COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Lumpy Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.8 6 1 - 7
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Directions to Lumpy Wall

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
Drive 1.4 miles down County Road 1067 from the steel bridge on KY 77 (1.2 miles from the Long Wall parking area). The gravel road changes to asphalt at the Menifee and Powell county line. About a mile farther is a farmhouse and barn on the left and a gravel road on the right (Forest Service Road 9). Turn down that road and proceed 1.1 miles and cross a bridge. This brings you to the intersection of 9A and 9B. Turn right on 9B and drive 2.9 miles to a low concrete bridge which crosses the East fork of Indian Creek. Drive across the bridge and park immediately on the right near a Forest Service gate. Hike .75 miles east down the meandering logging road until it veers left and uphill and finally fades out. A massive pinnacle, easily visible in the Winter, is on your left (to the north and west) as the road curves around it. When the road becomes obscure, bushwhack toward the pinnacle until you can discern a saddle between its north side and the main cliff. If you followed directions closely, the saddle should be on the right as you approach the pinnacle. Follow the saddle right (north) to its bisection with the nearby wall, then walk left (west) 300 feet to the first climb, Spider Wand.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

 Major's Pinnacle Mixed 5.8
 
 3.00  (2) 100ft  

2

 Where's the Bolt? Trad 5.8
 
 2.00  (1) 100ft  

3

 Spider Wand Trad 5.10d
 
 3.00  (2) 50ft  

4

 Hilda's Crack Trad 5.11a
 
 2.00  (1) 60ft  

5

 Sensible Shoes Trad 5.10c
 
 70ft  

6

 Geezers With Tweezers Trad 5.10c
 
 120ft  

7

 Don't Give Your See-Saw Pal a Bump Trad 5.9
 
 2.00  (1) 90ft  

Comments

3 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on January 4th, 2005
Major's Pinnacle coordinates: 37.8869°N, 83.6373°W Main Wall GPS: 37.8893°N, 83.6371°W
2
Anonymous said on December 9th, 2005
There and Back Again 5.6 *** Park same as for the Junkyard or Backside/Lumpy Walls. Follow the approach as if going to Lumpy. When you reach the split continue along Little East Fork of Indian Creek. Cross a tributary and continue until you come to another tributary coming in from the north. Leave the main creek and hike up the ridge on the east side of the second tributary. You’ll pass through a cool pine grove and eventually come to a dense rhododendron thicket at t he base of a cliff. Thrash around to the left keeping close to the wall. Look for one of two recesses with three short cracks. Ascend to the ledge halfway up the cliff and traverse right, back toward the main point, looking for a distinct low angle, left facing dihedral. Climb the crack to a notch at the top of the wall. Rappel from a tree nearby. Length: 50 feet. GPS: 37.8848°N, 83.6290°W
3
Huggybone said on December 13th, 2005
Damn, that's alot of work for a 50 foot climb!