Lower Small Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.8 25 - - 25
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Directions to Lower Small Wall

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. KY 77 curves left near an old barn while KY 715 continues straight. Stay on KY 715 (don't take the curve to the left) for about 5.2 miles (0.7 miles from the pulloff for Tower) to a pulloff on the right. The pulloff will be directly across from a wide, rectangular boulder on the left side of the road. Hike uphill just right of the boulder following a faint trail. When the trail ends, head straight up to the wall. You will probably end up somewhere around the vicinity of Blue Biner. If you are lost when you get to the wall, just look for an obvious, sharp, clean and wide dihedral which is Dicey at Best.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Dicey at Best Trad 5.8+
 
150
Look for an obvious, wide dihedral beginning on a ledge. Climb the crack to a ledge and belay. Continue up the crack system to a roof, then traverse right along a ledge. Scramble up to a tree. Steepness:

2

Stinger Trad 5.10b
 
150  
This route ascends the rotten crack system 15 feet right of Dicey at Best. Climb up to and over a bulge and belay on the ledge. Steepness:

3

Stratocaster Trad 5.8
 
150  
This route is located 75 feet right of Stinger, past an ugly dihedral and behind a tree. Climb through a couple of overhangs and belay. Follow a crack to the top of a flake, move over a bulge and into an alcove. Traverse right 50 feet along an unprotected ledge then up a short face to the top. Steepness:

4

Good Tang Trad 5.7
 
150
Walk about 250 feet right of Stratocaster, past a black-topped boulder and a small stream. Look for an acute dihedral with a couple of overhangs. The route does not look like it could only be 5.7 from the ground. Climb up to the overhangs to a large belay ledge on the right and belay. Tackle the first overhang and bail out left or continue up through the second overhang to a large ledge. The third pitch climbs the chimney to the top. Steepness:
Tags
steep-1 : fun-1 : adventerous-1 : classic-1 : stout-1 : long-1 : scary-1 : exposed-1

5

DAB Chimney Trad 5.2
 
30  
This route ascends the short A-shaped chimney to the starting ledge for Dicey at Best. Steepness:

6

The Spider Squat Trad 5.7
 
150  
This route ascends the left-facing dihedral around the corner and to the left of Dicey at Best. Climb the dihedral to a ledge under an overhang. Move up and left and traverse the face around the corner, heading toward a tree. Climb the right side of a roof through an overhanging dihedral, stop at the ledge and belay. Finish on the short face to the summit. Steepness:

6a

Poon Tang Trad 5.11a
 
115
Climb the first pitch of Spider Squat to a ledge and belay. Climb through a short offwidth to another ledge, and stare at the giant roof directly above you. Climb up a handcrack to the roof, then stem and chimney your way out the roof. Negotiate a way down and around the lip, then wrestle your way up the offwidth to another ledge and belay. Continue up through another short offwidth to a tree and rappel. One 70 meter rope makes it to the ground; one 60 meter rope will require 2 rappels. Bring several #4-5 Camalots. Steepness:

7

Pogue's Path Trad 5.1
 
150  
Walk 100 feet left of the Spider Squat or a few feet right of Double Caves Crack until you see a short crack which leads up to a 10ft ledge on the right. Head right along the ledge and up a stubby flake with a left-angling jamcrack. Continue up easier ground to the large ledge on the right. Skirt left along the ledge past a small pool of water to a short crack or face which leads to another ledge. Scramble to the top. Steepness:

8

Double Caves Crack Trad 5.3
 
150  
This route ascends a wide crack in a dihedral about 100 feet left of Spider Squat and a few feet left of a short crack leading to a ledge. Climb the crack to a ledge and move through an opening to a rockhouse. Chimney up the crack to a belay ledge and continue to the top. Steepness:

9

Caterpillar Crack Trad 5.6
 
50  
This route ascends the right-facing dihedral a few feet left of Double Caves Crack. Climb the crack to a ledge and belay. Move right along the ledge to Double Caves Crack. Steepness:

10

Blue Biner Trad 5.9
 
150
This route ascends the twin cracks about 50 feet left of Caterpillar Crack. Climb the twin cracks to an overhang, move left at the overhang and pull to a ledge. Belay from the ledge then climb the double overhangs and face to the top. Steepness:

10a

Elevator Out Of Service Trad 5.11b
 
50  
Start 12' left of Lost Dart Crack at a set of double cracks. Climb both cracks until the left one fades. Continue locking up the right crack to the anchors on Lost Dart. Steepness:

11

Lost Dart Trad 5.2
 
50  
This route ascends the pinnacle around the corner and 50 feet left of Blue Biner. Chimney up the left side of the pinnacle and wiggle through to the other side. Chimeny and face climb to the top. Steepness:

12

Lost Dart Crack Trad 5.8
 
50  
This route is located in the passageway formed by Lost Dart leaning against the wall. Climb the crack which leads to a dihedral and move right to the anchors on Lost Dart (if there are any). Steepness:

13

Poison Ivy Trad 5.8+
 
150  
Walk 100 feet left from Lost Dart to a vine choked crack system. Climb the fingercrack to a ledge on the right and belay. Take the dihedral to a roof, then traverse to a crack, and follow it to a belay ledge. Steepness:

14

That's Enough of This Beene Shit Trad 5.10d
 
50  
Climb the sketcy dihedral 15 feet left and around the corner from Poison Ivy. Steepness:

15

Eggshell Trad 5.8
 
55  
Walk left a few feet from That's Enough of This Beene Shit to a large block under a low roof. Climb the crack on the right side of the block to an alcove. Steepness:

15a

Dancing Outlaw Trad A2
 
150  
This long and difficult aid line begins 80 feet left of Eggshell, 20 feet left of a large tree set back about 30 feet from the cliff. Climb a short slab to gain a thin flake. Climb the flake to a ledge about 25 feet up, then continue up through a long, arching crack in white rock until it wanes. Pull a small roof and head for bolted anchors just beneath a large roof with a V-shaped slot. Aid through the slot and move right and up to the largest roof. Follow a thin seam out and right, then head for the summit. Watch out for wasps. Bring a standard aid rack up to 5. Steepness:

16

Delirium Tremors Trad 5.5
 
90  
This route ascends a dihedral 50 feet left of the large block near Eggshell. Steepness:

17

4M Trad 5.10b
 
45  
This route ascends the right-angling fingercrack about 50 feet left of Delirium Tremors. Climb the crack and face to a ledge with a tree. Steepness:

18

Invasion of the Love Queens Trad 5.8+
 
80  
This route ascends a hand crack beginning on a ledge 200 feet left of 4M. Scramble up to the ledge and climb the crack to a larger ledge. Steepness:

19

Shattered Trad 5.6
 
50
Bushwack 250 feet left of Invasion of the Love Queens and around a couple of buttresses to a pair of dihedrals. Climb up to the 10 feet high ledge, then climb the face between the two cracks to a ledge. Traverse left to a belay. Traverse farther left to rappel. Steepness:

19a

Leftout Trad 5.7
 
50  
Climb the crack left of Shattered. Steepness:

20

Der Kommissar Trad 5.9
 
70  
This route is located left of Shattered. Chimney and face climb to an overhang and continue up a dihedral to a ledge. Walk left to rappel. Steepness:

21

The Green Wombat Trad 5.8
 
100  
Walk 75 feet left of Der Kommissar, past a dihedral, and up a slope to a crack. Climb the crack to a ledge and belay. Continue up through a bolder then belay. Traverse right to another crack and take it to the top. Steepness:

Comments

1
Josephine said on September 22nd, 2008
if you have free time and a chain saw, the approach trail could use a bit of lovin. as is, it's easy to locate and the yellow surveyors tape helped. it just involved a bit of limbo-ing to get through the downed trees in one section. and be sure to keep your eye out for copperheads at the base while you're looking up trying to figure out which route is which. i almost stepped on a big fat one that was settled into a piles of leaves!
2
Anonymous said on September 23rd, 2008
Isnt this area in Clifty Wilderness ? Which would mean no power tools such as chainsaws.
3
pawilkes said on July 18th, 2009
Anyone know if trees provide good shade at the base of Lower Small Wall during the summer?
4
Ascentionist said on July 21st, 2009
They do, but the humidity amplifies the sunbeams and will fry you alive if you step out of the shade for a split second.
5
caribe said on June 5th, 2011
Park @ 37.81965,-83.591795
6
MikeWilkinson said on December 2nd, 2017
This place is awesome. Great winter crag for a day of trad multipitch.