Travel 0.9 miles down 9b from the concrete bridge by the parking area for backside and Lumpy Walls (or 3.8 miles from the 9a/9b intersection). The road crosses the East Fork of Indian Creek via a ford which has concrete slats laid in the streambed. Park before the crossing(or park at Purple Valley and walk back up the road), and locate a ridge on the right(Southeast) which terminates in a steep slope 300 feet before the crossing. Bushwhack up the ridge(beware of stinging nettles in the Summer) to a plateau, then angle slightly left and continue on a faint logging road along a saddle toward the main cliff. You will encounter the "Island", an oblong pinnacle which is adjacent and perpendicular to the main wall. Walk along the left side of the Island until you reach the main wall. The first batch of climbs is to the left(east), and the remainder to the right(more or less South).

Wall Sun: Unknown

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.

Route	Spray	Name	Type	Grade	User Stars	Length	Picture
0 1	-1	It's Got It All	Trad	14 5.9	1.00 (1)	60 60ft	0
1 2	-1	Dangling Angle	Trad	15 5.9+	1.50 (2)	60 60ft	0
2 2a	-1	Bring Out the Gent	Trad	14 5.9		80 80ft	0
3 2b	-1	Shit My Pants and Dance	Trad	18 5.10b		60 60ft	0
4 2c	-1	Gumby In A Tree	Trad	14 5.9	(1)	70 70ft	0
5 2d	-1	All In a Day's Work	Trad	18 5.10b	3.50 (3)	70 70ft	0
6 2e	-1	Number of the Beast	Trad	34 5.12c	4.00 (1)	50 50ft	0
7 2f	-1	Country Lovin'	Trad	32 5.12b	5.00 (2)	90 90ft	1
8 3	-1	Blood on the Nuts	Trad	12 5.8+	2.83 (6)	75 75ft	0
9 3a	-1	The Great Beyond	Trad	6 5.6	1.50 (2)	100 100ft	0
10 4	-1	Over Easy	Trad	8 5.7		30 30ft	0
11 5	-1	Jim's Dihedral	Trad	17 5.10a	4.33 (36)	100 100ft	1
12 6	-1	Fibrulator	Trad	25 5.11b	4.00 (3)	80 80ft	1
13 6a	-1	Fibrulator Direct	Trad	28 5.11d	4.80 (5)	80 80ft	1
14 6b	-1	Drunked Up	Trad	24 5.11a	2.00 (1)	100 100ft	0
15 7	-1	Crack Attack	Trad	15 5.9+	4.68 (56)	80 80ft	1
16 7a	-1	Cave Cricket	Trad	20 5.10c	3.67 (3)	45 45ft	0
17 8	-1	Made Me Sweat	Trad	11 5.8		60 60ft	0
18 9a	-1	Acuwide	Trad	11 5.8		60 60ft	0
19 9b	-1	Six Four Face	Trad	14 5.9		60 60ft	0
20 9c	-1	Indian Castle	Trad	6 5.6	3.25 (4)	60 60ft	0
21 10	-1	Slimy Creatures	Trad	8 5.7	3.20 (15)	120 120ft	1
22 11	-1	Gizmo	Trad	11 5.8	2.00 (2)	75 75ft	0
23 11a	-1	G2 the Friction	Trad	12 5.8+		90 90ft	0
24 11b	-1	Not Ice	Trad	31 5.12a	3.00 (2)	60 60ft	1
25 11c	-1	Better Red Than Dead	Trad	34 5.12c	5.00 (2)	150 150ft	1
26 12a	-1	Trunkline	Trad	11 5.8		60 60ft	0
27 12b	-1	Blissoming Into Manhood	Trad	15 5.9+		60 60ft	0
28 12c	-1	Five Tree	Trad	8 5.7		60 60ft	0
29 13	-1	Don't Come Easy	Trad	18 5.10b		65 65ft	0
30 14	-1	Another One Bites the Dust	Trad	15 5.9+	4.00 (1)	130 130ft	0
31 14a	-1	Deerfly	Trad	20 5.10c		80 80ft	0
32 15	-1	Curiosity	Trad	11 5.8	4.33 (3)	40 40ft	0
33 16	-1	Break the Edge	Trad	12 5.8+		40 40ft	0
34 17	-1	Don't Break the Edge	Trad	14 5.9		40 40ft	0
35 17a	-1	Orange Barrel	Trad	18 5.10b		100 100ft	0
36 18	-1	Lost Dihedral	Trad	18 5.10b		110 110ft	0

Comments

15 comments {add your own comments}

Ascentionist said on January 31st, 2006

GPS Indian Castle: 37.8954�N, 83.6402�W

kdelap said on October 4th, 2012

What Datum are you using?

Anonymous said on September 10th, 2013

cannot find the route. using 3rd edition book did not help. drive till the road was closed and walked all over but still could not locate a trail at all. would love to check it out. is the trail overgrown in the summer?

Wolf said on September 10th, 2013

The entrance to the trail is overgrown. The first time I went I had to look for quite awhile to find it, but it's there, where the guidebook says it is.

Anonymous said on September 10th, 2013

Park at the big left hand turn about a half mile before the roads ends, should be on ur right headed out there.

Anonymous said on September 24th, 2013

I don't remember this big left hand turn. Can someone leave some cairns at the start of the trail? Both times I crossed the steel bridge, turned left towards Indian Creek. Then the road forked and I took the right (gravel) where the sign says Indian Creek. I drove several miles more, passing a giant camp site on the right, right before the stream that was running through pipes under a concrete pavement. I drove past the stream and then the road closes shortly after but I looked for a trail on my right from the stream to where the road ends and couldn't find anything. Was I even on the correct road?

Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2013

Here are the gps coords for the start of the trailhead: 37.8958526, -83.6435541 (37°53'45.0708", -83°38'36.7938") No need to bushwhack.

Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2013

I added a photo of the trailhead to Indian Creek to the Crack Attack page (since I cannot post a picture on this one). Along with the GPS coordinates I posted I hope more people will visit. Also, the entrance to the trailhead is very close to a campsite that is next to the river on the left side of the road (as you drive in). I forget if it is slight before or after it.

Anonymous said on April 13th, 2019

I've been thinking I would visit this crag, but I am not sure how to get there. I was at pebble beach a couple weeks ago and Indian Creek Rd (F.S. 9) is gated off so that there is no vehicle access. Is there another way to get to F.S. 9b otherwise the hike is like 4 miles. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

DrRockso said on April 15th, 2019

There isn't another way anymore, hopefully they will fix up the road and reopen it soon, until then, bring a bike!

MikeWilkinson said on April 16th, 2019

Biked this yesterday - was a pleasant 30 minute bike ride from where the gate is down to the normal parking area for ICC. The ride back during the storm? Not as pleasant, but the bridge made for a nice shelter to wait it out.

Anonymous said on August 12th, 2019

Roads back open. 8/11/19

Anonymous said on August 12th, 2019

Sooo glad this is finally open. Never been. I have been driving down from Chi town every other weekend for the last 3 months hoping the road would be open when I arrive, yet arriving in the dark Friday night I would check on way to migs and it was always closed. I was getting desperate and even considered bringing my e-bike for the commute to the cliff, but now I'll save it for the mtn bike trails! Yay trad jamming plug a roo! So psyched to check out all of the classics!

Anonymous said on August 3rd, 2020

I had been fantasizing about making it all the way out to this crag for a year. I finally made it and it was worth the hike. Crack Attack is an amazing route. I posted a video about my trip on YouTube for anyone interested. https://youtu.be/FzF1c3fsx9s

Anonymous said on August 4th, 2020

Damn after a year of prep it's basically like you put up a big-wall FA in the Karakoram

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

Indian Creek Crag

Directions to Indian Creek Crag

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