The Shipyard
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.
The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.
The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.
Rules of the PMRP and MFRP
Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:- Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
- All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
- Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
- Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
- No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
- No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
- Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
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Directions to The Shipyard
Park in the Flat Holler parking Lot. Walk west down the oil road about 20 yards to the bottom entrance of the Flat Holler Multi-Purpose Trail (MPT). At the 3rd hairpin turn on the MPT, look on your left for a shortcut to a different section of the MPT. Take the shortcut and continue down and left toward the creek. The trail will soon cross the creek on large creek stones and go up the other side. At the stay left at a small fork, continuing uphill toward the cliff line. Just as the trail turns left, you should see a small crag trail go right, toward the right section of cliff and the first group of climbs. There is a small trail that connects this section of cliff to the left section.
Wall Sun:
| Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | User Stars | Length | Picture |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
0
1 |
-1 | Poop Deck (WIP) | Sport | 26 5.11 |
|
0 0ft | 0 | |
|
1
2 |
-1 | Keelhaul (WIP) | Sport | 26 5.11 |
|
0 0ft | 0 | |
|
2
3 |
-1 | Avast Ye (WIP) | Sport | 29 5.11+ |
|
0 0ft | 0 | |
|
3
4 |
-1 | Castoff | Sport | 24 5.11a |
|
2.50 (8) | 65 65ft | 1 |
|
4
5 |
-1 | Boarding Pass | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
3.20 (10) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
5
6 |
-1 | Climb Aboard | Sport | 28 5.11d |
|
2.50 (2) | 65 65ft | 1 |
|
6
7 |
-1 | Davy Jones' Locker Direct | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
70 70ft | 0 | |
|
7
8 |
-1 | Davy Jones' Locker | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
3.00 (1) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
8
9 |
-1 | All Hands on Deck | Sport | 24 5.11a |
|
3.50 (2) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
9
10 |
-1 | Bow to Stern (CLOSED) | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
0 0ft | 0 | |
|
10
11 |
-1 | Uncharted Waters | Trad | 26 5.11 |
|
80 80ft | 0 | |
|
11
12 |
-1 | Break Neck Speed | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
4.00 (3) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
12
13 |
-1 | Beechcomber | Sport | 30 5.12- |
|
3.00 (1) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
13
14 |
-1 | Storming the Beech | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
3.25 (4) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
14
15 |
-1 | Dead Man Chest Hair | Trad | 11 5.8 |
|
4.00 (1) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
15
16 |
-1 | Jolly Roger aka Bess Booty | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
1.50 (4) | 55 55ft | 0 |
|
16
17 |
-1 | Batten Down the Hatches | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
2.67 (6) | 55 55ft | 0 |
|
17
18 |
-1 | Cabin Boy Fever | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
3.65 (17) | 55 55ft | 0 |
|
18
19 |
-1 | Sail | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
4.64 (22) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
19
20 |
-1 | Black Pearl | Sport | 28 5.11d |
|
3.00 (8) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
20
21 |
-1 | Capstan | Trad | 6 5.6 |
|
2.00 (1) | 45 45ft | 0 |
|
21
21a |
-1 | Kiss the Manta Ray | Sport | 11 5.8 |
|
2.67 (12) | 60 60ft | 0 |
|
22
22 |
-1 | Pay the Devil | Sport | 39 5.13b |
|
5.00 (3) | 65 65ft | 1 |
Comments
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Whoa.. you're green behind the ears!
How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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