Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 13 1 9 26
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Directions to Velo Crag

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Approach: To get to Velo Crag, first park in the Flat Holler parking lot (see Throwback Crag for directions). Then walk back in the direction you drove in from, and turn right up the old oil road. Continue uphill on the road until it ends, then find the trail to the wall on your left. In two more minutes you should come to the wall underneath On Beyond Velodrome, with itís large hueco about halfway up the wall. Most of the crag faces west to northwest, and gets morning shade. Nothing stays dry in more than a light rain. Velo Pinnacles: To get to routes one and two, look for a rough trail that cuts down left and away from the wall in the vicinity of Ultegra. Contour around the pinnacles until you go right and squeeze through a small gap in the rock. Scramble through a few more squeezes between boulders until you find the bolts of Lighting Rod Arete. Old People Are Awesome is around the corner and to the left, in the big chimney where the two pinnacles touch.

Wall Sun: Afternoon sun



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Lighting Rod Arete Sport 5.10c
 
70
Afternoon sun. The striking arete on the northwest corner of the pinnacle. Stick clip the first and brave a bit of choss down low, then enjoy thoughtful and balancey climbing to the top. Gets some late-afternoon sun. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-1

2

Old People Are Awesome Trad 5.8
 
60  
Stays shady. Climb the chimney and offwidth that separates the two pinnacles on the north side. Top out, enjoy the view, wonder what the steel rod embedded in the pinnacle was for, and rap from chains. Steepness:

3

Krypton Trad 5.7
 
60
Morning sun. To get to this route, go through the gap between the main wall of Velo crag and the pinnacle, then go to your left. Climb the dirty offwidth that starts to the left of the cave on the east side of the pinnacle. After you get through the crack, traverse right to a cool mantel move, then bushwhack through shrubbery to the top. Rap from tree, or jump over a chimney to the adjacent pinnacle and rap from chains above Old People Are Awesome. Steepness:

3a

Spoke Junkies Trad 5.5
 
60
Climb the crack above the cave right of Krypton. No hard moves if you think about it. Steepness:

3b

False Flat Trad 5.8+
 
78
Proceed to the climber's left from Ultegra, follow the main wall around to the right for about 80 m to find a thin crack that widens above a small platform. Gain the platform and look right for a finger-size horizontal placement. When the crack ends head up and right to a bushy shelf with great protection. There is finger-sized gear above, will need an extended 2"-cam in the hueco under the hemlock. Rap from the hemlock--trunk is visible from ground. Gear: a few 24" slings, double rack 0-#3. Steepness:

3c

Riding Recumbent Trad 5.10c
 
65
Proceed to the climber's left from Ultegra; turn right along the main wall; pass False Flat. Walk along the cliff following a trail leading around a large detached monolith. Keeping the wall to your right, soon you will reach a left-facing and right-facing pair of closely-spaced dihedrals that merge 35 ft up into an acute dihedral which is capped by a roof and a 15-ft crack. Begin in the left dihedral; at some point in the roof you'll be looking at your feet riding recumbent. Pull over the roof and clip chain anchors on the headwall. Gear: a few 12-in and 24-in slings, double rack 0-#3, #4 and #5 for the roof. Steepness:

3d

Cock Rotter's Beartrap Mixed 5.10a
 
75
Just left around the arete of Riding Recumbent find this dramatic, overhanging finger crack in a left-facing dihedral at [37.64527, -83.71685]. It appears quite a bit more difficult than the experiential grade. Move through 4 bolts to a stance to place a bomber, hand-sized horizontal cam. Stem; push; and mantel the dihedral overhang with nothing below you but the deck! Steepness:

3e

Beach Cruiser Trad 5.8+
 
60  
?Fifty feet left of Riding Recumbent. Climb the dihedral to a sandy ledge. Gear: standard rack up to BD #4. Steepness:

4

Ultegra Sport 5.10a
 
75
The farthest left route on the main wall of Velo Crag. Steepness:

5

Dura-Ace Sport 5.8+
 
75
Like the route to its left, but a bit better and a bit easier. Very enjoyable vertical climbing. Steepness:

6

Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm Trad 5.9
 
85
The wide dihedral to the right of Dura-Ace has a fun roof crux midway up. Steepness:

7

Lanterne Rouge Sport 5.9+
 
80
This sport route climbs the arete and face to the right of Eddie Merckx Gets a Perm. Steepness:

8

A Cat Amongst the Pigeons Sport 5.12a
 
75  
Equipped by Matt Tackett. Pull a bouldery start, then swim up easy horizontals to a big move. Work up the small flake system then get technical to tackle the opposing micro-dihedrals that guard the path to the chains. Steepness:

9

On Beyond Velodrome Trad 5.12c
 
90
Gear: small cams up to #3 BD, Stoppers. Morning shade. Start in the back of the dihedral and work your way up and out to the arete. Work up easy terrain until you encounter a steep bit of 5.11 guarding the entrance to the velodrome hueco. Once in the hueco, plug a #3 in the roof and rest up. When you feel ready to venture beyond the velodrome, crank up and out through some tough boulder problems with edges, locks, and hidden pockets. Steepness:

10

Anchors with no route Toprope Unknown
 
0  
Might be worth bolting Steepness:

11

The Podium Trad 5.10c
 
95  
Gear: cams at least up to BD #4. Itís a bit dirty and a bit intimidating, but it is incredibly bad ass. If you make it through the long, overhanging dihedrals and the roof crux, then you are too. Steepness:

12

Unbolted Route with Jump Start Toprope Unknown
 
0  
Might be worth bolting. Steepness:

13

A Spot of Bother Trad 5.11
 
100  
This flake and face climb caused a ďspot of botherĒ about whether or not to bolt it. If you donít like it spicy, you might feel a bit bothered yourself. Steepness:

14

My Quads Are Too Big Trad 5.11b
 
70
Gear: fingers to hands. No excuses if it spits you off. This splitter crack angles a bit right and shares a finish with Real Girls Donít Pumptrack. Enjoy excellent jams and locks to a bit of face climbing at the top. You can clip the last two bolts of the sport route if youíre so inclined. Steepness:

15

Real Girls Don't Pumptrack Sport 5.10c
 
70
This left-leaning arete requires some balance and pulls on small holds. Steepness:

15a

Lichen the Bikin Trad 5.8
 
80
Find a tight dihedral 50 ft. left of The Century; thereís neat looking arched thin crack coming in from the climbers right. Climb straight up the dihedral; gear up to #6BD, double rack with a few 12" and one 24" sling; save a few hand-sized pieces for the top. Rap from a solid tree after top out about 10 or 15 ft. straight back from the top of the crack. The view is awesome. Steepness:

16

The Century Sport 5.10c
 
85
Fight your way through a chossy first few moves to reach excellent rock. Power through overhanging edges to a long lock off move, ease up and then launch through a dynamic crux. Once through the crux, you are rewarded with 60 feet of cruiser moves on a slightly overhanging water groove full of sidepulls and gastons. Steepness:

17

Double Century Sport 5.11d
 
80  
Steepness:

18

Summer Solstice Sport 5.12b
 
80
An interesting climb with some committing moves off the ledge and a few tough moves in the water groove to the chains. If the top is wet, come back when it is dry. Start on in-cut crimps and make a few big moves to reach the ledge at the second bolt. Mantle on to the ledge, shimmy left, and stair at the 3rd bolt wishing you could clip it from the ledge. Commit to the moves and clip, then crimp up to the flake. Use a high step, crimp and a long right hand reach to a decent edge below the next bolt. A horn and nice edge lead to a decent slot. Tech your way up to the final bolt with tough clip and the work some magic in the water grove to hit the decent clipping holds above the chains. (Description above provided by the same person who provided the description for the Mountain Project entry.) Steepness:

19

Unfinished Route Toprope Unknown
 
80  
Anchors and a hanging rope, but no bolts. Steepness:

20

Bottom Bracket Trad 5.9
 
50
Visible from Century to climber's right where the main wall turns 90-degrees is this handcrack above a cave. Rap from the tree. Gear: standard rack. Steepness:

Comments

1
dustonian said on October 15th, 2014
props to Tackett and Wolfman getting this place opened up!
2
climbhigh said on October 15th, 2014
Thanks to Dan for getting the info compiled. I don't even remember how long ago we bolted here. Fun cliff with more potential. Even has its own smoke/ohm cave.
3
jsecker said on May 5th, 2015
The directions make it sound like you walk back to the main road then look for a road on your right. That is not the case. Turn right (uphill) immediately after you walk out the entrance to Flat Holler parking lot. This is the oil road you turned left on to get into the parking lot. The climbs are great!
4
MikeWilkinson said on November 19th, 2017
Just wanted to note that Double Century and the 12 to the right of it are not listed here, but listed in the latest guidebook. They are the routes just right of The Century.
5
woman said on March 21st, 2018
the sport route on the face to the right of lightning rod arete is Thunderface 12c, equipped by blake bowling - super awesome route
6
Anonymous said on March 21st, 2018
mmmk, did you come up w/ your name looking in the mirror or telescope?.
7
mbrunell said on April 22nd, 2018
Does anyone know what bolted route is to the left of lightning rod arete? I see a single bolted line about 20 to the left, I see at least 7 shiny new glue-ins.
8
Anonymous said on April 30th, 2019
Do I need to talk to anyone about developing an alternate trail that forks off just before the end of the approach trail? I assume not, and will start on it next weekend unless someone protests. The current approach ends in a waterfall runoff and is not ideal. I was going to run it up towards Lightning Rod Arete. Not sure exactly where it will pop up yet, but should be somewhere near there.
9
Anonymous said on April 30th, 2019
Do I need to talk to anyone about developing an alternate trail that forks off just before the end of the approach trail? I assume not, and will start on it next weekend unless someone protests. The current approach ends in a waterfall runoff and is not ideal. I was going to run it up towards Lightning Rod Arete. Not sure exactly where it will pop up yet, but should be somewhere near there.
10
Anonymous said on April 30th, 2019
Do I need to talk to anyone about developing an alternate trail that forks off just before the end of the approach trail? I assume not, and will start on it next weekend unless someone protests. The current approach ends in a waterfall runoff and is not ideal. I was going to run it up towards Lightning Rod Arete. Probably end at the cross where the crag splits with he pennacle.
11
Anonymous said on April 30th, 2019
Do I need to talk to anyone about developing an alternate trail that forks off just before the end of the approach trail? I assume not, and will start on it next weekend unless someone protests. The current approach ends in a waterfall runoff and is not ideal. I was going to run it up towards Lightning Rod Arete. Not sure exactly where it will pop up yet, but should be somewhere near there. This is fun! Keep deleting my post admin
12
Anonymous said on April 30th, 2019
Do I need to talk to anyone about developing an alternate trail that forks off just before the end of the approach trail? I assume not, and will start on it next weekend unless someone protests. The current approach ends in a waterfall runoff and is not ideal. I was going to run it up towards Lightning Rod Arete. Not sure exactly where it will pop up yet, but should be somewhere near there. Hi admin!
13
Raiden said on May 1st, 2019
I don't think your comment is being deleted by the admin. For some reason it's posting to "not defined." Assuming you're looking to change the trail at Velo Crag, I would contact the current land manager for RRGCC at [email protected]
14
Mdjagg said on May 8th, 2019
Trail Rerouted as of 5/6/19 The trail has been reworked to avoid the waterfall runoff at the end of the approach. This was already an issue, but has been getting worse and worse with the non stop rain. Not sure who built the trail originally, but it has become problematic. Same trailhead, but near the end, turn left at the large bolder and cut through the woods. The three sections are now accessible individually. The Left, Center, and Rights sides of Velo all are marked with orange trail tape. It's easy to follow. And also, if you're going to Lightning Rod Arete area, go back through the woods, as the trail along the wall is beat up and doesn't need to be used anymore, unless you like erosion and dangerous slip and slides. Please use this same path to exit the crag. Stones will be added to some of the steeper sections for stairs, and a sign for easier route finding in the near future.
15
Mdjagg said on May 17th, 2019
Well, those messages came through a long time after actually trying to post them. I'll contact Curtis and see what he thinks about th new setup and fix anything that's needed. I think the new trail is pretty straight forward and follows basic trail building practices. I'm no pro, but it's a significant improvement to what was there. It didn't take much, most of the path I chose was already cleared and just need some cleanup. If anyone is out there in the next few weeks, feedback is welcome. Just follow the orange tape.
16
Mdjagg said on May 21st, 2019
Well, a giant tree fell over blocking the new trail's exit to go over to the Right side, towards The Century. You can still use the new paths to get to the Center and Left. I'm going to try to borrow a chainsaw to cut up that beast, but it may be a while.