Drive 1.4 miles down County Road 1067 from the steel bridge on KY 77 (1.2 miles from the Long Wall parking area). The gravel road changes to asphalt at the Menifee and Powell county line. About a mile farther is a farmhouse and barn on the left and a gravel road on the right (Forest Service Road 9). Turn down that road and proceed 1.1 miles and cross a bridge. This brings you to the intersection of 9A and 9B. Turn right on 9B and drive 2.9 miles to a low concrete bridge which crosses the East fork of Indian Creek. Drive across the bridge and park immediately on the right near a Forest Service gate. Hike .75 miles east down the meandering logging road until it veers left and uphill and finally fades out. A massive pinnacle, easily visible in the Winter, is on your left (to the north and west) as the road curves around it. When the road becomes obscure, bushwhack toward the pinnacle until you can discern a saddle between its north side and the main cliff. If you followed directions closely, the saddle should be on the right as you approach the pinnacle. Follow the saddle right (north) to its bisection with the nearby wall, then walk left (west) 300 feet to the first climb, Spider Wand.

Wall Sun: Unknown

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Route	Spray	Name	Type	Grade	User Stars	Length
0 1	-1	Major's Pinnacle	Mixed	11 5.8	3.00 (2)	100 100ft
1 2	-1	Where's the Bolt?	Trad	11 5.8	2.00 (1)	100 100ft
2 3	-1	Spider Wand	Trad	21 5.10d	3.00 (2)	50 50ft
3 4	-1	Hilda's Crack	Trad	24 5.11a	2.00 (1)	60 60ft
4 5	-1	Sensible Shoes	Trad	20 5.10c		70 70ft
5 6	-1	Geezers With Tweezers	Trad	20 5.10c		120 120ft
6 7	-1	Don't Give Your See-Saw Pal a Bump	Trad	14 5.9	2.00 (1)	90 90ft

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3 comments {add your own comments}

Anonymous said on January 4th, 2005

Major's Pinnacle coordinates: 37.8869�N, 83.6373�W Main Wall GPS: 37.8893�N, 83.6371�W

Anonymous said on December 8th, 2005

There and Back Again 5.6 *** Park same as for the Junkyard or Backside/Lumpy Walls. Follow the approach as if going to Lumpy. When you reach the split continue along Little East Fork of Indian Creek. Cross a tributary and continue until you come to another tributary coming in from the north. Leave the main creek and hike up the ridge on the east side of the second tributary. You�ll pass through a cool pine grove and eventually come to a dense rhododendron thicket at t he base of a cliff. Thrash around to the left keeping close to the wall. Look for one of two recesses with three short cracks. Ascend to the ledge halfway up the cliff and traverse right, back toward the main point, looking for a distinct low angle, left facing dihedral. Climb the crack to a notch at the top of the wall. Rappel from a tree nearby. Length: 50 feet. GPS: 37.8848�N, 83.6290�W

Huggybone said on December 12th, 2005

Damn, that's alot of work for a 50 foot climb!

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

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