Serenity Point

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 1 1 13 15
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Directions to Serenity Point

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
From the main parking area cross the creek and take the second road on the left for about 200 feet until reaching the first trailhead on the right. Follow the trail uphill and head left when the trail meets the cliff to meet up with this first group of routes on a nice overhanging face. Latitude 37.6422233582, Longitude -83.6805572510

Wall Sun: Morning



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Reptilian Brain Trad 5.10a
 
40
As the trail approaches the cliff, this short and steep hand crack can be found right of the main wall hosting the bolted lines. Steepness:

2

One Drop Sport 5.11d
 
65
This is the first bolted route encountered on the main wall and also the less featured. Tweaky moves on small edges and shallow pockets lead to a steeper and more relaxed, though slightly odd, finish. Steepness:
Tags
fun-1 : dynamic-1

3

Bon Voyage Sport 5.11d
 
55
Marked by glue-in bolts. This line takes on the golden wall with long reaches between bullet pockets. Steepness:

4

Return of the Mohan Sport 5.11d
 
55
The premier line of the area. The first ascentionist stated it was his best line since Tuskan Raider at Darkside. Fingery climbing on solid rock with just the right amount of holds to keep the grade moderate and the moves remarkable. Steepness:

5

Rising Hegemon Sport 5.11b
 
65
Although not the quality of its neighbors, this line serves as a fun warm up for the area. Begin with a few bolts of slightly friable rock to reach better stone above. Steepness:

5a

BCL Sport 5.11a
 
50
Start 10 ft right of Hammer Time. Pockets and jugs lead to enjoyable climbing on the upper arete. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : steep-1

6

Hammer Time Sport 5.11b
 
70
Just right of a flake leading to a thin seam begins this line. It is marked by a large nose flake feature near the top. A bit of creativity will gain you a no-hands rest here, which you may need for the crux run for the chains. A nearly unavoidable encounter with a big, scary hold awaits at the end. Steepness:

6a

Can't Touch This Sport 5.12b
 
70
Tackle a low boulder problem that will test your lock off strength as you reach for a high crimp and shorties may find that they can't touch this. Regain your composure and finish the route up on a series of fun yet pumpy roof pulls. Steepness:

7

Fodiqua Sport 5.9
 
80  
This line takes on the slab in the water streak. Rumor has it this will still be dirty in 3014. Remember though, dirt does not a bad route make. Steepness:

8

Malignant Sport 5.11a
 
90
What it lacks in cleanliness it makes up for with length. Thin edges lead to a small roof with a jug where you will probably be for awhile as you scope for holds above. Eventually you will realize there really aren't many so you should probably just quit wasting time and try something. Steepness:

9

Melanoma Mixed 5.10d
 
85
Begin in the chimney behind the pillar. Continue up the crack and eventually merge with Sundial near the top. Steepness:

10

Sundial Sport 5.11a
 
80
A magnificent face climb. Scramble to the top of the pillar with stemming and face holds to begin. Step out onto the face when ready for high quality and technical face climbing. The final section climbs the crack to the right of the last bolt. Clipping is possible with a good side-pull in the crack. Steepness:

11

Dirty Habit Sport 5.10d
 
85
This line begins just right of the blunt arete near the detached pillar. Due to the runoff expect a layer of dirt but don't let it chase you off! The holds are decent and the movement is great so it can still be a fun ride for a select few. Steepness:

12

Dancing Queen Sport 5.10b
 
60
Left of Dirty Habit is a pair of lines. This climbs the slab with a low crux. Dirty at this time but as with most lines it may clean up to be a decent line given the solidity of the rock. Steepness:

13

Linny Lu Sport 5.10a
 
55
Left of Dancing Queen is another low-angle line that will probably clean up well with age. Steepness:

Comments

1
tyler.yarbrough said on October 22nd, 2013
Is there a line that goes up that big "scoop" to the right of Hammer Time? Just from the photo it looks like a really cool feature, but it could be sandy choss.
2
Cromper said on October 23rd, 2013
Kinda choss mgoss below that feature. I'm sure eventually there will be a line there
3
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2013
haha sad but true
4
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2013
I thought The Red was world-class? Is this a joke?
5
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2014
I think I was on dancing queen, and broke off what too me was a critical left crimp above 4th bolt I believe ...might not be 10a anymore. Just a heads up.
6
pigsteak said on July 26th, 2014
any idea whose rope is hanging right of One Drop..been there a long time...