Real Deep End

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.13 2 2 15 19
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Directions to Real Deep End

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
In short: Take the low trail directly to Cloud 9 along Bowman Fork, but branch left after crossing the creek up a steep and often muddy old oil road. Follow this road to the end to arrive at routes 8-10. Detailed: From the Miller Fork main parking area, cross the creek on the foot bridge to the right. Immediately change to the left of the road to take a trail that leads to the Bowman Fork Road. Take a left toward the Serenity Point trailhead, then stay on the road as it veers left, crosses a creek, then veers right. At this point cross the creek again heading west by northwest onto an old logging road; follow this past the trailhead for The Infirmary. The road breaks down while following a creek; approximately 650 feet past the Infirmary trailhead is an old oil company road that goes up a steep hill. As you follow the road up, you will notice the main project wall of the Real Deep End on your left with a striking offwidth crack in a left facing dihedral. (To the climber's left of the OW crack find three long impressive lines, routes 3-5.) The road meets the wall (37.64069, -83.68550) near a swampy area and set of pumpy 5.11s that begins on an arete at left (Valsalva Maneuver); continue right for routes 11-19 or left for routes 1-7. The routes are listed from left to right.

Wall Sun:



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Poop Chute Sport 5.10a
 
65
Far left black streak route. High-quality movement, but bring a brush. Steepness:

2

Turd Burglar Sport 5.10b
 
65  
Another interesting moderate on the plated face right of Poop Chute. Steepness:

3

Charlie Horse Sport 5.13d
 
0
Steepness:

4

Open Project Sport 5.13
 
0  
Steepness:

5

Closed Project Sport 5.13
 
0  
Steepness:

6

Offwidth Dihedral Trad Unknown
 
0  
Steepness:

7

Papita P'al Loro Sport 5.12b
 
70
Immediately right of the huge OW crack. Steepness:

8

Valsalva Maneuver Sport 5.11c
 
60  
At present, the far left line on the 5.11 wall right and around the corner from the main project wall. A bouldery crux to gain the arete guards a no-hands rest before sustained pimping to the chains. Steepness:

9

Red Means Go Sport 5.11c
 
70  
The middle line at present, sustained and pumpy goodness. Start below and right of an obvious flake system at the first bolt. Steepness:

10

Tenoshitlan Sport 5.11b
 
80  
Starts off a cheater stack and perfect jug 10 feet right of Red Means Go. Get an attentive belayer due to the 2 ledge systems on this one. Steepness:

11

Swan Dive Sport 5.12b
 
85  
Between the 5.11 wall and Synthetic Intermediate is this long adventure, starting off a cheater stack with a bouldering problem just over the trail. A crazy juggy roof finish awaits above. Steepness:

12

Synthetic Intermediate Mixed 5.10b
 
50
From the set of 5.11s walk under the amphitheater to the other side past a blunt arete just left of a discontinuous crack system with a bolt just above the starting platform; the trad protection starts with an extended finger sized piece behind the next platform just below the start of the crack. Follow the discontinuous cracks up and right with good protection. About 3 feet under the topout, break right on good holds to the anchors. Steepness:

13

Plate for the Party Sport 5.9
 
45
Starts of a cheater stone uphill of Synthetic, roof start to cool plates. Steepness:

14

Alpha Dog Sport 5.9+
 
65
Just before the obvious dihedral up on the nice ledge system. Delicate crux to an unexpected pump. Bring a brush to love this one into shape. Steepness:

15

Omega Crack Trad 5.8
 
65
Obvious dihedral system on the right end of the ledge system. Steepness:

16

Castaway Sport 5.10a
 
65
Starts a few few feet right of the obvious Omega dihedral from a small pedestal. Interesting plates and crimps lead up a beautiful licheny pillar of rock. Steepness:

17

Cul du Chat (Project) Mixed Unknown
 
70  
From the dihedral follow the trail around the rock to the left. Find an amphitheater split midway up by a vertical crack. Climb the bolts on the face below the crack to the critical triangular fingerlock (le cul) for which the route is named. Climb on to the anchors on the right side of the wide flare at the top. There is also a steep direct start to the left. Currently a project via either start. Equipped by Art Cammers and Dustin Stephens Steepness:

18

Chupacabra Sport 5.13a
 
65  
20 feet right of the crack find a series of bolts that will test your slab mastery down low and your steep bouldering skills above. Finesse the slab, recover at the hueco, and fire through the crimps, pockets, and a clutch undercling as the lines angles to the left. Steepness:

19

The Woods We Live In Sport 5.13a
 
65
Climb on 5.10 vert terrain to reach a high first bolt (or stick clip it if your stick is long enough). Continue up to a break before the wall kicks back and get your game face on to tackle 3 bolts of powerful bouldery moves with tricky foot placements. Shake briefly on a good rail to finish with one more hard move before the chains. Climbs better than it looks. Equipped by Dustin Stephens. Steepness:

Comments

1
J-Ru said on February 29th, 2016
El Profundo Real
2
Yasmeen said on May 20th, 2016
These route names are cool and all, but to better fit the theme of the wall, can we change them all to the route names from the Deep End, with "Real" prepended to them? "Real Abyss," "Real Pool Boy," etc.?
3
dustonian said on May 21st, 2016
Haha. Best visited in dry conditions/afternoon
4
dustonian said on May 21st, 2016
BTW the old oil road ends at routes 8-10 rather than 6-8
5
dustonian said on June 7th, 2016
If someone gets excited to cut a trail between the Deep End and this crag, that would be sweet
6
chandler said on June 9th, 2016
Some of the unofficial trails built at MFRP are less than ideal, adding needless erosion and requiring add’l volunteer time to remedy. Please speak with RRGCC land management (currently Curtis and Audrey) before building new trails at MFRP.
7
Anonymous said on June 9th, 2016
Yeah how dare you people walk on the existing oil roads
8
Anonymous said on June 9th, 2016
Take note, turds
9
Anonymous said on April 4th, 2017
anyone know if this is a good summer/warm weather crag like the deep end?
10
Anonymous said on April 4th, 2017
It can be great on dry hot days. Otherwise it tends to be a bit manky when humid.
11
Anonymous said on April 4th, 2017
thanks!
12
Anonymous said on October 31st, 2018
Very shady.