COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

The Shipyard

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 3 - 20 23

Directions to The Shipyard

This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Park in the Flat Holler parking Lot. Walk west down the oil road about 20 yards to the bottom entrance of the Flat Holler Multi-Purpose Trail (MPT). At the 3rd hairpin turn on the MPT, look on your left for a shortcut to a different section of the MPT. Take the shortcut and continue down and left toward the creek. The trail will soon cross the creek on large creek stones and go up the other side. At the stay left at a small fork, continuing uphill toward the cliff line. Just as the trail turns left, you should see a small crag trail go right, toward the right section of cliff and the first group of climbs. There is a small trail that connects this section of cliff to the left section.

Wall Sun:

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture


Poop Deck (WIP) Sport 5.11
Jump start to a very thin headwall. Steepness:


Keelhaul (WIP) Sport 5.11
Climb the scoop feature. Steepness:


Avast Ye (WIP) Sport 5.11+
Crack(ish) climbing, hard face moves, then feature climbing to the anchor. Steepness:


Castoff Sport 5.11a
Begin on Boarding Pass and split right. Steepness:


Boarding Pass Sport 5.11b
Entry admission to the area. If you don't like how this one climbs, stay ashore. Steepness:


Climb Aboard Sport 5.11d
Nerd gate at its finest. Very hard/tricky start. Cruxy middle, and a crux guarding the anchors. You're not done until you're fully on the ship. Steepness:


Davy Jones' Locker Direct Sport 5.12b
V8 start to Davy Jones' Locker. Steepness:


Davy Jones' Locker Sport 5.12b
Share first section of All Hands and split right. Climb some dirty slopers and a couple broken shelfs to one of the finest sequences in the Red, then tackle the crux. Steepness:


All Hands on Deck Sport 5.11a
All hands, no feet. Really fuzzy, so bring a brush until it gets traffic. Steepness:


Bow to Stern (CLOSED) Sport 5.12a
First pitch SUCKS. Second pitch is better, with two ways to surmount the roof. Careful of rope drag. Steepness:


Uncharted Waters Trad 5.11
Connect the weaknesses to the top. Steepness:


Break Neck Speed Sport 5.11c
11b to the second to last bolt, then requires some try hard. Steepness:


Beechcomber Sport 5.12-
Start on steep pockets behind Storming the Beech, move up and right to a thin section. "Stay Off the Beech." Steepness:


Storming the Beech Sport 5.12b
Back to back boulder problems to a couple of cool sequences. Steepness:


Dead Man Chest Hair Trad 5.8
The Corpse lives, and this evidence of his appearance. Steepness:


Jolly Roger aka Bess Booty Sport 5.11c
Same start as Batten, then a few moves near Dead Man Chest Hair, then steep pockets to a big move. Steepness:


Batten Down the Hatches Sport 5.11c
Bouldery, semi-choss start to a long move, then pockets. Steepness:


Cabin Boy Fever Sport 5.11b
Warmup of the wall. Steepness:


Sail Sport 5.12b
Perfect pockets. Steepness:


Black Pearl Sport 5.11d
Start on Sail, traverse left bypassing really fuzzy rock. Long moves on good rock. A bit more crimpy than the others on this wall. Steepness:


Capstan Trad 5.6
Wander the "front" side of the bow, make one technical move, pass some sandy rock, and deal with lots of rope drag. Steepness:


Kiss the Manta Ray Sport 5.8
All day shade. This sport route climbs up the side of the pinnacle that faces the main wall. The line traverses left so that it ends at the summit, which you can straddle or stand on for your Facebook profile picture. You may want to extend the draws on a few bolts to help with rope drag, and mind the potential for a swinging fall if the second blows the easy moves at the top. Steepness:


Pay the Devil Sport 5.13b
One of the most striking lines in the Red. Named for the lower part of a ships stern. Steepness:


XplosionOflaver said on July 30th, 2014
Big thanks to Blake and the plethora of people who helped build the trail here( last couple of jatd). It's a very cool wall, worth a visit!
Ascentionist said on September 21st, 2016
An easier and more direct approach is this: From the Flat Hollow Trailhead walk west along the gravel road. Take the first trail on the left after crossing the small stream and passing the big round rusty tank. This is the Flat Hollow Arch Trail. Follow the trail crossing the creek twice and just before the third crossing bear right and follow the trail to the bottom of an old logging/oil road. Follow the (right not left) road up the hill crossing a mountain bike trail until you can see the cliffline on the left. Follow the upper trail left or right to reach the routes.
Anonymous said on June 16th, 2018
anyone know about the heady looking trad climbs to the far right? There is a vague crack system that peeters out at the top and has some anchors way up there..
KhaoticKlimber said on April 15th, 2019
Climbed a random, unknown route here a couple of years ago for the hell of it. It began on the right side of an arete with a slabby boulder problem start, followed by a flaky bulge section with fragile holds about three bolts up, immediately followed by a super blank section that gave way to easier, less-than-vertical slab to the anchors. Wet, chossy, and covered in lichen. Would guess a grade anywhere from 10a to 10c. Sound familiar to anyone? None of these route sound like it.
climbhigh said on June 19th, 2019
I bolted a few routes back past the shipyard. some really fun aretes and slabs. im sure nature has took back over and need plenty of cleaning again. some good trad back there as well.