Scotch Wall
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.
The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.
The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.
Rules of the PMRP and MFRP
Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:- Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
- All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
- Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
- Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
- No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
- No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
- Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
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Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | Length | Picture |
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1 |
-1 | Shooglenifty | Trad | 5.6 |
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60 | 0 |
Not so appealing trad climb 50 feet right of Bonnie Wee. |
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2 |
-1 | Bonnie Wee Bairn | Sport | 5.11a |
|
60 | 0 |
This is the first line encountered on the right side of the main, golden buttress when approaching the wall from the lower oil road. It begins with a few moves on a dirty slab then passes through a couple of tricky moves on more vertical terrain. Great, mellow climbing on larger holds makes up the rest of the line. |
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3 |
-1 | Kilt or be Kilt | Sport | 5.10d |
|
60 | 1 |
Begin just right of a dihedral. Balancy climbing dead ends at a stopper crux move after which you can get the warmup you were looking for. |
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4 |
-1 | Harry Wrags | Sport | 5.12a |
|
60 | 1 |
15 feet of easy crack climbing (cam optional) leads to a ledge from which you can stick clip the first bolt. Stick clipping the second bolt from here is recommended too. A brutal boulder problem over the roof results in easy face climbing on large, solid holds. |
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4a |
-1 | Bushes of Love | Sport | 5.11d |
|
45 | 1 |
The gorgeous arete and face left of Harry Wrags. Belay up on the ledge system, starting with steep moves off a scary-looking chained-on boulder and a short powerful crux on bullet orange rock. |
Steepness: |
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5 |
-1 | Glenmorangie | Sport | 5.10d |
|
55 | 1 |
From the previous few lines head left and scramble up to the ledge using a hand rope. Just around the corner is a vertical wall hosting several bolted lines. This is the best of the group and begins on the corner. |
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6 |
-1 | Tobermory | Sport | 5.11a |
|
50 | 0 |
Tiptoe and reach up the face passing the right side of a hueco mid height. |
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7 |
-1 | Glenfiddich | Sport | 5.11a |
|
50 | 1 |
Crispy, difficult moves between bolts 1 and 2 lead to better edge climbing. |
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8 |
-1 | Auchentoshan | Sport | 5.10c |
|
50 | 0 |
This is the last line at this time on the left side of this section of the wall. Expect more of the same. |
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Please select a grade
Climber | Lead | Attempts | Date | PM Climber |
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Climber | Date Projected | PM |
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Whoa.. you're green behind the ears!
How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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