Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.7 13 5 35 53
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Directions to Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Graining Fork Nature Preserve
This wall is in property owned by Graining Fork Nature Preserve. Be respectful.
Drive 6.2 miles south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11 from the Junior Williamson Rest Area. Turn right into a large picnic area. Park and walk across the road to a trailhead straight across from the south entrance/exit of the parking area. Hike up the trail to the wall. You will probably see the obvious dihedral of Roadside Attraction as you near the wall. Please visit http://grainingfork.org for more information concerning climbing at Roadside Crag. You must obtain a permit at http://grainingfork.org/newpermit before climbing at Roadside.

Wall Sun: All day

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Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

Roadside Attraction Trad 5.7
 
4.72  (135) 140ft

2

Runnin' Down a Dream Mixed 5.10a
 
3.70  (10) 75ft

3

Jump For Joy Sport 5.9+
 
2.45  (86) 50ft

4

Motha Trad 5.6
 
3.09  (66) 50ft

5

Fadda Sport 5.10a
 
3.27  (101) 50ft

6

Five Finger Discount Trad 5.8
 
4.11  (79) 50ft

7

Science Friction Sport 5.12c
 
4.33  (3) 70ft  

8

Hard Left Mixed 5.10a
 
3.55  (22) 70ft

9

Hemisfear Sport 5.11d
 
4.53  (19) 40ft

10

Home Is Where the Heart Is Mixed 5.12a
 
4.00  (3) 40ft

11

Mantel Route Mixed 5.10c
 
4.89  (18) 60ft

12

Headwall Sport 5.12b
 
5.00  (1) 90ft  

13

Wicked Games Sport 5.12d
 
4.00  (1) 85ft

14

Andromeda Strain Trad 5.9+
 
4.59  (39) 90ft

15

Milkin' the Chicken Mixed 5.11d
 
2.67  (9) 50ft  

16

A.W.O.L. Sport 5.10a
 
3.72  (156) 50ft

17

Battle of the Bulge Trad 5.10a
 
2.50  (4) 80ft

18

Dragonslayer Sport 5.10d
 
3.54  (78) 50ft

19

Crazyfingers Sport 5.10c
 
3.84  (114) 50ft

20

Pulling Pockets Sport 5.10d
 
4.02  (127) 50ft

21

Synchronicity Trad 5.11a
 
4.45  (47) 50ft

22

Jersey Connection Sport 5.12b
 
4.00  (44) 50ft

23

Stay the Hand Sport 5.12a
 
4.25  (53) 50ft

24

Stay the Hand (Direct Start) Sport 5.12c
 
4.00  (1) 15ft  

25

Valor Over Discretion Sport 5.8
 
2.44  (80) 50ft

26

Psycho Killer Trad 5.10c
 
2.00  (1) 50ft  

27

Harder Than Your Husband Trad 5.11b
 
3.00  (13) 40ft  

28

Holly Golightly Trad 5.10b
 
3.00  (1) 0ft  

29

Scissors Sport 5.11d
 
3.37  (35) 50ft

30

Ro Shampo Sport 5.12a
 
4.55  (146) 60ft

31

Tic-tac-toe Sport 5.12b
 
4.19  (36) 60ft

32

Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure Sport 5.11d
 
2.50  (6) 100ft  

33

Strevels Gets In Shape Sport 5.12b
 
3.88  (24) 90ft

34

Wild Gift Sport 5.12c
 
4.80  (69) 45ft

35

Camel Toe Jockey Trad 5.9
 
2.20  (5) 40ft  

36

Way Up Yonder Sport 5.12a
 
4.03  (35) 95ft

37

Up Yonder Sport 5.11b
 
3.68  (80) 40ft

38

Sand Sport 5.11d
 
2.33  (6) 45ft  

38a

Release the Kraken Sport 5.12b
 
3.91  (11) 95ft

39

The Return of Chris Snyder Sport 5.11d
 
4.82  (60) 95ft

40

Pine Sport 5.12a
 
4.34  (32) 95ft

41

Just Duet Sport 5.10d
 
3.64  (53) 70ft  

42

Kampsight Sport 5.9
 
3.46  (82) 80ft

43

Trouble Clef Sport 5.9-
 
3.62  (93) 80ft

44

Altered Scale Sport 5.9+
 
2.80  (65) 80ft

45

All Cows Eat Grass Sport 5.8
 
3.36  (100) 80ft

46

Strawberry Shortcake Trad 5.7
 
2.08  (12) 60ft  

47

Ledger Line Sport 5.7
 
2.98  (102) 0ft

48

C Sharp or B Flat Sport 5.7
 
3.35  (111) 60ft

49

Gumbyland Trad 5.3
 
2.93  (29) 60ft  

50

You Can Tune a Piano, But You Can't Tuna Fish Sport 5.10b
 
3.11  (76) 60ft  

51

I Didn't Know This Was The End Trad 5.7
 
3.33  (3) 150ft  

52

Chunnel Sport 5.13a
 
4.00  (4) 50ft

Comments

1
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2007
Parking instructions in online guide needs correction. The instruction says look for large camping area. But it is posted with no camping signs. It is more like a large picnic area. But we found it yesterday anyway!
2
Lander said on January 6th, 2008
There are too many climbs on the Kampsite slab. It's confusing. My head hurts.
3
Anonymous said on January 24th, 2008
Grid Bolted Jerry Area 35. Just Duet 5.10d *** (S) 36. Kampsight 5.9 *** (S) 37. Trouble Clef 5.9- **** (S) 38. Altered Scale 5.9+ ** (S) 39. All Cows Eat Grass 5.8 *** (S) 40. Strawberry Shortcake 5.7 R ** 41. Ledger Line 5.7 *** (S) 42. C Sharp or B Flat 5.7 *** (S) 42a. Gumbyland 5.3 *** 43. You Can Tune a Piano, But You Can't Tuna Fish 5.10b *** (S)
4
V10Mike said on April 28th, 2008
Anyone know what those three routes are on the hidden wall below the Kampsight slab? How come they're not in the guide?
5
Don McGlone said on May 29th, 2008
I did a route Saturday that may or may not have been done before. It's hard to imagine that someone hasn't done it, but it's not in the guide. Some of the holds seemed clean out to a certain point, but was pretty dirty at and after the crux. Anyhow: Roadside Daydream 5.9+ R Climb Roadside Attraction to the anchors 25 ft. below the top of the cliff. From the anchors, traverse left following good ledges for feet to a thin, slightly rotten flake. Plug as much pro as you can get, then crimp to easier ground. Link up with Runnin' Down A Dream to top out. Nice exposure.
6
pigsteak said on May 29th, 2008
corpse...contrived..please resubmit to the proper bolting commitee for review..may not even consititute a REAL route. :)
7
Don McGlone said on May 29th, 2008
Yea I know, but I couldn't find any committee members anywhere. I drove down to MV and parked under the no parking sign and came looking for you with my dog, but to no avail. Besides, it's so hard to rap-bolt a traverse! :)
8
pigsteak said on May 29th, 2008
You didn't have the proper ID and parking permit my friend. And I can help you with the rap bolt traverse dilemma..I am good at putting bolts every two feet for safety.
9
mpittdawg said on June 14th, 2009
New start to the approach trail added today. It starts directly across the street from the parking lot now. It is further away from that curve that cars come roaring around and less steep. Please start to use this one so it can be further developed. Great job RRGCC!
10
pkananen said on June 15th, 2009
great job with the new trail location. much safer.
11
sgauss said on September 8th, 2009
Trying out my GPS...parking is at latitude 37.73335, longitude 83.65913
12
Anonymous said on September 17th, 2009
any info on the route just right of sand?
13
Jrodan said on September 10th, 2010
The guy bolting the route to the right of sand was working on it during the summer of 2009. He was going to call it "911 Truther" as a tribute to the conspiracy that brought down the world trade center. He was passing out literature about the cover up in between sessions of jugging the route to hammer off excess choss. He told me (referring to the group of conspiracy theorists), "We can't get into the New York Times, but we can get into the guidebook!" He was pretty close to being done bolting and cleaning, so I climbed it on top-rope; it was about as hard as way up yonder and still pretty chossy. Then the guy abruptly disappeared and it looks like he hasn't worked on it since. Very suspicious...
14
Anonymous said on February 9th, 2014
Why is it closed to the public?
15
Anonymous said on February 9th, 2014
The owners decided they were tired of sharing their private property and "just kinda wanted it for ourselves". Which is cool, because it is theirs and they can do whatever they like with it. But, it's a shame they lacked the balls to say that publicly and instead hide behind a multitude of excuses to blame the community.
16
Anonymous said on May 27th, 2014
No, that's not really cool. It would be cool if they bought some land and then bolted some routes themselves and decided they didn't want anyone to climb there. Instead, they buy an area that someone else spent there time and money bolting and the community enjoyed and then sectioned off what wasn't rightfully theirs just because they had the money to do so. It would be awesome if the government would take that land away from them and give it back to us!
17
Anonymous said on April 4th, 2015
FUCK YEAH JOHN AND GRANT!!!! THIS SHIT IS ON PARTY AT ROADSIDE!! just kidding. Stay the hand, forever!
18
Raiden said on April 24th, 2015
A permit is required to climb at Roadside and can be obtained here: http://grainingfork.org/gate-access-permit/
19
Daeris said on May 27th, 2015
I haven't gotten the chance to climb at Roadside yet, but I hope to shortly. Does anyone know, do some of these routes tend to stay dry on drizzly/rainy days, or is the whole wall a mess?
20
Anonymous said on May 28th, 2015
It can be hit or miss. Also NO DOGS allowed!! Or hammocks. But seriously, NO DOGs!!! Please read the rules so we don't lose this cliff for the seventh time. Thank you
21
Anonymous said on September 24th, 2015
So, is It open for climbing as long as we follow the posted rules?
22
Anonymous said on September 24th, 2015
A permit is required which can be obtained at http://grainingfork.org/newpermit/ please do not climb there without a permit.
23
Ryanwsu4 said on October 4th, 2017
I was at roadside earlier this week and they were checking permits and this guy didn't have one and was all pissed. Don't be a douche and ruin this for us people. Get a permit and just donate a dollar. Don't be an ass and bring your dog or don't get a permit and shut down all of these great lines.
24
:-) said on October 16th, 2017
If you show up with a dog, a beer, or no permit, the other climbers WILL tell you to leave. Don't even try it.
25
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
Crag CLOSED by landowner 11/8/19.
26
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
JFC the constant drama with these people lol 🙄
27
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
Well Ian Kirk/RRFGI was publicly shaming a guy on Facebook that was climbing there at night without a permit. God forbid you contact the guy and tell him he's a dipshit first so the community can try to deal with it, rather than getting the place closed.
28
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
Just keep it closed, sick of hearing all the whining from the land owners. Figure out a better way to police "your crag" or just keep it closed. The community has spent how many hours fixing up your land?
29
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
And boycott Hop's Fork in the meantime, trustafarian pricks
30
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
Close your crag if you are going to cry every time someone doesn't follow the rules, honestly what did you expect to happen? 100% adherence to your rules?? And stop accepting the communities time and money if you are going to continue to throw temper tantrums. Why do people donate time and money to this private crag?
31
Cromper said on November 11th, 2019
Jesus. The guns come out when you can hide behind the guise of anonymity.
32
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
Its true though... You would be a fool to donate your time or energy to Grant's Crag. What is the dude hoping for, 100% compliance of the rules? What a fantasy world he must live in... Either leave it open and accept the communities time and money (improving your land) and accept that unfortunately not everyone will follow the rules...Or close it and keep it closed! The bi-monthly closures and putting climbers in timeout is hilarious :)
33
Cromper said on November 11th, 2019
To my knowledge Grant doesn’t even have a stake in ownership anymore
34
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
We need a RRG version of Instagram's @publiclandshateyou
35
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
Well whoever the current owners are need to close the damn thing for good or put on their big boy pants and stop crying when people don't follow the rules 100% of the time. Reality is calling.
36
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
OK you've made that point now 5 times already. Anything else?
37
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
Is that kinda like shutting down the crag every month to prove a point? Maybe this time those climbers will obey all rules.... Haha!
38
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
"shutting down the crag every month" You mean twice in the last 10 years.
39
Cromper said on November 11th, 2019
I have never understood the entitlement to access that people have at this wall. This crag was never public land or forest service land. If people dont follow the rules the landowner reserves the right to close access. It’s pretty straight forward. There are over a hundred more crags to climb at; get over it.
40
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
I definitely agree, shut it down for good! Climbers (or anyone) will never follow rules 100% of the time, if the land owners cant accept that time to shut it down and stop asking the community to help at trail days.
41
Anonymous said on November 11th, 2019
Bah ha ha. I know 100+ RRG climbers, but I don't know a single one who has been to a trail day at Roadside in the past decade. Roadside did to a lot of erosion control on the slab wall recently, but I think they had an out of town group help with that. Post a picture of yourself building a trail at Roadside and then feel free to continue with that argument. Otherwise stop piggybacking on the volunteer work of people.
42
Anonymous said on November 12th, 2019
Bunch of 5.11 gumbies trying to send a soft 5.12 choss. This crag has nothing spectacular. It should stay closed forever.
43
Anonymous said on November 12th, 2019
That's the dumbest shit I've read in some time. Roadside is full of gems. The 10 wall is some of the best rock we have at the Red, and it's a shame this has happened again. Roadside is an incredible crag, and I hope that something more sustainable can be put in place to secure access in the future.
44
Anonymous said on November 12th, 2019
Follow the rules and get a permit. There seems to be an easy and sustainable solution to crag access in place already.
45
Anonymous said on November 12th, 2019
I was curious how much Access Fund put into Roadside’s trail work last year. I googled, and found the Access Fund’s “Climbing Advocacy Report.” It shows Graining Fork Nature Preserve *donated* between $5,000 and $10,000 to AF last year. In case you wondered where those permit dollars went. Add to that the costs of insurance, running a secure permit website, gas to and from the crag, and the headache of regularly getting lip from the entitled, making trails with your own two hands, I can understand some landowners deciding it’s not worth it. https://www.accessfund.org/uploads/1960_AF_AR-Web_vFinal-LR.pdf
46
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2019
Mischaracterizing the landowners as “crying” for enforcing the reasonable rules they have in place to maintain sustainable, respectful access to their privately owned land is some half-baked nonsense, reveals how limited your logic and reasoning skills are, and helps no one. That’s like saying “Hey if you don’t want my dog to shit in your front lawn, build a fence or shut up.” No. There’s a sign that says “Don’t let your dog shit in my lawn.” And yeah, every now and then a dog is gonna shit in the lawn. But that’s when you get a wag bag and clean up your dogs shit. You DONT lambast the owners for being upset that you’re an irresponsible dog owner. And you DONT post on instagram about how awesome it is that your dog is so good at taking shits. Just... like... be respectful? Some of us actually enjoy climbing at Roadside, and are happy be considerate and play by the rules.
47
Anonymous said on November 13th, 2019
Climbers being placed in Time Out, I love it :)
48
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2019
Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't the landowners purchase the property for the purpose of keeping it out of the hands of developers so that it could remain open for climbers? So shouldn't the analogy be more like, "Hey, I really value dogs, so I'm opening a dog park! But no dogs are allowed to shit in my dark park. No dogs humping in my dog park. No rough dog play in my dog park. And if you break the rules, dogs will no longer be allowed at my dog park."
49
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2019
The landowner's rules are logical and reasonable, yet, frankly, if they wanted to be illogical and unreasonable, that's completely OK, because, you know what, it's private land and they really don't have to let anyone on their property at all. Those of us who live in KY greatly value what the land owners have done and hope to continue to have a good relationship that allows future climbing access, all on the owners terms of use.
50
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2019
Today sure would be a great day for roadside (first warner day without snow after cold spell). Thanks for screwing that up you damn entitled bitchy me-first climber turds who can't follow simple rules!
51
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2019
MISTAKE #1 – Climbing without permit MISTAKE #2 – Being so disrespectful of rules, you post your permitless climbing on social media for all to see (really, you think the owners can't have Instagram?) MISTAKE #3 – Blaming the people who called out the climber in an attempt to self-police. If they didn't self-police, there would be a lot more of this drama at other crags, not just Roadside. Mistake #4 – Insulting the landowner for not wanting to volunteer yet more of her time to put up with yet more of this crap. This assault on the landowner is inexcusable. Grow up. Repeatedly blaming the landowner is as bad as climbing there without a permit.
52
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2019
You'd think climbers would want to make it super easy for landowners to open their land. Ask yourself, are you making it easier or harder to keep Roadside open?
53
usmcmars said on November 14th, 2019
We are quickly becoming a society of self-entitled, selfish little assholes who lack personal accountability. If you are at my house, you follow my rules or you are not welcome in my house. Pretty simple. It is a matter of respect. Being critical of the landowner's rules and blaming the people who brought it to her attention is ridiculous. Posting "anonymous" is cowardly.
54
sbailey077 said on November 22nd, 2019
Per their website, GFNP will be using the closure time to update their rules/permits and to work on trail/erosion maintenance. Please respect the closure so we can hopefully regain some sort of access