COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.
Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 18 - 1 19

Directions to Lost Ridge

This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
Park in the same area as for Purple Valley. The road is blocked by metal pylons but continues on as a 4-wheel drive road. Hike past the pylons and over a mound of dirt. Continue in the same direction as the road making use of a trail on your right to avoid crossing the stream. Cross the stream when you have to about 300 feet from the parking area. Just before you are forced to cross again, look for a tributary known as Amos Creek on your left. Leave the road, cross Amos Creek, and walk north (to the right) up a steep ridge through a limestone band to a buttress. You will see a wide crack (Quality Crack) in the middle of the wall at this point.

Wall Sun: Unknown

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture


Tough Enough Trad 5.10b
Walk left from The Poacher for about 15 minutes. Eventually you will spot this nice looking handcrack. Ascend the handcrack with "reach way back" type jamming then grunt up to the interesting finish. An alternate approach from the creek is recommended. Steepness:


Dive Right In Trad 5.9+
From Poacher walk left about 10 minutes and you will see this right facing dihedral. If you hit the buttress you have went too far. Steepness:


The Poacher Sport 5.11c
This bolted route ascends the vertical face left of Quality Crack. Steepness:


Quality Crack Trad 5.10b
This route ascends the obvious wide crack mentioned in the approach. Steepness:


The Ridgling Trad 5.7
Walk right from Quality Crack for about five minutes to find this grungy right-facing dihedral located directly behind a tall skinny tree with a bloated trunk. A fun and easy climb with great jamming despite outward appearances. Rappel from a tree to descend. Steepness:
adventerous-1 : hands-1 : dihedral-1 : pile-1


Sampsel's Dihedral Trad 5.8+


Coolabrado Tree Hugger Trad 5.9
About 50 feet left of Wide Pride. Climb the dirty offwidth section angling left to a detached flack then straight up the face. Hug the dead tree to top out. Steepness:


Wide Pride Trad 5.10c
Park in the same area as for Purple Valley. The road is blocked by metal pylons but continues on as a 4-wheel drive road. Hike past the pylons and over a mound of dirt. Continue in the same direction as the road making use of a trail on your right to avoid crossing the stream. Cross the stream when you have to and pick up the trail again. Don't head left up Amos Creek as you do for the approach to Quality Crack. Instead, cross the stream again and continue on the road/trail. Cross the stream 2 more times. About 500 feet after you cross the stream a fourth time, head off the trail to the left and cross the stream again. Wander up the hill near a drainage and past some boulders up a little higher. Eventually you'll see the cliff. You'll probably end up meeting the cliff about 600 feet left of Wide Pride. Hike to the right until you see the obvious wide splitter crack hidden behind a tree. Steepness:


Key Pebble Trad 5.9
Hike right from Wide Pride along the cliffline for about 300 yards. This is the perfect (but mossy) handcrack that cuts to the left into an offwidthy thing up top. Steepness:


Corner Cutter Trad 5.10+


Two-Nut Letdown Trad 5.8
Up in the right side of the back of the holler 5 minutes right of Key Pebble, this is the flake and handcrack system with some orange rock, left of the 1-inch splitter in the left-facing corner. Steepness:


#1 Crack Trad 5.11a
The awesome 1-inch splitter in the left-facing corner on the right in the back of the holler. Often wet. Steepness:


Boiler Room Trad 5.10d
Walk right from Wide Pride, staying near the cliffline, until you come to a rocky drainage. Walk over the drainage and follow the cliffline for about 100 feet then head down the steep hill to your right and cross the large drainage. Head back up the hill towards the cliff and you'll see this obvious, long dihedral. The dihedral starts about six feet off the ground and has a cave of sorts at its beginning. Steepness:


Kaiju Trad 5.11a
The epic steep corner just right of a massive overhanging wall. One of the longest, most sustained and vomit-inducing offwidths in the Red. Enjoy the insane finish moves up top. 60m rope mandatory for rappel, pro to multiple #5 & 6 Camalots. Steepness:


Buffin the Taint Trad 5.9+
Quality squeezing and stemming, start off a small pedestal right of a tree. Pro to #5 Camalot, #6 optional. Steepness:


Full Service Trad 5.10c
100 feet right of the Taint offiwdth. Hard damp start on overhanging rock with face holds, then continue up high quality fingers, hands, and stegosaurus-spine jug hauling. Move right up top to a rappel tree-&-nut anchor. Steepness:


Stonehinge Trad 5.10a
This is the huge left-leaning corner system with a seepy start, about 2 minutes right of Full Service. Start with tricky face and stemming around the damp crack down low. Move into the crack when possible to perfect handjams. Continue through the chimney to a tree out right. Steepness:


Kitty Litter Trad 5.9+
8 minutes right of Stonehinge, down, around, and back on a north-facing wall is this cool right-facing corner with interesting steep moves up high. Move right to a tree rappel on the ledge. Steepness:


Whodunit Trad 5.9
Straight-in crack right of Kitty, take the hand crack to a ledge and belay off a tree. Top out via an unprotected 5-move boulder problem. Steepness:


Danny said on October 26th, 2003
If you are going to Wide Pride and Boiler Room be sure to folllow the directions for Wide Pride.
Cromper said on September 22nd, 2012
Surprisingly not to hard to find this wall. Beautiful remote location! Directions in the guide are spot on.