Lower Small Wall

{directions} | {routes} | {comments}

Grade	Trad	Mixed	Sport	Total
5.8	25	-	-	25

Directions to Lower Small Wall

This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.

From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. KY 77 curves left near an old barn while KY 715 continues straight. Stay on KY 715 (don't take the curve to the left) for about 5.2 miles (0.7 miles from the pulloff for Tower) to a pulloff on the right. The pulloff will be directly across from a wide, rectangular boulder on the left side of the road. Hike uphill just right of the boulder following a faint trail. When the trail ends, head straight up to the wall. You will probably end up somewhere around the vicinity of Blue Biner. If you are lost when you get to the wall, just look for an obvious, sharp, clean and wide dihedral which is Dicey at Best.

Wall Sun: Unknown

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.

Route	Spray	Name	Type	Grade	User Stars	Length	Picture
0 1	-1	Dicey at Best	Trad	12 5.8+	4.46 (28)	150 150ft	1
1 2	-1	Stinger	Trad	18 5.10b		150 150ft	0
2 3	-1	Stratocaster	Trad	11 5.8	3.00 (2)	150 150ft	0
3 4	-1	Good Tang	Trad	8 5.7	4.29 (31)	150 150ft	1
4 5	-1	DAB Chimney	Trad	2 5.2	2.17 (6)	30 30ft	0
5 6	-1	The Spider Squat	Trad	8 5.7	2.33 (9)	150 150ft	0
6 6a	-1	Poon Tang	Trad	24 5.11a	5.00 (1)	115 115ft	1
7 7	-1	Pogue's Path	Trad	1 5.1	1.00 (4)	150 150ft	0
8 8	-1	Double Caves Crack	Trad	3 5.3	3.22 (9)	150 150ft	0
9 9	-1	Caterpillar Crack	Trad	6 5.6	1.70 (10)	50 50ft	0
10 10	-1	Blue Biner	Trad	14 5.9	4.14 (22)	150 150ft	1
11 10a	-1	Elevator Out Of Service	Trad	25 5.11b		50 50ft	0
12 11	-1	Lost Dart	Trad	2 5.2	1.67 (6)	50 50ft	0
13 12	-1	Lost Dart Crack	Trad	11 5.8	2.67 (6)	50 50ft	0
14 13	-1	Poison Ivy	Trad	12 5.8+		150 150ft	0
15 14	-1	That's Enough of This Beene Shit	Trad	21 5.10d		50 50ft	0
16 15	-1	Eggshell	Trad	11 5.8		55 55ft	0
17 15a	-1	Dancing Outlaw	Trad	-1 A2		150 150ft	0
18 16	-1	Delirium Tremors	Trad	5 5.5	3.33 (3)	90 90ft	0
19 17	-1	4M	Trad	18 5.10b	3.00 (2)	45 45ft	0
20 18	-1	Invasion of the Love Queens	Trad	12 5.8+	2.50 (2)	80 80ft	0
21 19	-1	Shattered	Trad	6 5.6		50 50ft	1
22 19a	-1	Leftout	Trad	8 5.7	2.00 (1)	50 50ft	0
23 20	-1	Der Kommissar	Trad	14 5.9	3.00 (1)	70 70ft	1
24 21	-1	The Green Wombat	Trad	11 5.8		100 100ft	0

Comments

6 comments {add your own comments}

Josephine said on September 22nd, 2008

if you have free time and a chain saw, the approach trail could use a bit of lovin. as is, it's easy to locate and the yellow surveyors tape helped. it just involved a bit of limbo-ing to get through the downed trees in one section. and be sure to keep your eye out for copperheads at the base while you're looking up trying to figure out which route is which. i almost stepped on a big fat one that was settled into a piles of leaves!

Anonymous said on September 23rd, 2008

Isnt this area in Clifty Wilderness ? Which would mean no power tools such as chainsaws.

pawilkes said on July 18th, 2009

Anyone know if trees provide good shade at the base of Lower Small Wall during the summer?

Ascentionist said on July 21st, 2009

They do, but the humidity amplifies the sunbeams and will fry you alive if you step out of the shade for a split second.

caribe said on June 5th, 2011

Park @ 37.81965,-83.591795

MikeWilkinson said on December 2nd, 2017

This place is awesome. Great winter crag for a day of trad multipitch.

Route details are copyright Ray Ellington, John Bronaugh, and other Red River Gorge climbers. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. The information in this guidebook is subject to error and should supplement never replace common sense and caution, competent guidance and instruction, and actually being outside. One should be especially cautious on matters of route length, descent type, and number of bolts (especially since such things do change occasionally).

redriverclimbing.com: red river gorge guide

Lower Small Wall

Directions to Lower Small Wall

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