Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 - - 16 16
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Directions to South Park

This wall is in Private property. Be respectful. Your behavior on this land can either help us secure access.. or help us lose it.
This crag is best approached by taking the trail that is midway down the Motherlode Hill, just downhill of the obvious pocketed wall. Continue past the Unlode on the logging trail and at the end it will gradually cut up the hill to right. As you come over the top of the hill you will see a large amphitheater. The line directly in front of the trail is Hippie Core Drill Machine. To get to the moderates walk left around the cave and turn the corner to the right to find the wall. Alternatively, you can walk in from the trail at the back of the large Motherlode parking lot, that is to the right of the new Motherlode/Bears Den trail. Take this trail to just before you cross the stream, and cut sharply right back up a trail that heads up the hill that is on your right as you walk in. Once at the top, this trail joins an old logging road where you cut back left. A few minutes walk from here will put you in view of the amphitheater of South Park. Routes are listed from left to right but you walk in more on the right side.

Wall Sun: Morning



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

The Dong Wall Sport 5.10b
 
45  
Find some holds to the right of the route and figure out a way to high step and get on to the ledge. Work through a series of large pockets to a somewhat spooky hollow sounding hold that seems to be ok. Lock off and grope the surprisingly sturdy large dong. Finish up on good edges and buckets. Currently the furthest left route on the wall, but there will most likely be a few more additions. Steepness:

2

Kenny's Mom is a Big Fat Bitch Sport 5.11b
 
45  
Climb up the slab on the far left in a very shallow dihedral to gain the ledge then continue on steeper jugs through the overhang. Surmount the crux roof on decent edges, crimps, and pockets to the chains. Steepness:

3

Jet Ski Joy Rider Sport 5.11a
 
45  
Climb up the middle of the slab utilizing a nice side pull then swim through jugs off the ledge to a roof. Fire through your choice of good edges and pockets and continue to the chains. Steepness:

4

A Bunch of Tree-Hugging Hippie Crap Sport 5.10d
 
45  
Start up the slab just below a protruding block. From the ledge, climb the jugs until meeting up with the left-arching flake. Follow the flake up to the short roof, punch through and continue to the chains. Steepness:

5

Drugs are Bad, Mkay? Sport 5.10c
 
45  
Climb up decent holds to reach the steeper section and continue through jugs and pockets through a small roof then to the chains. Steepness:

6

Tears of Unfathomable Sadness Sport 5.10d
 
50  
Climb up a dirty face to the ledge below the featured overhang. Pull on good holds through the steeper section until they lessen to smaller pockets. Apply a bit of graceful thrutch and make your way to the chains. Should clean up with more traffic. Steepness:

7

It's a Jersey Thing Sport 5.10b
 
45  
Start up the vertical face to the largest part of the ledge splitting the cliff. From there, climb through a discontinuous left-facing crack/dihedral feature to steeper pockets and jugs. Steepness:

8

About Tree Fiddy Sport 5.10b
 
45  
An enjoyable climb unique from the rest of the wall that breaks into three distinct sections. Boulder through the slopey bottom section to gain the right end of the ledge. Climb through vertical, crimpy plates to another small ledge then continue up and around the arete feature to the chains. First route you encounter after walking around the corner. Steepness:

9

Kanye West is a Gay Fish Sport 5.12a
 
50  
At the far left end of the amphitheater is a short, striated wall. This climbs up the middle of this section of cliff. Steepness:

10

Improbableh, But Not Impossibleh (Closed Project) Sport 5.13
 
100  
Currently the furthest left route in the cave. The start quickly leads to a horizontal roof boulder problem. After you pull the roof continue through 100 feet more of steep pulling with several more cruxes along the way. Steepness:

11

Closed Project Sport Unknown
 
80  
Steepness:

12

Big Gay Al's Big Gay Boat Ride Sport 5.12c
 
80
This route is an excellent pumpfest with a low crux and some long moves on steep rock. With this one, the key is just finding the right pace to keep the pump in check. Bring a full 60m rope and make sure to tie a knot in the end. Start on the obvious cheater pile. Steepness:

13

Blame Canada Sport 5.12d
 
80
This route is long, steep, and just flows well. It requires a bit of sequential movement in the steepest section and finishes with a spicy run to just below the chains where either brute strength or some trickery will be needed. This route is currently the furthest right in the cave proper. It shares the first couple moves with its neighboring route to the left, but quickly cuts right. Full 60m required Steepness:

14

Hippie Core Drill Machine Sport 5.12a
 
80
Start on an uncannily sturdy cheater pile and reach high to a couple of crimps. Establish yourself on the wall and make a difficult mantle to a stance on a ledge. Clip the bolt on the your left and remove your first draw to substantially reduce rope drag. Climb past some diagonal rails and tech your way to a stance before firing into pockets which improve to jugs as you continue up. Find the amazing handle bar grips at the top and finish it up. This is just right of the cave proper. Steepness:

15

Cherokee Hair Tampon Sport 5.12b
 
55  
Fun climbing down low gives way to a boulder at the top where you earn the grade. Starts about 100 feet right of the cave. Steepness:

16

Festively Plump Sport 5.8+
 
35  
Start up a short, juggy corner to gain the featured face above. Continue through pockets and horizontal breaks to an abrupt end. Steepness:

Comments

1
sigrah said on February 11th, 2020
This crag has the best route names in the history of the red river gorge.
2
Anonymous said on February 12th, 2020
These aren’t original names but, ok. Just other ppl’s humor passed off as original. But yeah, “best ever.” I guess Ai Bang Mai Fa Kin Ni is too mainstream.
3
Anonymous said on February 12th, 2020
Now we have two South Park crags in the Red? What about the South Park crag across from The Locker Room??
4
climb2core said on February 12th, 2020
One is private and I really don't see that going public anytime soon. But you knew that too.