Lady Slipper - Global Village

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.6 8 1 13 22
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Directions to Lady Slipper - Global Village

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
Drive 4.8 miles from the Junior Williamson Rest Area (toward Miguel's) on KY 11 and stop at a large grassy area which has an occasional muddy pulloff on the right. If you drive to where the rock quarry road heads uphill to your left then you have driven too far. Park and head across the road to a trailhead. When the trail branches off to the right (near a boulder), follow it for ahwile past a couple of ravines. Hike uphill past the second ravine to the main arete of the wall.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1a

Off with Batman Trad 5.7
 
85
This line takes on the wide crack left of Eureka. Begin on the ledge and use all the techniques you can't learn in a climbing gym to get to the top. Steepness:

1b

Nailbiter Sport 5.12-
 
75  
Steepness:

2

Eureka Sport 5.6
 
85
This route is located near the obvious main arete on the wall as you near the end of the approach trail. Walk left from the main arete and look for a yellowish face with an overhanging headwall. The route ascending this face is The Wheel of Time. Keep walking to the left and look for another bolted line on a plated face which is Eureka. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-2 : shady-1 : juggy-2

3

Howard Roark Trad 5.9+
 
100
This route is to the right of “Eureka”. Scamper up and behind a rhododendron. Begin jamming in an overhanging dihedral and climb to the top of the cliff. The width of this crack varies. The top out is difficult, as there is a steep vegetated hill to claw up. Finally, move left to a rock ledge and belay. Rappel from a large tree. Steepness:

4

The Wheel of Time Sport 5.13b
 
80  
Walk right from Eureka to the yellowish face with an overhanging headwall to find this bolted line. Steepness:

5

Father and Son Trad 5.7
 
40
This route begins about 30 feet right of The Wheel of Time in a flake and ends at some anchors on a ledge. Steepness:

6

Kentucky Pinstripe Sport 5.10a
 
80
Walk around the corner to the right of Father and Son to locate this next line of bolts. Steepness:
Tags
fun-6 : long-3 : arete-1 : sunny-2

7

Vision Trad 5.7
 
80
This line ascends the flake just to the right of Kentucky Pinstripe. Head right at the end of the flake to a handcrack and take it to the top. Steepness:

8

Jake Flake Trad 5.8
 
80  
This route ascends the next seam to the right of Vision. Take the seam to a flake and continue on face to the top. Steepness:

9

Chain Mail Mixed 5.11d
 
100  
Walk right about 75 feet from the main arete of the wall to locate a bolted face which begins in some sandy rock. Climb past some short cracks and place protection if desired. Continue up through the line of bolts to chain anchors. Steepness:

10

Deep Six Sport 5.12b
 
110
This route ascends a slighty overhanging face 20 feet right of Chain Mail. Steepness:
Tags
adventerous-1 : classic-3 : beautiful-2

11

Wreaking Havoc Sport 5.11d
 
80  
Walk 30 feet right of Deep Six to a bolted line which shares it's start with the next line to the right. Steepness:

12

The Frayed Ends of Sanity Sport 5.12a
 
80  
Start on the same moves as Wreaking Havoc the move right through some roofs and ledges. Steepness:

13

Pain is a Spice Trad 5.7
 
35  
This route ascends the short fingercrack to the right of The Frayed Ends of Sanity. Lower off fixed gear just over the roof. Steepness:

14

Disappearer Sport 5.11c
 
70
Walk 30 feet right from Pain is a Spice to the next bolted line. Climb to anchors on a sloping ledge beneath a headwall. Steepness:

15

Loosen Up Sport 5.10b
 
50
This bolted line ascends a slightly overhanging face 20 feet right from Disappearer and near a corner. Steepness:

16

Seeker Sport 5.12b
 
50
Walk to the right and uphill from Loosen Up to an upper cliff band. Walk left past some sport routes to a wide crack near a boulder. Climb the crack and arete then move right to a face and end on a ledge. Steepness:

17

Circa Man Sport 5.10d
 
60
This bolted line ascends the slab 30 feet right of Seeker to a small overhang. Steepness:

18

Out For Justice Sport 5.11c
 
65
This bolted line begins on overhanging pockets 25 feet right of Circa Man. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : crimpy-1 : sharp-1 : stout-1 : technical-1

19

Down By Law Sport 5.11c
 
65
This line ascends the pocketed face to the right of Out For Justice before you get to Casual Viewing. Steepness:

20

Casual Viewing Trad 5.7
 
70
This route ascends the flake in an obtuse dihedral 20 feet right of Down By Law. Steepness:

21

Suede Bananas Trad 5.7
 
50  
Dirty dihedral 90 feet left of Casual Viewing. Hands to easy stemming. Rap from trees. Steepness:

Comments

1
djmitche said on September 7th, 2005
The hike in is incredible!
2
p0bray01 said on October 23rd, 2007
Are there any routes to the left of Eureka?
3
Anonymous said on October 24th, 2007
Rumors...
4
AdSprad said on August 31st, 2008
I agree...I feel like ewoks are going to jump out, on the awesome fern entrance.
5
Josephine said on July 22nd, 2009
unless you have a very young/agile puppy that is an excellent scrambler, it may be best to leave the dog at home. one of my partners forgot about all the steep parts in the trail and ended up having to carry his older dog through several places.
6
sgauss said on September 8th, 2009
Trying out my GPS receiver...parking is at N 37 45.053, W 083 39.845, and the crag (Eureka) is N 37 45.109, W 083 39.451
7
pdpcardsfan said on December 4th, 2012
Anyone know what the bolted arĂȘte climb to the left of Eureka about 75' is?
8
Anonymous said on December 4th, 2012
really good 12a or so
9
Anonymous said on December 4th, 2012
How shiny are those bolts out of curiosity?
10
amarius said on October 3rd, 2016
Dustonian posted on mountainproject.com that the climb around the corner and left from Eureka is 75 ft, 8 bolt 5.12- named "Nailbiter"
11
njclimber said on October 19th, 2017
Aggressive ground bee nest at first creek crossing with handline as of 19oct17. Friend got lit up about 20 times.
12
Anonymous said on May 9th, 2018
Does anyone know if the ground bees on the approach trail are still around?
13
Anonymous said on August 8th, 2018
Does anyone know if the ground bees on the approach trail are still around?
14
Anonymous said on August 8th, 2018
Real target systems are seldom epistemically isomorphic to axiomatic-deductive models/systems.