Middle Small Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 13 - - 14
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Directions to Middle Small Wall

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. KY 77 curves left near an old barn while KY 715 continues straight. Stay on KY 715 (don't take the curve to the left) for about 5.7 miles (0.5 miles past the pulloff for Lower Small Wall) to a large pulloff on the right just past a ravine on the left. Look for the trailhead just to the right of the ravine. Follow the faint trail up and right then wind back to the left a bit and head straight up to the wall. If you followed the trail you will come out to the right of a stream and a pile of boulders. Walk left past the pile of boulders and look for two cracks which converge and head to the top of the wall through a series of overhangs. That is The Quest.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

The Quest Trad 5.10c
 
220
Start in the left of the two cracks mentioned in the approach and climb through technical and thin cracks to a ledge with some loose rock directly beneath a roof. Pull through the roof and continue to a belay ledge on the right. The second pitch follows the thin hands crack in the overhanging dihedral to a hanging belay directly beneath a large roof. Be careful of setting gear in what looks like a solid crack in the roof but upon closer inspection may eventually be a large loose block. Traverse out the roof and pull into the short offwidth to the top. Steepness:

2

Which Way Is Up Trad 5.10d
 
85  
This route ascends the vague, overhanging crack about 100 feet left from The Quest, around a corner and above a pond of sorts. Climb the crack and face to a ledge. Steepness:

3

Basecamp Trad 5.11b
 
180  
Walk about 40 feet left of Which Way Is Up to a dihedral with a roof about 20 feet up. Climb to the roof, crank up into the dihedral and continue up to a belay beneath a large roof. Move back into the crack system and climb to the roof to protect. Pull the roof to a ledge and belay. Continue up an exposed face with natural pro. Steepness:

3a

Lichen Lung Lunacy Trad 5.10c
 
0  
Walk left 25 feet from Basecamp to locate a wide outward flaring crack that faces to the left due to a detached section of the rock.. Climb the flaring crack for about 30 feet then follow a thin crack until it peters out. Continue up the face finding protection and holds when possible. Eventually head leftward toward a ledge with a bulge and hand sized crack. Continue up this crack to the top. Steepness:

4

Hidey Ho Trad 5.10a
 
175  
This route climbs a chimney system about 5 feet left of Lichen Lung Lunacy. Climb the short chimney to a ledge beneath a rockhouse then continue out a 25 foot roof. Pull the lip and follow a crack to a small belay hole. Head left on a short face to a crack which takes you back right to a belay ledge. Continue up a short slot to the top. Steepness:

5

Investigator Trad 5.7
 
40
This route ascends the left-facing dihedral 50 feet left of Hidey Ho. Descend from a small tree. Steepness:

6

Lactic Acid Trad 5.9
 
40
This route ascends the thin crack on the face left of Investigator. The crack shifts left towards the top. Steepness:

7

Handjob Trad 5.9+
 
80
This obvious splitter begins about 15 feet left of Lactic Acid. Climb the fist crack up and through an offwidth section to a small roof. Move over the roof then dive deep for jams the rest of the way. Steepness:

8

Marmalade Trad 5.9
 
60
This route climbs the splitter, wide crack to the right of an obvious right-facing dihedral which is Layback Crack. Descend by traversing left along a ledge and rappel from the tree above Layback Crack. Steepness:

9

Layback Crack Trad 5.8-
 
60  
This is the obvious right-facing dihedral just left of Marmalade. Scramble up to a ledge to start. Pull over a low roof then make use of fists and armbars to the top. Steepness:

10

Devine Climb Trad 5.8+
 
165  
This route is located 125 feet right from The Quest past a couple of small streams and around a corner. Look for a crack and a low angle face in an obtuse arete and ending on a ledge. Climb to the ledge, walk right and continue up a dihedral to the top. Steepness:

11

Spiderweb Tearoom Trad 5.8
 
150  
Walk a long 400 feet to the right of Devine Climb past some streams, corners and a rockhouse until you are about 50 feet from some large boulders. Look for a right-facing flake with an orange face above. Climb the flake to a ledge and belay. Pull a small overhang then move left on small holds to a ledge. Steepness:

12

Mickey Mantle Trad 5.6
 
30  
Walk 250 feet right of Spiderweb Tearoom to a left-facing dihedral near a small stream. Scramble up to a ledge with trees and climb the crack system left of a slab to a ledge. Steepness:

13

Mantlepiece Toprope 5.10c
 
30  
Climb the edges on the slab right of Mickey Mantle. Steepness:

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