Scotch Wall

{directions} | {routes} | {comments}

The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve

The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.

The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.

The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.

Rules of the PMRP and MFRP

Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:

Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.

Grade	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.10	1	-	8	9

Directions to Scotch Wall

This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.

Walk right from the main Highlands wall to this vertical section of wall hosting the next several lines.

Wall Sun: Shade

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.

Route	Spray	Name	Type	Grade	Length	Picture
1	-1	Shooglenifty	Trad	5.6	60	0
Not so appealing trad climb 50 feet right of Bonnie Wee.			Steepness:
2	-1	Bonnie Wee Bairn	Sport	5.11a	60	0
This is the first line encountered on the right side of the main, golden buttress when approaching the wall from the lower oil road. It begins with a few moves on a dirty slab then passes through a couple of tricky moves on more vertical terrain. Great, mellow climbing on larger holds makes up the rest of the line.			Steepness:
3	-1	Kilt or be Kilt	Sport	5.10d	60	1
Begin just right of a dihedral. Balancy climbing dead ends at a stopper crux move after which you can get the warmup you were looking for.			Steepness:		Tags bouldery-1
4	-1	Harry Wrags	Sport	5.12a	60	1
15 feet of easy crack climbing (cam optional) leads to a ledge from which you can stick clip the first bolt. Stick clipping the second bolt from here is recommended too. A brutal boulder problem over the roof results in easy face climbing on large, solid holds.			Steepness:
4a	-1	Bushes of Love	Sport	5.11d	45	1
The gorgeous arete and face left of Harry Wrags. Belay up on the ledge system, starting with steep moves off a scary-looking chained-on boulder and a short powerful crux on bullet orange rock.			Steepness:
5	-1	Glenmorangie	Sport	5.10d	55	1
From the previous few lines head left and scramble up to the ledge using a hand rope. Just around the corner is a vertical wall hosting several bolted lines. This is the best of the group and begins on the corner.			Steepness:
6	-1	Tobermory	Sport	5.11a	50	0
Tiptoe and reach up the face passing the right side of a hueco mid height.			Steepness:
7	-1	Glenfiddich	Sport	5.11a	50	1
Crispy, difficult moves between bolts 1 and 2 lead to better edge climbing.			Steepness:
8	-1	Auchentoshan	Sport	5.10c	50	0
This is the last line at this time on the left side of this section of the wall. Expect more of the same.			Steepness:

Comments

2 comments {add your own comments}

Anonymous said on November 12th, 2014

Why is it that the actual scotch named routes aren't at the scotch wall. I know, I know…scotch is simply a derivative of the whiskey category - matured at least three years in oak barrels in scotland…but seriously what gives? I'm not mad, i'm just disappointed.

JR said on May 23rd, 2016

Route 2,3,4,4a are pm sun. Route 5,6,7,8 are shady.

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

Scotch Wall

The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve

Rules of the PMRP and MFRP

Directions to Scotch Wall

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