Lower Small Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.8 25 - - 25
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Directions to Lower Small Wall

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. KY 77 curves left near an old barn while KY 715 continues straight. Stay on KY 715 (don't take the curve to the left) for about 5.2 miles (0.7 miles from the pulloff for Tower) to a pulloff on the right. The pulloff will be directly across from a wide, rectangular boulder on the left side of the road. Hike uphill just right of the boulder following a faint trail. When the trail ends, head straight up to the wall. You will probably end up somewhere around the vicinity of Blue Biner. If you are lost when you get to the wall, just look for an obvious, sharp, clean and wide dihedral which is Dicey at Best.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

 Dicey at Best Trad 5.8+
 
 4.44  (27) 150ft

2

 Stinger Trad 5.10b
 
 150ft  

3

 Stratocaster Trad 5.8
 
 3.00  (2) 150ft  

4

 Good Tang Trad 5.7
 
 4.24  (29) 150ft

5

 DAB Chimney Trad 5.2
 
 2.17  (6) 30ft  

6

 The Spider Squat Trad 5.7
 
 2.50  (8) 150ft  

6a

 Poon Tang Trad 5.11a
 
 5.00  (1) 115ft

7

 Pogue's Path Trad 5.1
 
 1.00  (4) 150ft  

8

 Double Caves Crack Trad 5.3
 
 3.22  (9) 150ft  

9

 Caterpillar Crack Trad 5.6
 
 1.63  (8) 50ft  

10

 Blue Biner Trad 5.9
 
 4.15  (20) 150ft

10a

 Elevator Out Of Service Trad 5.11b
 
 50ft  

11

 Lost Dart Trad 5.2
 
 1.67  (6) 50ft  

12

 Lost Dart Crack Trad 5.8
 
 2.67  (6) 50ft  

13

 Poison Ivy Trad 5.8+
 
 150ft  

14

 That's Enough of This Beene Shit Trad 5.10d
 
 50ft  

15

 Eggshell Trad 5.8
 
 55ft  

15a

 Dancing Outlaw Trad A2
 
 150ft  

16

 Delirium Tremors Trad 5.5
 
 3.33  (3) 90ft  

17

 4M Trad 5.10b
 
 3.00  (2) 45ft  

18

 Invasion of the Love Queens Trad 5.8+
 
 2.50  (2) 80ft  

19

 Shattered Trad 5.6
 
 50ft

19a

 Leftout Trad 5.7
 
 2.00  (1) 50ft  

20

 Der Kommissar Trad 5.9
 
 3.00  (1) 70ft  

21

 The Green Wombat Trad 5.8
 
 100ft  

Comments

6 comments {add your own comments}
1
Josephine said on September 22nd, 2008
if you have free time and a chain saw, the approach trail could use a bit of lovin. as is, it's easy to locate and the yellow surveyors tape helped. it just involved a bit of limbo-ing to get through the downed trees in one section. and be sure to keep your eye out for copperheads at the base while you're looking up trying to figure out which route is which. i almost stepped on a big fat one that was settled into a piles of leaves!
2
Anonymous said on September 23rd, 2008
Isnt this area in Clifty Wilderness ? Which would mean no power tools such as chainsaws.
3
pawilkes said on July 17th, 2009
Anyone know if trees provide good shade at the base of Lower Small Wall during the summer?
4
Ascentionist said on July 20th, 2009
They do, but the humidity amplifies the sunbeams and will fry you alive if you step out of the shade for a split second.
5
caribe said on June 5th, 2011
Park @ 37.81965,-83.591795
6
MikeWilkinson said on December 2nd, 2017
This place is awesome. Great winter crag for a day of trad multipitch.