COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Purple Valley

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 18 5 8 31

Directions to Purple Valley

This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
Drive to the very end of 9b which is 0.1 miles past the crossing near the parking for Indian Creek Crag (3.9 miles from the 9a/9b intersection). You will pass a road, which is blocked by a gate on the right, that leads to Board Wall. Either park at the very end of the road and risk getting blocked in, or park at a small turnout on the left just before the end. On the right(Northest) side of the road, across from the turnout, is a flat grassy area popular with campers. Walk to that area, then turn right and follow a faint path across a muddy rivulet to the base of a more recent logging road. Turn left and head up the muddy road until you near the wall. The large detached area of rock on the left is the location of "A Way of Life", "Delusions of Grandeur", and all climbs in between. At the point this detached area bisects the main cliff near an arete is where "Captain One Eye" can be found. Climbs on the right side of the detached block and those eastward are described first, then the left side of the detached block and climbs to its west are listed.

Wall Sun: Unknown

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture


Coffee Talk Sport 5.10c
2.94  (49) 60ft


A Way Of Life Sport 5.10b
2.59  (41) 60ft  


Captain One Eye Sport 5.10a
3.45  (62) 70ft


What About Bob? Trad 5.10a


Candy Land Trad 5.10b


Come in Your Lycra Sport 5.10a
4.30  (76) 45ft


Impossible Sport 5.12c
1.00  (1) 50ft  


Shish-kebab Trad 5.9
2.75  (4) 60ft  


Pebbly Poo Mixed 5.9
3.37  (19) 60ft


It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy Trad 5.6
3.75  (4) 60ft


Delusions of Grandeur Sport 5.11b
3.94  (17) 60ft  


Maybe, Maybe Not Trad 5.9
2.57  (7) 70ft  


Til the Cows Come Home Mixed 5.12a
4.00  (2) 90ft  


Grunt Trad 5.8-
3.50  (14) 80ft


Tour de Hooks Mixed 5.10d
2.75  (4) 40ft  


Hot Licks and Rhetoric Trad 5.8
3.67  (6) 95ft  


Pleasant Surprise Trad 5.11a
3.00  (2) 50ft  


Spinning Marty Trad 5.9
2.00  (2) 60ft  


Ride the Coal Train Trad 5.10c


Into the Purple Valley Trad 5.8
4.34  (65) 95ft


5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' Mixed 5.10b
3.11  (27) 40ft  


Big Crack Trad 5.7
2.53  (15) 40ft


The Love Shack Sport 5.11c
3.70  (10) 30ft  


Flaring Crack Trad 5.7
3.17  (23) 30ft


Off Width Your Head Trad 5.7
2.00  (1) 80ft  


Social Butterfly Trad 5.10b
3.17  (18) 25ft


Me-yommy Bouldering V3
4.00  (1) 25ft


No Retreat Trad 5.10b
4.00  (1) 110ft  


Anklebreaker Bouldering V2
2.00  (1) 20ft  


Burden of Dreams Trad 5.11c
5.00  (6) 80ft


Electric Cowboy Sport 5.11b
4.46  (26) 70ft


Suckers at the Top Mixed 5.9
3.00  (1) 50ft  


The Bushman Trad 5.8


Anonymous said on May 20th, 2005
so.....this is a 5 mile hike past where forest service road 9 is gated? why did they gate that anyway?
Ascentionist said on February 1st, 2006
Coffee Talk GPS: 37.9008N, 83.6379W
Crankmas said on November 20th, 2006
be prepared for a stream crossing like the Funk Rock approach- second stream crossing is washed out and blocked- adds very little to the approach time wise
Myke Dronez said on March 13th, 2008
"Across from the turnout" was confusing and maybe applied to a time when the road ended past the stream. Drove to the end of the road where it is blocked before the stream. Cross the stream before looking for the approach trail to the right (50+ yards).
Anonymous said on August 27th, 2008
Your damn right it was confusing directions. Path is unrecognizable in summer. After creek there is a small gravel area on right. Directly across from that is start of trail.
Anonymous said on August 27th, 2008
I think you mean to say the small gravel area is on your left and the trail is directly across from that. Unless someone moved Purple Valley.
Anonymous said on September 2nd, 2008
the approach described in the guidebook is out dated. the road ends earlier than indicated, since the bridge collapsed. park at the bridge, walk across the stream then about 50 yards up there will be wooden pillars on the left side (look out for these, they are a little hidden) where the turnout used to be and the overgrown trail up to coffee talk is across the trail from the pillars. This is the trail they are referring to in the book, but someone said you could get to the west side of the wall if you follow the lost ridge trail.
Jeff said on April 12th, 2010
So after 12+ years of climbing at the Red, I finaly notice the intro to PV in the print guide where it says if you climb here in the spring, you'll see why it's called Purple Valley. Sweet! Cool beta, right?!! Well it's spring, and the redbuds are blooming like crazy. Purple Valley should be renamed Brown Valley.
jenbongo said on May 5th, 2010
Exactly, Jeff. We were there April 18th, and now it's Green Valley. We saw some purple flox near the parking area, and the redbuds on the drive in, but the view from the top - green.
Danny said on April 4th, 2012
The road is blocked at the Indian Creak crossing so just park before that and walk a few more feet. There is a lot more purple phlox than red bud here.
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2012
There's a new route between love shack and delusions of grandeur, seemed low 10, maybe a 9, any idea what this is? There are 3 bolts and all gear looks new. Was a funny route. Also, Follow Annonymous (Sept 2nd) directions. Got lucky today and found it.
dustonian said on May 1st, 2012
maybe one of those old mixed routes got rebolted... "5.11 Jimmy..."?
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2013
There is a new route bolted to the left of the Anklebreaker splitter crack boulder problem. It starts up the arete then climbs past a small roof and then does a pretty heady traverse out right on very thin stuff. Maybe high 10 low 11 grade. Anyone have any idea about it? It's not in the new guidebook.
dustonian said on May 8th, 2013
Heard some unsubstantiated rumors that a bolt failed out here recently, resulting in a broken leg. Anyone have more info on this?
DrRockso said on April 10th, 2014
Directions: Drive until 9b is closed by a gate due to a washed out bridge across the creek. Park in a small camping area on the left or a small parking area before this on the right. Cross the creek and continue on 9b past a well defined trail on your right and continue a little further until you see another trail on your right. Take this trail all the way to the crag.
Anonymous said on April 10th, 2014
So they finally closed the last mile of 9b eh? Bummer.
Willy said on April 10th, 2014
No, it's still open all the way to old concrete bridge. Doesn't appear it's been open past there for quite some time
davidbr said on March 9th, 2017
Just right of where the approach trail hits the outlier is a chimney that goes at about 5.8 and takes gear to 12 inches. You can walk off.