The Shipyard

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The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve

The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.

The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.

The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.

Rules of the PMRP and MFRP

Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:

Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.

Grade	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.11	3	-	20	23

Directions to The Shipyard

This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.

Park in the Flat Holler parking Lot. Walk west down the oil road about 20 yards to the bottom entrance of the Flat Holler Multi-Purpose Trail (MPT). At the 3rd hairpin turn on the MPT, look on your left for a shortcut to a different section of the MPT. Take the shortcut and continue down and left toward the creek. The trail will soon cross the creek on large creek stones and go up the other side. At the stay left at a small fork, continuing uphill toward the cliff line. Just as the trail turns left, you should see a small crag trail go right, toward the right section of cliff and the first group of climbs. There is a small trail that connects this section of cliff to the left section.

Wall Sun:

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.

Route	Spray	Name	Type	Grade	User Stars	Length	Picture
0 1	-1	Poop Deck (WIP)	Sport	26 5.11		0 0ft	0
1 2	-1	Keelhaul (WIP)	Sport	26 5.11		0 0ft	0
2 3	-1	Avast Ye (WIP)	Sport	29 5.11+		0 0ft	0
3 4	-1	Castoff	Sport	21 5.10d	2.43 (7)	65 65ft	1
4 5	-1	Boarding Pass	Sport	25 5.11b	3.25 (8)	70 70ft	1
5 6	-1	Climb Aboard	Sport	28 5.11d	2.50 (2)	65 65ft	1
6 7	-1	Davy Jones' Locker Direct	Sport	32 5.12b		70 70ft	0
7 8	-1	Davy Jones' Locker	Sport	32 5.12b	3.00 (1)	70 70ft	0
8 9	-1	All Hands on Deck	Sport	24 5.11a	3.50 (2)	50 50ft	1
9 10	-1	Bow to Stern (CLOSED)	Sport	31 5.12a		0 0ft	0
10 11	-1	Uncharted Waters	Trad	26 5.11		80 80ft	0
11 12	-1	Break Neck Speed	Sport	27 5.11c	4.00 (3)	75 75ft	1
12 13	-1	Beechcomber	Sport	30 5.12-	3.00 (1)	50 50ft	0
13 14	-1	Storming the Beech	Sport	32 5.12b	3.50 (2)	50 50ft	0
14 15	-1	Dead Man Chest Hair	Trad	11 5.8	4.00 (1)	50 50ft	0
15 16	-1	Jolly Roger aka Bess Booty	Sport	27 5.11c	1.50 (4)	55 55ft	0
16 17	-1	Batten Down the Hatches	Sport	27 5.11c	2.60 (5)	55 55ft	0
17 18	-1	Cabin Boy Fever	Sport	25 5.11b	3.69 (16)	55 55ft	0
18 19	-1	Sail	Sport	32 5.12b	4.63 (19)	50 50ft	0
19 20	-1	Black Pearl	Sport	28 5.11d	3.00 (6)	50 50ft	0
20 21	-1	Capstan	Trad	6 5.6	2.00 (1)	45 45ft	0
21 21a	-1	Kiss the Manta Ray	Sport	11 5.8	2.44 (9)	60 60ft	0
22 22	-1	Pay the Devil	Sport	39 5.13b	5.00 (3)	65 65ft	1

Comments

5 comments {add your own comments}

XplosionOflaver said on July 30th, 2014

Big thanks to Blake and the plethora of people who helped build the trail here( last couple of jatd). It's a very cool wall, worth a visit!

Ascentionist said on September 21st, 2016

An easier and more direct approach is this: From the Flat Hollow Trailhead walk west along the gravel road. Take the first trail on the left after crossing the small stream and passing the big round rusty tank. This is the Flat Hollow Arch Trail. Follow the trail crossing the creek twice and just before the third crossing bear right and follow the trail to the bottom of an old logging/oil road. Follow the (right not left) road up the hill crossing a mountain bike trail until you can see the cliffline on the left. Follow the upper trail left or right to reach the routes.

Anonymous said on June 16th, 2018

anyone know about the heady looking trad climbs to the far right? There is a vague crack system that peeters out at the top and has some anchors way up there..

KhaoticKlimber said on April 15th, 2019

Climbed a random, unknown route here a couple of years ago for the hell of it. It began on the right side of an arete with a slabby boulder problem start, followed by a flaky bulge section with fragile holds about three bolts up, immediately followed by a super blank section that gave way to easier, less-than-vertical slab to the anchors. Wet, chossy, and covered in lichen. Would guess a grade anywhere from 10a to 10c. Sound familiar to anyone? None of these route sound like it.

climbhigh said on June 19th, 2019

I bolted a few routes back past the shipyard. some really fun aretes and slabs. im sure nature has took back over and need plenty of cleaning again. some good trad back there as well.

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

The Shipyard

The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve

Rules of the PMRP and MFRP

Directions to The Shipyard

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