Chaos
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.
The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.
The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.
Rules of the PMRP and MFRP
Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:- Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
- All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
- Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
- Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
- No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
- No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
- Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
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Directions to Chaos
Chaos is the section of cliff to the right of Serenity Point and left of Alcatraz. The rock is high quality and varies from vertical to slightly overhanging with some sections such as the Power Grid clocking in at steep. As with most north facing cliffs in the Red the rock can be covered in powdery lichen so bring a brush. From Serenity Point walk right along the trail until reaching a point where it heads downhill skirting the cliff. Chaos begins with the first cluster of routes on a vertical wall capped by a high roof where Live with a Curse can be found. It's also possible to reach Chaos without walking up the trail to Coopers Cove and Serenity Point. To approach this way continue walking along the main dirt road as if going to Highlands or Fruit Wall. Eventually an old logging road angles uphill to the left. Follow this road which branches to a trail leading uphill and ending just beneath Mike Mulligan. The wall faces north to northeast. 37.6417N -83.6802 W
Wall Sun: Shade
| Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | User Stars | Length | Picture |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
0
1 |
-1 | Die with a Blessing | Sport | 21 5.10d |
|
3.38 (34) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
1
2 |
-1 | Live with a Curse | Sport | 35 5.12d |
|
4.30 (10) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
2
3 |
-1 | DNA | Sport | 39 5.13b |
|
3.00 (2) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
3
3a |
-1 | Philosophical Progression | Trad | 14 5.9 |
|
2.71 (7) | 60 60ft | 0 |
|
4
4 |
-1 | King Ducky | Sport | 5 5.5 |
|
2.41 (37) | 40 40ft | 1 |
|
5
5 |
-1 | Dyslexics Untie! | Sport | 8 5.7 |
|
2.18 (39) | 40 40ft | 1 |
|
6
6 |
-1 | Swamp Gator | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
4.12 (33) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
7
7 |
-1 | Lithuanian Princess | Sport | 17 5.10a |
|
3.56 (64) | 40 40ft | 1 |
|
8
7a |
-1 | Raise Hell | Sport | 18 5.10b |
|
1.00 (3) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
9
8 |
-1 | Spider Monkey | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
2.71 (34) | 45 45ft | 1 |
|
10
9 |
-1 | Mike Mulligan | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
3.07 (14) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
11
10 |
-1 | Mary Anne | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
2.68 (19) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
12
11 |
-1 | Some Assembly Required | Sport | 6 5.6 |
|
2.55 (29) | 30 30ft | 0 |
|
13
12 |
-1 | Teacher's Pet | Trad | 18 5.10b |
|
2.44 (9) | 30 30ft | 1 |
|
14
13 |
-1 | Slabalicious | Sport | 20 5.10c |
|
3.08 (26) | 25 25ft | 0 |
|
15
14 |
-1 | Broken Dreams | Trad | 11 5.8 |
|
3.20 (10) | 20 20ft | 1 |
|
16
15 |
-1 | Left Coast | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
2.58 (12) | 55 55ft | 0 |
|
17
16 |
-1 | Funky Toe | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
2.80 (5) | 65 65ft | 0 |
|
18
16a |
-1 | The 2nd Law | Trad | 18 5.10b |
|
3.00 (1) | 40 40ft | 1 |
|
19
17 |
-1 | She Rolls Gangster Style | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
3.29 (7) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
20
18 |
-1 | Ride the Pony | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
70 70ft | 0 | |
|
21
19 |
-1 | House of Mirrors | Sport | 34 5.12c |
|
3.00 (3) | 75 75ft | 0 |
|
22
19a |
-1 | Morla | Trad | 21 5.10d |
|
3.00 (1) | 100 100ft | 0 |
|
23
20 |
-1 | OCR | Sport | -1 Grade Unknown |
|
50 50ft | 0 | |
|
24
21 |
-1 | 9-Volt | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
2.00 (1) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
25
22 |
-1 | Electric Dong | Sport | 35 5.12d |
|
3.67 (3) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
26
23 |
-1 | Wolverine (open project) | Sport | 40 5.13 |
|
4.00 (1) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
27
24 |
-1 | Switch | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
3.74 (19) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
28
25 |
-1 | Resistor | Sport | 34 5.12c |
|
3.73 (11) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
29
26 |
-1 | Blackout | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
1.80 (5) | 50 50ft | 0 |
Please select a grade
| Climber | Lead | Attempts | Date | PM Climber |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Climber | Date Projected | PM |
|---|---|---|
Whoa.. you're green behind the ears!
How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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