Hole in the Wall

{directions} | {routes} | {comments}

Grade	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.11	-	1	35	36

Directions to Hole in the Wall

This wall is in Private property. Be respectful. Your behavior on this land can either help us secure access.. or help us lose it.

Wall 1: Sun most of the day in the winter. Tree shade when the leaves are out. Seeps some in the spring, affecting a few routes, but most of it is easily avoided. Wall 2: Shade until 1-2 pm. Routes on the left seep some in the spring, and the wall is more prone to condensing on humid days in the summer. Wall 3: Central steep juggy wall with vertical moderates flanking. Sun until 10 am. Excellent late spring, summer, and early fall wall. Wall 4: Technical shotgun pocket wall. Routes are moderately overhanging, mainly climbing on pockets and crimps. Sun until 10 am. Excellent late spring, summer, and early fall wall.

Wall Sun: Mixed

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.

Route	Spray	Name	Type	Grade	User Stars	Length	Picture
0 1	-1	Missed the Hole	Sport	25 5.11b	2.40 (5)	45 45ft	0
1 2	-1	Holey Cow!	Sport	21 5.10d	3.50 (16)	45 45ft	1
2 3	-1	Hoolin Hoggin' in a Booger Hole	Sport	20 5.10c	3.78 (18)	50 50ft	1
3 4	-1	Take or Break	Sport	27 5.11c	3.44 (9)	55 55ft	1
4 5	-1	Hole Lotta Shakin'	Sport	24 5.11a	3.09 (11)	50 50ft	1
5 6	-1	Get in the Hole	Sport	27 5.11c	3.67 (3)	55 55ft	0
6 7	-1	Toad in the Hole	Sport	28 5.11d	4.00 (1)	55 55ft	0
7 8	-1	The Hole Enchilada	Sport	28 5.11d	3.50 (10)	55 55ft	0
8 9	-1	Holestein	Sport	25 5.11b	3.13 (8)	50 50ft	1
9 10	-1	The Hole Nine Yards	Sport	15 5.9+	2.25 (4)	45 45ft	1
10 11	-1	Twll Mawr	Sport	16 5.10-	2.67 (6)	45 45ft	0
11 12	-1	The Stokehole	Sport	24 5.11a	3.00 (3)	45 45ft	0
12 13	-1	Holed On	Sport	31 5.12a	3.00 (3)	50 50ft	0
13 14	-1	Head Like A Hole	Sport	27 5.11c	2.50 (2)	50 50ft	1
14 15	-1	Loophole	Sport	25 5.11b	3.00 (1)	50 50ft	0
15 16	-1	Watering Hole	Sport	24 5.11a	2.67 (3)	55 55ft	0
16 17	-1	Holey Terror	Sport	28 5.11d	4.40 (5)	65 65ft	1
17 18	-1	Holey Hell	Sport	34 5.12c	4.67 (3)	65 65ft	1
18 19	-1	The Unholey (Closed Project, Equipped by Ian Kirk)	Sport	39 5.13b	5.00 (1)	65 65ft	1
19 20	-1	Holeshot	Sport	11 5.8	2.00 (5)	45 45ft	0
20 21	-1	Hole Lot of Nothing	Sport	18 5.10b	1.75 (4)	45 45ft	0
21 22	-1	Surprice B-Hole	Sport	20 5.10c	2.44 (9)	50 50ft	0
22 23	-1	Holier Than Thou	Sport	28 5.11d	4.25 (8)	60 60ft	1
23 24	-1	Cornholeo	Sport	28 5.11d	4.15 (13)	60 60ft	1
24 25	-1	Black Hole Sun	Sport	31 5.12a	3.86 (7)	60 60ft	1
25 26	-1	Hole Wheat	Sport	27 5.11c	2.50 (2)	60 60ft	0
26 27	-1	Boats and Holes	Sport	21 5.10d	2.88 (8)	60 60ft	0
27 28	-1	Clays Mixed Route	Mixed	-1		55 55ft	0
28 28a	-1	Mudhole	Sport	15 5.9+		60 60ft	0
29 29	-1	Hole' Mole'	Sport	34 5.12c	3.50 (2)	65 65ft	1
30 30	-1	A Hole New World	Sport	31 5.12a	4.22 (9)	65 65ft	1
31 31	-1	Hole Lotta Nanners	Sport	28 5.11d	4.25 (4)	75 75ft	0
32 32	-1	Holesale	Sport	28 5.11d	3.00 (1)	75 75ft	0
33 33	-1	Smokin' Potholes	Sport	25 5.11b	2.50 (2)	65 65ft	0
34 34	-1	Hole Grain Oats	Sport	24 5.11a	3.20 (5)	55 55ft	1
35 35	-1	Lizard Wizard	Sport	24 5.11a	2.83 (6)	60 60ft	1

Comments

7 comments {add your own comments}

Jacob said on September 3rd, 2019

So where is this place?

Rx2Climb said on September 8th, 2019

How is this for a summer crag?

Cromper said on September 8th, 2019

Right side of the holler is a perfect summer crag; shade all day. Directions found on mtn project until this gets updated.

Anonymous said on September 9th, 2019

The easiest approach is via an old logging road that is just past the rock wall as you head downhill on the Lode road. You can either park at the top and walk down, or park at the bottom and walk up. Take the logging road down to the bottom of the holler and follow the trail. Once you cross the stream, you will have an option to cut left (which will take you to the Southern aspect walls) or cut right (which will take you to the northern aspect walls. Alternatively, there is a path from the back of the Lode parking lot that you can walk in. The approach is about 10 minutes either way you go.

pawilkes said on October 23rd, 2019

Can anyone describe which routes are on each wall? The description above would be much more useful with that info

climb2core said on October 23rd, 2019

Routes 1-19 are on left side of holler, and more southern aspect. Routes 20-35 are right side of holler are more northern aspect.

Anonymous said on October 24th, 2019

Just to Add: Wall 1 - Left Side (first wall encountered): routes 1-9 Wall 2 - Left Side (furthest back wall): routes 10-19 Wall 3 - Right Side (furthest back wall, but also first wall encountered via trail): routes 20-28 Wall 4 - Right Side: routes 29-35

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

Hole in the Wall

Directions to Hole in the Wall

Comments

Spray

Attempts

Date Sent

Username	Password