Alcatraz
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.
The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.
The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.
Rules of the PMRP and MFRP
Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:- Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
- All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
- Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
- Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
- No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
- No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
- Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
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Directions to Alcatraz
From the main parking area cross Hell creek using the footbridge and follow the road past two main turnoffs on the left, the second of which leads to the Bowman Fork climbing areas. Continue along the main road, passing a narrow dirt road on the left which is the trail for Chaos. Shortly after that you will see a short road on the right which is the trailhead for Highlands. Almost directly across from this is a wider road than the one leading to Chaos which angles uphill to the left. This is the road you want to follow to reach Alcatraz. Follow the road until you see an obvious very steep pocketed wall beginning on a wide ledge about 4 feet up. That is the Power Grid section of Chaos wall. Continue along the road and shortly you will locate a steep trail leading straight to the short and striking line, Silent Circle, which marks the beginning of Alcatraz.
Wall Sun: Shade
| Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | User Stars | Length | Picture |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
0
1 |
-1 | Silent Circle | Sport | 35 5.12d |
|
3.40 (5) | 45 45ft | 1 |
|
1
2 |
-1 | Nerves of Steel | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
2.25 (4) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
2
3 |
-1 | Jericho | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
3.00 (2) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
3
4 |
-1 | Black Feather | Sport | 28 5.11d |
|
3.00 (2) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
4
5 |
-1 | Blake's arête | Toprope | -1 Grade Unknown |
|
5.00 (1) | 25 25ft | 0 |
|
5
6 |
-1 | Matrix (Open Project) | Sport | 47 5.14 |
|
45 45ft | 1 | |
|
6
7 |
-1 | Nightmare in the Beauty | Sport | 34 5.12c |
|
4.33 (3) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
7
8 |
-1 | Cursing Kirk | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
3.50 (6) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
8
9 |
-1 | Birdman | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
3.67 (9) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
9
10 |
-1 | Creepy Karpis | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
1.67 (6) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
10
11 |
-1 | Dope on a Rope | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
3.70 (23) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
11
12 |
-1 | Traumatized Turtle | Sport | 15 5.9+ |
|
2.25 (12) | 55 55ft | 1 |
|
12
13 |
-1 | Regulation Number Five | Sport | 34 5.12c |
|
3.00 (1) | 55 55ft | 1 |
|
13
14 |
-1 | Scruff Puppy | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
4.00 (4) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
14
15 |
-1 | Square Bob Sponge Pants | Sport | 24 5.11a |
|
2.75 (4) | 80 80ft | 1 |
|
15
16 |
-1 | Slingo | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
3.50 (6) | 80 80ft | 0 |
|
16
17 |
-1 | Reign of Terror (Project) | Sport | -1 Grade Unknown |
|
85 85ft | 0 | |
|
17
18 |
-1 | Fatal Vision | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
4.80 (15) | 85 85ft | 1 |
|
18
19 |
-1 | The Motherland | Sport | 35 5.12d |
|
70 70ft | 0 | |
|
19
20 |
-1 | Poking a Dead Frog | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
3.00 (3) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
20
21 |
-1 | Red Fern | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
3.17 (6) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
21
22 |
-1 | Man with a Wooden Leg | Sport | 20 5.10c |
|
2.81 (16) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
22
23 |
-1 | Sweet Petunia | Sport | 21 5.10d |
|
2.27 (15) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
23
24 |
-1 | Flight Risk | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
3.00 (2) | 95 95ft | 1 |
Please select a grade
| Climber | Lead | Attempts | Date | PM Climber |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Climber | Date Projected | PM |
|---|---|---|
Whoa.. you're green behind the ears!
How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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