Velo Crag
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.
The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.
The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.
Rules of the PMRP and MFRP
Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:- Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
- All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
- Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
- Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
- No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
- No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
- Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
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Directions to Velo Crag
Approach: To get to Velo Crag, first park in the Flat Holler parking lot (see Throwback Crag for directions). Then walk back in the direction you drove in from, and turn right up the old oil road. Continue uphill on the road until it ends, then find the trail to the wall on your left. In two more minutes you should come to the wall underneath On Beyond Velodrome, with it’s large hueco about halfway up the wall. Most of the crag faces west to northwest, and gets morning shade. Nothing stays dry in more than a light rain. Velo Pinnacles: To get to routes one and two, look for a rough trail that cuts down left and away from the wall in the vicinity of Ultegra. Contour around the pinnacles until you go right and squeeze through a small gap in the rock. Scramble through a few more squeezes between boulders until you find the bolts of Lighting Rod Arete. Old People Are Awesome is around the corner and to the left, in the big chimney where the two pinnacles touch.
Wall Sun: Afternoon sun
| Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | User Stars | Length | Picture |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
0
1 |
-1 | Lighting Rod Arete | Sport | 20 5.10c |
|
4.73 (51) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
1
2 |
-1 | Old People Are Awesome | Trad | 11 5.8 |
|
1.33 (3) | 60 60ft | 0 |
|
2
3 |
-1 | Krypton | Trad | 8 5.7 |
|
2.00 (6) | 60 60ft | 0 |
|
3
3a |
-1 | Spoke Junkies | Trad | 5 5.5 |
|
2.17 (6) | 60 60ft | 0 |
|
4
3b |
-1 | False Flat | Trad | 12 5.8+ |
|
3.00 (1) | 78 78ft | 1 |
|
5
3c |
-1 | Riding Recumbent | Trad | 20 5.10c |
|
4.00 (2) | 65 65ft | 1 |
|
6
3d |
-1 | Cock Rotter's Beartrap | Mixed | 17 5.10a |
|
4.00 (1) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
7
3e |
-1 | Beach Cruiser | Trad | 12 5.8+ |
|
1.33 (3) | 60 60ft | 0 |
|
8
4 |
-1 | Ultegra | Sport | 17 5.10a |
|
3.19 (36) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
9
5 |
-1 | Dura-Ace | Sport | 12 5.8+ |
|
3.78 (41) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
10
6 |
-1 | Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm | Trad | 14 5.9 |
|
2.93 (14) | 85 85ft | 1 |
|
11
7 |
-1 | Lanterne Rouge | Sport | 15 5.9+ |
|
3.59 (39) | 80 80ft | 1 |
|
12
8 |
-1 | A Cat Amongst the Pigeons | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
3.25 (12) | 75 75ft | 0 |
|
13
9 |
-1 | On Beyond Velodrome | Trad | 34 5.12c |
|
4.00 (1) | 90 90ft | 1 |
|
14
10 |
-1 | Anchors with no route | Toprope | -1 Unknown |
|
0 0ft | 0 | |
|
15
11 |
-1 | The Podium | Trad | 20 5.10c |
|
4.25 (4) | 95 95ft | 0 |
|
16
12 |
-1 | Unbolted Route with Jump Start | Toprope | -1 Unknown |
|
0 0ft | 0 | |
|
17
13 |
-1 | A Spot of Bother | Trad | 26 5.11 |
|
100 100ft | 0 | |
|
18
14 |
-1 | My Quads Are Too Big | Trad | 25 5.11b |
|
4.00 (3) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
19
15 |
-1 | Real Girls Don't Pumptrack | Sport | 20 5.10c |
|
3.78 (23) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
20
15a |
-1 | Lichen the Bikin | Trad | 11 5.8 |
|
3.67 (3) | 80 80ft | 1 |
|
21
16 |
-1 | The Century | Sport | 20 5.10c |
|
3.96 (24) | 85 85ft | 1 |
|
22
17 |
-1 | Double Century | Sport | 28 5.11d |
|
3.67 (3) | 80 80ft | 0 |
|
23
18 |
-1 | Summer Solstice | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
80 80ft | 1 | |
|
24
19 |
-1 | Unfinished Route | Toprope | -1 Unknown |
|
80 80ft | 0 | |
|
25
20 |
-1 | Bottom Bracket | Trad | 14 5.9 |
|
3.33 (3) | 50 50ft | 1 |
Comments
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Whoa.. you're green behind the ears!
How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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