Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 - - 23 24
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Directions to Alcatraz

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
From the main parking area cross Hell creek using the footbridge and follow the road past two main turnoffs on the left, the second of which leads to the Bowman Fork climbing areas. Continue along the main road, passing a narrow dirt road on the left which is the trail for Chaos. Shortly after that you will see a short road on the right which is the trailhead for Highlands. Almost directly across from this is a wider road than the one leading to Chaos which angles uphill to the left. This is the road you want to follow to reach Alcatraz. Follow the road until you see an obvious very steep pocketed wall beginning on a wide ledge about 4 feet up. That is the Power Grid section of Chaos wall. Continue along the road and shortly you will locate a steep trail leading straight to the short and striking line, Silent Circle, which marks the beginning of Alcatraz.

Wall Sun: Shade



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Silent Circle Sport 5.12d
 
45
From the power grid walk back down to the road and continue right along the wall looking for a short trail after about 100 feet. This trail leads to a nice overhanging section of cliff which unfortunately is characterized by swampy ground at the base. It's short but promises to pack a punch that hits you square in the eye right at the chains. Steepness:

2

Nerves of Steel Sport 5.11b
 
70
Begin as for Silent Circle but cut right and swing up the wall to a high ledge. Surmount the roof and finish with a couple bolts worth of airy edge climbing. Steepness:

3

Jericho Sport 5.11c
 
50
Don't let the appearance of the start keep you away from this one. Climb up to a triangular roof at mid height. Finagle a rest then exit into the wickedly cool crux. Steepness:

4

Black Feather Sport 5.11d
 
50  
The last route on the right before the arete for this section of the wall. Start with a couple of dirty moves, which quickly merge with power pulls on deep pockets culminating in a potentially desperate toss to a small hueco. As with the other lines on the wall if you can deal with the dirty start you will be rewarded with some great movement. Steepness:

5

Blake's arÍte Toprope Grade Unknown
 
25  
A short toprope problem on the arete right of Black Feather. Equipped by Blake Bowling. Steepness:

6

Matrix (Open Project) Sport 5.14
 
45
Right of the previous group of lines, the wall takes on a striking angular nature. This open project awaits the no-holds body English masters. Equipped by Kipp Trummel in 2014. Steepness:

7

Nightmare in the Beauty Sport 5.12c
 
70
Just around the corner from Matrix is what may be one of the nicest looking walls in the area. The climbing on this wall holds up to its beauty. However this line could be a nightmare for the less creative climber in us. Begin with high tips in a crack and toss up to a horn. The rest is up to your imagination. Enjoy. Steepness:

8

Cursing Kirk Sport 5.11c
 
70  
It's a reachy one! Lobster claw pinching buys you a sit down rest on the ledge. The sequel requires some endurance and enough juice to make a couple of difficult long pulls. Go big or go small at the upper crux. Steepness:

9

Birdman Sport 5.11c
 
70  
Sequential underclinging and sidepulling gets you to the sit-down ledge. Mostly decent holds minus an obvious teeny tiny crimpy cruxy up high. Steepness:

10

Creepy Karpis Sport 5.11c
 
70
This line was already in place long before the land purchase and lacked a few bolts critical for keeping the climber off the ground and the ledge. It's safer now but still wanders a bit. Regardless it's another good line if you can pull the initial reachy moves. Steepness:

11

Dope on a Rope Sport 5.11b
 
70
The juggier and steeper of the lines on this wall. Reach high for a deep horizontal to pull over a small roof and into a quick pockety section. After that, enjoy the fun flow of good old fashioned Red River steep jug hauling complete with a no-hands double knee bar rest. Remember though, another trait of those old fashioned jug hauls is to spit in your face right at the chains. Steepness:

12

Traumatized Turtle Sport 5.9+
 
55
Continue right along the cliffline for about 150 feet to meet up with a trio of routes on a geometric face. This is the first on the left and follows large ledges up the low angled face. Steepness:

13

Regulation Number Five Sport 5.12c
 
55
Begin as for Traumatized Turtle but exit right near the first bolt. Mantel up to a distinct crux toss to a decent edge using the best foot smear you can find. 5.9 moves lead to a perplexing thin tips crack finish. Steepness:

14

Scruff Puppy Sport 5.12a
 
60
A sequential and difficult face climb leads to a right angling mega steep pump delivering arete. Pull up into a pod making use of sketchy looking but solid orange blobby rock. The line was originally going to end at the second set of chains but deemed too difficult for old guys. Steepness:

15

Square Bob Sponge Pants Sport 5.11a
 
80
Continuing along the trail takes you to a pair of long lines just right of a crack and before the trail heads downhill to a flat spot. This begins either in the crack or on the face beneath the bolt. Cruxy movement leads through enough rests to keep the grade moderate. An excellent roof pull guards the chains. Steepness:

16

Slingo Sport 5.11b
 
80  
Just right of Square Bob is another long journey through off-balance twisted movement up a striking arete with some extra spice thrown in. Think Prime Directive. Steepness:

17

Reign of Terror (Project) Sport Grade Unknown
 
85  
Head down from the previous lines to another pair of lines clocking in somewhat harder. This is the left line. Equipped by Kipp Trummel, 2014. Steepness:

18

Fatal Vision Sport 5.11c
 
85
Begin in a thin flake system and climb the long face and arete using every trick in the book. Sneak around to the right if you are feeling perplexed. One of the better lines on this section of cliff. Steepness:

19

The Motherland Sport 5.12d
 
70  
This odd route begins on the arete right of Fatal Vision but actually climbs to a ledge about 30 feet up where it's possible to walk back down to where you started so you can pull your rope and not do the rest of the route. Steepness:

20

Poking a Dead Frog Sport 5.11c
 
60
Just around the corner from Fatal Vision and right of a gorgeous corridor is a tall wall with several lines. This is the first on the left and begins on a boulder. A sequential array of slopers eases up long enough to prepare you for the vicious crimps at top. Glue ins. Steepness:

21

Red Fern Sport 5.11c
 
70
This quality line begins on the same boulder as Dead Frog. Reach for a sloping ledge at the start and pop up into a small hueco for some great technical yet pumpy climbing. Steepness:

22

Man with a Wooden Leg Sport 5.10c
 
70  
There are two lines exiting the large orange hueco roof blob. This is the left one. Traverse a dirty shelf to reach the roof and pull on precarious jugs to get onto the face where the fun begins. A variety of underclings, crimps, and high steps make this route fairly technical but it still overhangs enough to deliver a nice pump. Glue ins. Steepness:

23

Sweet Petunia Sport 5.10d
 
70
Traverses the same dirty shelf to start but begins a bit further right. A bit more sustained than Wooden Leg with a much harder crux exiting the hueco up high. Steepness:

24

Flight Risk Sport 5.12a
 
95
Walk down from the previous group of lines and through a marshy alcove to reach this line. Tough moves with decent rests make up the first half while a more sustained section takes you to the chains. Be sure to use a full 60m rope. Steepness:

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