COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Phantasia

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.9 8 - 10 18
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Directions to Phantasia

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. KY 77 curves left near an old barn while KY 715 continues straight. Follow KY 77 around to the left, past the barn on the right and uphill for 1.0 miles to a pulloff on the right just beyond a right curve. Across from the pulloff on the left is a wall close to the road. Hike up the short approach to the base of the wall where you will see a roof about 20 feet up. This is the first route Creature Feature. To access the routes further down the wall, it is best to walk back down the road to a smaller pulloff. Across from the pulloff, look for a plated face. Hike toward the plated face via faint trails.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

 Creature Feature Sport 5.9+
 
 4.08  (215) 60ft

2

 Twinkie Sport 5.12a
 
 4.83  (121) 80ft

3

 Phantasia Sport 5.12d
 
 4.67  (21) 85ft

4

 Luck's Up Sport 5.12b
 
 3.36  (22) 65ft

5

 Count Floyd Show Sport 5.11b
 
 4.00  (87) 70ft

6

 Creep Show Sport 5.10d
 
 4.24  (148) 70ft

7

 Pogue Ethics Sport 5.10b
 
 4.06  (189) 80ft

8

 Perverse Intentions Sport 5.10a
 
 2.34  (70) 40ft

9

 Grand Bazaar Trad 5.10a
 
 2.00  (2) 65ft

10

 Le Petite Bazaar Trad 5.5
 
 2.00  (6) 25ft

11

 Bobsledding Trad 5.7
 
 2.57  (14) 60ft

12

 Lord of the Flies Sport 5.9
 
 2.63  (138) 40ft

12a

 Over the Flies Trad 5.5
 
 2.00  (1) 40ft

12b

 Overlord Sport 5.10b
 
 3.68  (158) 0ft

12c

 You Got Served Trad 5.8
 
 3.20  (5) 60ft

13

 Attack of the Sand Shark Trad 5.9-
 
 3.40  (43) 70ft

14

 St. Alfonso's Trad 5.7
 
 3.19  (32) 80ft

15

 Tomfoolery Trad 5.5
 
 2.08  (12) 40ft

Comments

10 comments {add your own comments}
1
camhead said on June 25th, 2008
2
kimandbob said on July 9th, 2009
On July 4, 2009, John Benningfield onsited (FA'ed) a new trad route on Phantasia Wall located between Lord of the Flies and Overlord.
3
JohnBenningfield said on July 19th, 2009
To the left of Lord of the Flies before you go around the corner to Overlord, there is a 45 ft. left pointing flake. This crack starts with two hand sized cracks that lead up into an off width. Chicken wing up the crack. Climb out onto the face where the flake leans left overhead. Finish on the ledge, and rap off the same anchors as Overlord. This is about a 5.6+ to 5.7 and 50 ft. tall. I would give it a PG rating because of the loose rocks and breaking holds. It was pretty dirty. This climb was not in the book I have, and the party climbing next to my wife and I could not find it in their literature either. If this crack is already named, please let me know; otherwise, I want to name it "Look Out Alex Super Tramp" because of the 10 lb rock that came out of the crack and almost hit my dog.
4
babymagic said on April 19th, 2011
i know the exact one your talking about. i dont think it is named.
5
hamsco said on February 27th, 2014
The crack is "You got Served" It is in the wrong order on the list. Done in 2004
6
Reambo said on May 25th, 2014
Several of the climbs don't seem to be in correct order, had to refer to guide book diagram to figure it out. Stunning scenery in this area of the gorge, going back down to the road between the various routes would rob you of the neat forest trail.
7
Anonymous said on October 30th, 2014
Hi I don’t know if i make my comment at the right place… I did Twinkie last week and i noticed the the anchor was very worn, even dangerous !! Thank Nicolas Hudon
8
Anonymous said on June 8th, 2017
I'm looking for information on the big crack 18 feet to the left of Overlord. It starts as a chimney and narrows to wide fingers up top, with some good hand jams in the middle. I climbed it on 6/3/17. It was extremely dirty and I was breaking off lots of weak sandstone on the bottom half. I posted pictures and called it Trogdor's Crack on Mountain Project (because I hate unknown route). I'll be happy to change it when we can find accurate information on the climb. Thanks, Scott Baird
9
Ascentionist said on June 9th, 2017
I don't know the history, but I'd bet its been climbed. I know around the time Overlord was bolted there was some interest in that section of cliff and reports of various grunge routes being "FAed".
10
DrRockso said on November 20th, 2019
If anyone is headed out here bring a breaker bar with a 9/16'' 6 sided socket. Several routes including Pogue ethics and overlord have been rebolted but the old bolts still need taken out. Overlord also has an anchor bolt which needs tightened.