Lady Slipper - Emerald City

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 12 - 9 21
loading

Directions to Lady Slipper - Emerald City

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
Drive 4.8 miles from the Junior Williamson Rest Area (toward Miguel's) on KY 11 and stop at a large grassy area which has an occasional muddy pulloff on the right (near mile marker 4). If you drive to where the rock quarry road heads uphill to your left then you have driven too far. Park and head across the road to a trailhead. Follow the trail uphill to the wall. You will probably end up beneath the ledge which Oz and it's neighboring routes start from. The trail that branches off right continues down to Global Village.

Wall Sun: All day



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Lollipop Kids Sport 5.11b
 
70
At the end of the approach trail is a 20 foot high ledge with a gully approach. Scramble up the gully to access this and other routes. This route is the rightmost route that starts on this ledge. Steepness:

2

Oz Sport 5.11c
 
70  
This is the next route to the left of Lollipop Kids and starts on the same ledge. Steepness:
Tags
technical-2

3

Diamond in the Rough Sport 5.10c
 
80  
This bolted route is to the left of Oz. Steepness:

4

Ruby Slippers Sport 5.11a
 
70
This route is to the left of Diamond in the Rough and begins just to the right of a large hueco. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-1

5

Flying Monkeys Sport 5.11c
 
70  
This route is to the left of Ruby Slippers and climbs out of the large hueco. Steepness:

5a

Toto's Escape Trad 5.10a
 
85
Scramble up to the ledge routes, complete the improbably easy low fifth class traverse to the smaller hueco to the left, and build a belay. Find a way out of the hueco and get established in the crack. Using a variety of small face holds along the way and increasingly insecure jams, climb the ever-narrowing splitter crack to a hard move before some bushes block the way. Fight your way through the bushes and head up a short ramp of black rock until heading right to finish at the top of the cliff. Steepness:

6

Spiny Norman Trad 5.9+
 
120  
Walk left past the large ledge from which the bolted lines start from to a handcrack with a couple of overhangs. Steepness:

7

Friable Trad 5.9
 
120  
This route is located about 250 feet from the end of the approach trail and is marked by two cracks about 15 feet apart leading to an overhang. Begin by climbing the crack on the right to the overhang then move left to a corner for a belay. Continue up a crack through another overhang and follow the arching crack to the right. You can belay where the crack splits before it arches right to reduce rope drag. Steepness:

7a

The Man Behind the Curtain Trad 5.11a
 
40
Begin by climbing Whiteout but finish to the tree ledge out right instead of at the anchors out left. From the big tree on the ledge, rap halfway down the wall to a small ledge. Crawl around the arete and end up at a small belay stance below this extremely steep, featureless, acute dihedral. Climb the crack to chain anchors. Hand sized pieces for the belay, fingers for the crack Steepness:

8

Whiteout Trad 5.8
 
100
This route is located about 100 feet left of Friable near the main arete of the wall where No Place Like Home begins. Climb up easy ground via a left-facing flake and belay. Continue up the handcrack in a dihedral and move left onto the face when the crack fades out. Steepness:
Tags
steep-1 : fun-2 : adventerous-1 : long-1 : hands-1 : juggy-1

8

Whiteout Direct Sport 5.9
 
40  
This is the bolted line directly beneath the main dihedral of Whiteout. Steepness:

9

No Place Like Home Sport 5.11c
 
100
This route ascends the obvious arete visible from the road to the left of Whiteout. Begin by climbing Whiteout then move to an alcove beneath an overhang. Continue up the arete to some anchors. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-2 : classic-2 : arete-1 : beautiful-4 : exposed-2 : sunny-1

10

Sharp Trad 5.9
 
45
Walk around the corner from Whiteout to a hand and fistcrack. Lower from anchors or traverse left to another set. Steepness:

11

Father's Day Trad 5.5
 
100  
In the dihedral left of �Sharp� is this climb. Climb the easy first pitch to a huge ledge, belay. Climb the right angling dihedral to the top. Double-Rope rappel from trees, or single rope down to the big ledge, then walk off. Steepness:

12

Pumped Puppies Trad 5.10b
 
50  
Move 100 feet left of Sharp past a couple of dihedrals to an overhanging face. Climb a thin crack and face to a ledge. Move right with no pro up a rib of rock to the top. Steepness:

13

Scarecrow Trad 5.10c
 
140
From the end of the approach trail (beneath Diamond in the Rough), head right about 400 feet to locate three cracks which merge 30 feet up in a dihedral. Climb the left crack to a roof then move left to a corner. Get some gear near the corner then move left to a fingercrack and take it to a ledge. Continue up easier ground to a ledge with a tree then ascends a short face to the summit. Steepness:

14

Yellow Brick Road Sport 5.11b
 
50
Walk around the corner 100 feet from Scarecrow to a thin detached boulder about 15 feet high. To the right of the boulder you will see a nice looking, short bolted line. Climb to some shuts. Steepness:

15

The Shining Trad 5.8+
 
30
Walk 50 feet right from Yellow Brick Road to locate this obvious, short fingercrack in black rock. Steepness:

15a

Roar of the Cowardly Lion Trad 5.9
 
50
This crack is located just a couple of minutes past The Shining. The first half is overhanging fist crack in a left facing dihedral, into an offwidth crux, followed by a sit down rest and finished with a squeeze chimney for the last half to a dirty top out (rap rings/webbing anchor on tree to the left) Steepness:

16

The Bulge Sport 5.12a
 
45  
Walk 75 feet right of The Shining to a bolted line with a large bulge at the top. Boulder the start and continue to the anchors. Steepness:

17

T N T Trad 5.10b
 
80
This interesting looking route is located in a dihedral 50 feet right of The Bulge. Stem and lock to a ledge and rappel or continue to the top. Steepness:

Comments

1
ray said on November 1st, 2003
This wall can get extremely hot.
2
Roentgen Ray said on July 4th, 2004
The consumate winter crag.
3
jlu said on November 22nd, 2005
Home to some GREAT climbing, unique and technical routes very different from the usual pumpy jug-hauls... my new favorite wall!
4
mike_anderson said on April 6th, 2009
This wall can be very wet after a rain. Routes 1-5 were waterfalls on 5 Apr 09.
5
Jeff said on April 14th, 2012
To the Douche Nozzle who butchered the tree that was barely touching Diamond In The Rough, great work asshole! Another few years and the root system will be gone too.
6
Anonymous said on November 7th, 2018
What is the climb with the memorial plaque at the bottom?