Phantasia
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Directions to Phantasia

This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
Wall Sun: Unknown
Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | Length | Picture |
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1 |
-1 | Creature Feature | Sport | 5.9+ |
|
60 | 1 |
This is the firt route encountered from the end of the approach trail. Look for a plated face with a roof about 20 feet up. Climb up to the ledge beneath the roof, pull the lip and continue to the top on jugs. |
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2 |
-1 | Twinkie | Sport | 5.12a |
|
80 | 1 |
Walk around the corner about 150 feet to the right of Creature Feature and up a steep section to a flat area of rock. You will see two bolted routes ascending the steep face. This is the route on the left. Climb the slab to the overhang to the anchors. |
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3 |
-1 | Phantasia | Sport | 5.12d |
|
85 | 1 |
This is the bolted route 10 feet right of Twinkie. Climb a technical slab to a full recovery beneath the overhang. Race out the overhang on decent holds but don't get your hopes up because they quickly turn to crap. Bust out to a right-hand gaston to make the second last clip then recover for the last few moves to the chains. |
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4 |
-1 | Luck's Up | Sport | 5.12b |
|
65 | 1 |
Follow a trail for about 200 feet to the right and around the corner from Phantasia to an overhanging section of the cliff. Several feet right of a corner is this bolted route ascending the greenish face. Boulder the first few bolts then continue through sketchy blocks, moss, and damp holds to the chains. Say goodbye to this section of the cliff because you'll probably never be back. |
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5 |
-1 | Count Floyd Show | Sport | 5.11b |
|
70 | 1 |
This route is located about 15 feet left and around the corner from Creature Feature (left of the approach trail). Climb up to the low ledge to start. |
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6 |
-1 | Creep Show | Sport | 5.10d |
|
70 | 1 |
This is the bolted route 10 feet left of Count Floyd Show. It begins on the same low ledge. |
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7 |
-1 | Pogue Ethics | Sport | 5.10b |
|
80 | 1 |
Either walk far to the left of the previous climbs or take the alternate approach described in the directions to the wall. Look for a bolted line near an arete on a buttress with plated features. If you take the alternate approach, the route will be at the end of the approach trail. |
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8 |
-1 | Perverse Intentions | Sport | 5.10a |
|
40 | 1 |
This is the bolted route directly left of the left-facing flake Grand Bazaar. |
Steepness: |
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9 |
-1 | Grand Bazaar | Trad | 5.10a |
|
65 | 1 |
This route ascends a wide, left-facing flake about 200 feet right of Pogue Ethics and directly right of the bolted line Perverse Intentions. |
Steepness: |
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10 |
-1 | Le Petite Bazaar | Trad | 5.5 |
|
25 | 1 |
This route climbs a short, shallow dihedral about 100 feet right of Grand Bazaar. |
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11 |
-1 | Bobsledding | Trad | 5.7 |
|
60 | 1 |
This route is located left of the alternate approach. Locate a rockhouse about 50 feet left of Pogue Ethics. Climb the crack in the rockhouse to a ledge. |
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12 |
-1 | Lord of the Flies | Sport | 5.9 |
|
40 | 1 |
This route ascends the bolted face about 75 feet left of Bobsledding. |
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12a |
-1 | Over the Flies | Trad | 5.5 |
|
40 | 1 |
Climb the crack between Overlord and Lord of the Flies. |
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12b |
-1 | Overlord | Sport | 5.10b |
|
0 | 1 |
Walk to the left of Lord of the Flies around the corner to another bolted route. |
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12c |
-1 | You Got Served | Trad | 5.8 |
|
60 | 1 |
Climb handcrack to a left leaning Offwidth flake. |
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13 |
-1 | Attack of the Sand Shark | Trad | 5.9- |
|
70 | 1 |
Walk to the left of Lord of the Flies around the corner to a dihedral with a roof at the top. Climb the left crack to a ledge, continue up the crack and rap from manky webbing below the roof. Or bring a knife, some fresh nylon, a few quick links and fix that shit. |
Steepness: |
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14 |
-1 | St. Alfonso's | Trad | 5.7 |
|
80 | 1 |
Walk 25 feet left from Attack of the Sand Shark to locate a wide handcrack. Climb the crack to a ledge. |
Steepness: |
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15 |
-1 | Tomfoolery | Trad | 5.5 |
|
40 | 1 |
Walk around the corner 40 feet left of the previous route to this layback crack. |
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Please select a grade
Climber | Lead | Attempts | Date | PM Climber |
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Climber | Date Projected | PM |
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Whoa.. you're green behind the ears!
How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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