Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.7 13 5 35 53
loading

Directions to Roadside Crag - LIMITED ACCESS

Graining Fork Nature Preserve
This wall is in property owned by Graining Fork Nature Preserve. Be respectful.
Drive 6.2 miles south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11 from the Junior Williamson Rest Area. Turn right into a large picnic area. Park and walk across the road to a trailhead straight across from the south entrance/exit of the parking area. Hike up the trail to the wall. You will probably see the obvious dihedral of Roadside Attraction as you near the wall. Please visit http://grainingfork.org for more information concerning climbing at Roadside Crag. You must obtain a permit at http://grainingfork.org/newpermit before climbing at Roadside.

Wall Sun: All day

{show overview map}


Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Roadside Attraction Trad 5.7
 
140
This is the obvious dihedral at the end of the approach trail when it reaches the wall. Scramble up to a ledge of sorts to begin. Climb the low angled handcrack to a ledge. Continue up the handcrack past a couple of wide sections to another ledge to some anchors. If you want to top it out, belay from this ledge then continue up to the top. Steepness:
Tags
fun-3 : classic-4 : long-1 : hands-1 : beautiful-3 : exposed-1

2

Runnin' Down a Dream Mixed 5.10a
 
75
Climb either Jump For Joy, Motha, or Five Finger Discount to the ledge which they end on. Traverse right to a point below a bolt. Climb the line making use of one bolt and some horizontals for gear. Head right for an alcove then traverse left and over a bulge to the top. Steepness:

3

Jump For Joy Sport 5.9+
 
50
Walk left from Roadside Attraction to a line of bolts above a thin boulder. Start on top of the boulder and climb the face to some anchors. Steepness:

4

Motha Trad 5.6
 
50
Just left of the bolted line Jump For Joy is a pocketed face with some horizontal bands. Climb the face making use of pockets for protection. Lower from a set of anchors just below the ledge or continue up to the ledge and rap from the anchors beneath Runnin' Down a Dream. Steepness:

5

Fadda Sport 5.10a
 
50
This bolted line is just left of Motha. Climb through pockets, crimps, underclings to get to a blank section at the top. Delicately move through the blank section then step left to the anchors. Steepness:

6

Five Finger Discount Trad 5.8
 
50
This route ascends the obvious flake with a fingercrack left of Motha. The anchors are chest height about 5' left of the top of the crack on a large ledge. Steepness:
Tags
vertical-1 : fingers-1 : technical-1

7

Science Friction Sport 5.12c
 
70  
Walk 70 feet left from Five Finger Discount to a 10 foot high pyramid shaped boulder. This bolted line begins from the top of the boulder and climbs up through a blocky arete to a low roof at the top. Steepness:

8

Hard Left Mixed 5.10a
 
70
This route is located about 300 feet left of Five Finger Discount on the next obvious clean section of the wall. The route begins in a left-angling crack which fades out in the middle of the wall. Climb up a short slab to the base of the crack to begin. When the crack ends, traverse left and down to the large hueco to some anchors. Steepness:

9

Hemisfear Sport 5.11d
 
40
This route is the next bolted line left of Hard Left. Begin on a boulder and climb up the vertical face making use of small, eyebrow-like crimps. Move left at the top into the obvious hueco. Steepness:

10

Home Is Where the Heart Is Mixed 5.12a
 
40
This mixed route ascends the face just left of Hemisfear making use of natural gear and a bolt for protection. End in the hueco. Steepness:

11

Mantel Route Mixed 5.10c
 
60
Walk left from the large hueco and past some boulders to a steep section of the wall about 25 feet from Home Is Where the Heart Is. Climb horizontal shelves to some anchors making use of many mantles. Steepness:

12

Headwall Sport 5.12b
 
90  
Climb the Mantel Route and continue past the anchors to a second set of anchors. Steepness:

13

Wicked Games Sport 5.12d
 
85
This bolted line ascends the thin face 15 feet left of Mantel Route. Steepness:

14

Andromeda Strain Trad 5.9+
 
90
Left of the bolted line Wicked Games is a beautiful dihedral with a handcrack. Climb up the short slab to the base of the crack. Jam to the top passing a couple of short roofs along the way. Steepness:

15

Milkin' the Chicken Mixed 5.11d
 
50  
From the end of the approach trail, make a right instead of heading up to Roadside Attraction. The trail will wind down through some trees and head back up to the wall referred to as the "5.10 Wall". This route ascends the arete on the left side of the wall making use of a couple of bolts and a slung chicken head for protection. Steepness:

16

A.W.O.L. Sport 5.10a
 
50
This is the obvious bolted line just right of the mixed climb on the arete. Start at a low overhang and move up through pockets and bulges to the anchors. Steepness:

17

Battle of the Bulge Trad 5.10a
 
80
From the ledge above A.W.O.L., continue up a crack, through an overhang, and to the top of the wall. Steepness:

18

Dragonslayer Sport 5.10d
 
50
This is the next bolted line to the right of A.W.O.L characterized by obvious monos near the first bolt. Steepness:

19

Crazyfingers Sport 5.10c
 
50
This is the next bolted line right of Dragonslayer. Steepness:

20

Pulling Pockets Sport 5.10d
 
50
This is the next bolted route on the wall just to the right of Crazyfingers. This route was originally a mixed route but has recently been retro bolted for that amusement-park-like feel. Steepness:

21

Synchronicity Trad 5.11a
 
50
This route ascends the obvious fingercrack in the middle of the 5.10 wall to some anchors. Steepness:

22

Jersey Connection Sport 5.12b
 
50
This route ascends the line of bolts just right of Synchronicity. Angles left at the beginning and shares a start with Stay the Hand. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-1 : dynamic-5

23

Stay the Hand Sport 5.12a
 
50
Begin by climbing the start of Jersey Connection then move right on pockets toward a flake. An alternate and harder start ascends the three bolts beneath the anchors (5.12c). Steepness:

24

Stay the Hand (Direct Start) Sport 5.12c
 
15  
Direct start to Stay the Hand. Glue in bolts. Steepness:

25

Valor Over Discretion Sport 5.8
 
50
Start this route by standing on the large boulder to the right of the 5.10 wall. Climb up the face a few feet right of the arete. Traverse left under the roof and step around the arete. Continue up to a ledge. Steepness:

26

Psycho Killer Trad 5.10c
 
50  
This route begins just right of Valor Over Discretion on a large boulder. Climb up the face to a roof. Crank over the roof and continue up to the ledge. Steepness:

27

Harder Than Your Husband Trad 5.11b
 
40  
Walk around the corner from the 5.10 wall to a large ampitheater with some bolted lines. Near the right corner is a roof with a fingercrack. Traverse across the shelf then make a long reach to a good handjam at the lip. Power up to a fingerlock then continue to the anchors. Steepness:

28

Holly Golightly Trad 5.10b
 
0  
On the ledge above "Harder Than Your Husband" and "Valor Over Discretion". Climb the face to the overhanging crack to the ring anchors using all natural pro. Steepness:

29

Scissors Sport 5.11d
 
50
This is the first bolted line to the right of Harder Than Your Husband on the overhanging wall. Steepness:

30

Ro Shampo Sport 5.12a
 
60
This is the next bolted line right of Scissors and shares a start with Tic-tac-toe. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-2 : steep-2 : sharp-2 : bouldery-4

31

Tic-tac-toe Sport 5.12b
 
60
This line shares the first bolt with Ro Shampo but continues off to the right past some horizontals. Climb through big moves and handjam rests to a boulder problem at the end. Steepness:

32

Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure Sport 5.11d
 
100  
This bolted line begins in the second dihedral right of Ro Shampo. 60-meter rope required. Steepness:

33

Strevels Gets In Shape Sport 5.12b
 
90
This is the next bolted line near the arete and around the corner from Eric and Brian's Excellent Adventure. Boulder the short face past the first set of anchors and continue up the overhanging face to the second set. Steepness:
Tags
pockets-1 : juggy-4

34

Wild Gift Sport 5.12c
 
45
This is the bolted line 20 feet right of Strevels Gets In Shape. The route angles right at the start and ends on a ledge. Steepness:

35

Camel Toe Jockey Trad 5.9
 
40  
Inch your way up the dihedral directly left of Up Yonder, placing decent gear, and clip into the anchors of Up Yonder. Steepness:

36

Way Up Yonder Sport 5.12a
 
95
This bolted line is located a few feet right of Wild Gift just right of a right-facing dihedral. Climb pockets up an overhanging wall and continue up past a set of anchors through the massive overhanging wall above. Or you can stop at the first set of anchors for a good 5.11b. Steepness:

37

Up Yonder Sport 5.11b
 
40
Stop at the first set of anchors. Steepness:

38

Sand Sport 5.11d
 
45  
Start by clipping the first bolt of Way Up Yonder then angle right through an overhang. Steepness:

38a

Release the Kraken Sport 5.12b
 
95
Start directly beneath the Roadside waterfall, pulling a roof move off the tombstone to begin, then trend up and left through a few tricky sequences to reach a no-hands rest. From the ledge, set sail for an overhanging jug fest through the steepest part of the amphitheater. Choose your holds wisely as you vie for the chains, on what has proven to be a heart-breaker finish for many. 10 bolts currently perma-drawed, bring a few draws if you wish to clip the extraneous bolts. Steepness:

39

The Return of Chris Snyder Sport 5.11d
 
95
Walk 250 feet right from Sand, past a wet ampitheater and around a corner to a couple of bolted lines ascending a massive and pocketed face. This line begins by climbing a flake to a small roof. Climb through the roof, past a couple of ledges and to the anchors. Steepness:

40

Pine Sport 5.12a
 
95
This route is just right of The Return of Chris Snyder. Similar route but a bit harder. Steepness:

41

Just Duet Sport 5.10d
 
70  
Walk around the corner from Pine to a wall with many bolted lines. This is the first line encountered and begins on a five foot high ledge with a high first bolt. Steepness:

42

Kampsight Sport 5.9
 
80
This route ascends the low-angled face 10 feet right of Just Duet and just left of a crack. Begin on a 3 foot high sloping ledge. Steepness:

43

Trouble Clef Sport 5.9-
 
80
This is the next bolted line 10 feet right of Kampsight. Begins on a 3 foot high sloping ledge just right of a crack. Steepness:

44

Altered Scale Sport 5.9+
 
80
This is the next bolted line on the wall about 10 feet right of Trouble Clef. Begin on a 3 foot high sloping ledge. Steepness:

45

All Cows Eat Grass Sport 5.8
 
80
This is the next bolted line 20 feet right of Altered Scale. Begin just left of a crack with some bushes. Steepness:

46

Strawberry Shortcake Trad 5.7
 
60  
Steepness:

47

Ledger Line Sport 5.7
 
0
This is the next bolted line just right of All Cows Eat Grass. Climb a thin start to reach the first bolt then move up on large ledges to the vertical face. Sink a handjam or two along the way while continuing up on smaller ledges to the anchors in a roof. Steepness:

48

C Sharp or B Flat Sport 5.7
 
60
This is the next bolted line just right of Ledger Line and the last line on the wall. Steepness:

49

Gumbyland Trad 5.3
 
60  
Just right of C Sharp or B Flat is this thick flake. Climb the flake and face to the anchors on C Sharp or B Flat. Steepness:

50

You Can Tune a Piano, But You Can't Tuna Fish Sport 5.10b
 
60  
This route begins just right of C Sharp or B Flat. Steepness:

51

I Didn't Know This Was The End Trad 5.7
 
150  
Fifteen feet right of Can’t Tune A Tuna is this super secret hidden trad line. Scramble a ledge to gain a finger crack, then dive into an off width section, follow that to a crumbly ledge to gain a hand crack. Run the rather unprotected slab to the barbed wire fence at the top of the cliff or sneak left to a tree for a belay. The view is spectacular. Rap from the tree line to the anchors of Can’t Tune a Tuna. A double rappel is required to keep from splatting. Steepness:
Tags
adventerous-1

52

Chunnel Sport 5.13a
 
50
Walk about 30 feet right from C Sharp or B Flat to a cave to find this line. Steepness:

Comments

1
Anonymous said on November 24th, 2007
Parking instructions in online guide needs correction. The instruction says look for large camping area. But it is posted with no camping signs. It is more like a large picnic area. But we found it yesterday anyway!
2
Lander said on January 6th, 2008
There are too many climbs on the Kampsite slab. It's confusing. My head hurts.
3
Anonymous said on January 24th, 2008
Grid Bolted Jerry Area 35. Just Duet 5.10d *** (S) 36. Kampsight 5.9 *** (S) 37. Trouble Clef 5.9- **** (S) 38. Altered Scale 5.9+ ** (S) 39. All Cows Eat Grass 5.8 *** (S) 40. Strawberry Shortcake 5.7 R ** 41. Ledger Line 5.7 *** (S) 42. C Sharp or B Flat 5.7 *** (S) 42a. Gumbyland 5.3 *** 43. You Can Tune a Piano, But You Can't Tuna Fish 5.10b *** (S)
4
V10Mike said on April 28th, 2008
Anyone know what those three routes are on the hidden wall below the Kampsight slab? How come they're not in the guide?
5
Don McGlone said on May 29th, 2008
I did a route Saturday that may or may not have been done before. It's hard to imagine that someone hasn't done it, but it's not in the guide. Some of the holds seemed clean out to a certain point, but was pretty dirty at and after the crux. Anyhow: Roadside Daydream 5.9+ R Climb Roadside Attraction to the anchors 25 ft. below the top of the cliff. From the anchors, traverse left following good ledges for feet to a thin, slightly rotten flake. Plug as much pro as you can get, then crimp to easier ground. Link up with Runnin' Down A Dream to top out. Nice exposure.
6
pigsteak said on May 29th, 2008
corpse...contrived..please resubmit to the proper bolting commitee for review..may not even consititute a REAL route. :)
7
Don McGlone said on May 29th, 2008
Yea I know, but I couldn't find any committee members anywhere. I drove down to MV and parked under the no parking sign and came looking for you with my dog, but to no avail. Besides, it's so hard to rap-bolt a traverse! :)
8
pigsteak said on May 29th, 2008
You didn't have the proper ID and parking permit my friend. And I can help you with the rap bolt traverse dilemma..I am good at putting bolts every two feet for safety.
9
mpittdawg said on June 14th, 2009
New start to the approach trail added today. It starts directly across the street from the parking lot now. It is further away from that curve that cars come roaring around and less steep. Please start to use this one so it can be further developed. Great job RRGCC!
10
pkananen said on June 15th, 2009
great job with the new trail location. much safer.
11
sgauss said on September 8th, 2009
Trying out my GPS...parking is at latitude 37.73335, longitude 83.65913
12
Anonymous said on September 17th, 2009
any info on the route just right of sand?
13
Jrodan said on September 10th, 2010
The guy bolting the route to the right of sand was working on it during the summer of 2009. He was going to call it "911 Truther" as a tribute to the conspiracy that brought down the world trade center. He was passing out literature about the cover up in between sessions of jugging the route to hammer off excess choss. He told me (referring to the group of conspiracy theorists), "We can't get into the New York Times, but we can get into the guidebook!" He was pretty close to being done bolting and cleaning, so I climbed it on top-rope; it was about as hard as way up yonder and still pretty chossy. Then the guy abruptly disappeared and it looks like he hasn't worked on it since. Very suspicious...
14
Anonymous said on February 9th, 2014
Why is it closed to the public?
15
Anonymous said on February 9th, 2014
The owners decided they were tired of sharing their private property and "just kinda wanted it for ourselves". Which is cool, because it is theirs and they can do whatever they like with it. But, it's a shame they lacked the balls to say that publicly and instead hide behind a multitude of excuses to blame the community.
16
Anonymous said on May 27th, 2014
No, that's not really cool. It would be cool if they bought some land and then bolted some routes themselves and decided they didn't want anyone to climb there. Instead, they buy an area that someone else spent there time and money bolting and the community enjoyed and then sectioned off what wasn't rightfully theirs just because they had the money to do so. It would be awesome if the government would take that land away from them and give it back to us!
17
Anonymous said on April 4th, 2015
FUCK YEAH JOHN AND GRANT!!!! THIS SHIT IS ON PARTY AT ROADSIDE!! just kidding. Stay the hand, forever!
18
Raiden said on April 24th, 2015
A permit is required to climb at Roadside and can be obtained here: http://grainingfork.org/gate-access-permit/
19
Daeris said on May 27th, 2015
I haven't gotten the chance to climb at Roadside yet, but I hope to shortly. Does anyone know, do some of these routes tend to stay dry on drizzly/rainy days, or is the whole wall a mess?
20
Anonymous said on May 28th, 2015
It can be hit or miss. Also NO DOGS allowed!! Or hammocks. But seriously, NO DOGs!!! Please read the rules so we don't lose this cliff for the seventh time. Thank you
21
Anonymous said on September 24th, 2015
So, is It open for climbing as long as we follow the posted rules?
22
Anonymous said on September 24th, 2015
A permit is required which can be obtained at http://grainingfork.org/newpermit/ please do not climb there without a permit.
23
Ryanwsu4 said on October 4th, 2017
I was at roadside earlier this week and they were checking permits and this guy didn't have one and was all pissed. Don't be a douche and ruin this for us people. Get a permit and just donate a dollar. Don't be an ass and bring your dog or don't get a permit and shut down all of these great lines.
24
:-) said on October 16th, 2017
If you show up with a dog, a beer, or no permit, the other climbers WILL tell you to leave. Don't even try it.