Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.9 4 4 45 53
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Directions to The Zoo

This wall is in Private property. Be respectful. Your behavior on this land can either help us secure access.. or help us lose it.
Drive 6.2 miles south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11 from the Junior Williamson Rest Area. Turn right into a large camping area with some shelters, garbage cans and a dumpster. Park and walk back through the campsite area toward the stream. Cross the stream at a bend where it is shallow and continue on the faint trail for 150 feet until you see a tributary on your right. Continue on the trail uphill past some steep sections and eventually you will end up near the top of the hill next to a 4-foot high arch.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Put Me in the Zoo Sport 5.9+
 
70
Walk through the small arch and around the corner to a dirt ramp that heads up to the right. Follow the dirt ramp to a ledge. This route is the bolted line on the right that heads up a vertical face. Steepness:

2

Armadillo Sport 5.10d
 
70  
This is the bolted line directly left of Put Me in the Zoo. Begin just right of a tiny rockhouse. Make use of the largest holds you can find to gain the face then stretch and reach up the face which eases toward the top. Keep your cool making the second clip. Steepness:

3

Jailbird Sport 5.10d
 
90
From the previous two lines scramble down from the ledge and this will be the next line encountered on the trail. Climb up to a swooping overhang 15 feet up and make a sketchy 2nd clip. Pull hard on tiny edges for two bolt lengths then enjoy jug hauling through overhangs to the anchors. Steepness:

4

Chimp Sport 5.10a
 
60  
15 feet left of the previous line is another slab line carrying the same theme of hard at the bottom and easy at the top. Climb a low angled slab to reach a small overhang just right of a crack. Step onto the face and shift around on small edges to gain larger hold for the remainder of the line. Steepness:

4b

Live Action Trad 5.9-
 
75  
The funky crack system just right of Edgehog. Be prepared to do a little bit of everything. Shares anchors with Edgehog. Steepness:

5

Edgehog Sport 5.11a
 
60
This route ascends a thin slab over a bulge about 60 feet left of Chimp. Steepness:

5a

Open Project Sport
 
60
Steepness:

5b

Zookeeper Sport 5.14b
 
50
Overhanging seam left of slab lines. Tough start to a series of powerful and long moves to bad holds. Steepness:

6

Skin the Cat Sport 5.11a
 
80  
Hike left from the slab lines through some boulders to reach a pair of lines which begin on a 10 foot high roof. This is the rightmost and more difficult of the two. Step up on a boulder to start. Haul your feet up over the roof then angle right through bulges. Bring your crack climbing skills for the groove leading to the anchors. Steepness:

7

One Brick Shy Sport 5.10c
 
80  
This enjoyable and long line begins just left of Skin the Cat on the same ledge. Step up on a boulder and grab the holds you need to launch up onto the face. Continue the journey past bulges and cracks to the anchors. Steepness:

8

Geezers Go Sport Sport 5.11b
 
80  
This is the next bolted line located 25 feet left of One Brick Shy. Pull on comfortable pinches, pockets, and knobs up the overhanging face. Save some juice for the finish. It's recommended to place a medium sized cam in the first large ledge to protect the runout from the second to the third bolt. Steepness:

9

Monkey in the Middle Sport 5.11a
 
80
This is the next bolted line 25 left of Geezers Go Sport. Crank through the steep beginning section on pockets to a slightly overhanging headwall. Steepness:

9a

Animal Husbandry Sport 5.11b
 
80  
More pumpy super-featured steepness. Start off a boulder 10' left of Monkey. Steepness:

10

Cannonball Sport 5.11b
 
80
This route is located 20 feet left of Monkey in the Middle just before the next ampitheater. Begin on a boulder. Crank through some tough moves to start then pump up the overhanging face passing the occasional rest along the way. Steepness:

11

On Beyond Zebra! Sport 5.11b
 
80
This route begins to the left of Cannonball and on top of a large boulder near the end of an ampitheater. Steepness:

12

Lynx Jinx Sport 5.11c
 
50
This route ascends the steep face a few feet left of On Beyond Zebra!. Climb through a low overhang and continue up the face through some bulges. Steepness:

13

Scar Tissue Sport 5.12a
 
45
Walk left about 200 feet from Lynx Jinx past an ampitheater to a steep, pocketed section of the wall. This route begins on the left side of a low overhang and ascends the steep face to a final, more vertical section where the crux lives. Steepness:

14

Hippocrite Sport 5.12a
 
45
This line is locate just left of Scar Tissue. Climb a crimpy section to some big moves between huecos. Steepness:
Tags
fun-2 : short-1 : shady-1 : bouldery-3

15

Aviary Sport 5.12b
 
80  
Left of Hippocrite is an arete with a high first bolt. Begin on a large boulder and power up to a ledge at the second bolt. Get a shake then make reachy moves on sandy holds to gain a roof. Traverse left to clip a stray bolt then gun through more awkwardness to meet a good shake on an epoxied flake. Continue on thinning and disappearing holds to the anchors which are way right from the last bolt. Use a 70 meter rope if you want to get down without any issues. Steepness:

16

Sidewinder Sport 5.12b
 
60
This and the following routes are located by walking to the right when the trail meets the cliff instead of walking through or around the arch first. This is the first route encountered and shares a start with the next two routes. Begin on a high ledge with a boulder problem to reach the pumpy arete. Steepness:

17

Speedy Gonzales Sport 5.13b
 
60  
Next route right of Sidewinder and shares a first bolt with it and the next route. Begin in the dihedral on a high ledge and continue straight up at the third bolt. Steepness:

18

Irony of a Twisted Fate Sport 5.12c
 
60  
Begin the same as the previous two routes but move right at the third bolt into steep climbing interspersed with decent rests and tough moves. Steepness:

19

Sparkling Jackass Sport 5.12b
 
80
Move right from the previous three lines about 50 feet to the next bolted line which begins with a sparse section of rock containing a few pockets. Choose your holds wisely. Steepness:

20

Hippopotomoose Sport 5.11b
 
70
Right of Sparkling Jackass is this excellent line which begins left of a low crack. Move up on pockets to reach an undercling crux then continue up the enjoyable pumpy face. Steepness:

21

Barrel Full of Monkeys Sport 5.11a
 
80
The warmup for the wall. This is currently the sixth route on the wall and begins right of the crack. Steepness:

22

BabaBooey Sport 5.11c
 
70
This and the next line begin with several tough moves on small pockets and edges. Make it through the beginning and be rewarded with a nice long run on good holds. Steepness:

23

Sendex 147 Sport 5.12a
 
70  
Similar to BabaBooey but with a slightly more difficult opening. Steepness:

24

Honey Badger Sport 5.12c
 
70  
Move right and uphill a bit to the next bolted line which climbs a nice looking section of the wall on solid stone. A boulder problem or two may shut you down if you are on the short side. This may be the gem of the area. Steepness:

25

The Peyote Pup Sport 5.11b
 
60  
The last route on this section of the wall. Move through a big move in the beginning to reach great climbing. Steepness:

26

Sons of Perdition Sport 5.12a
 
80
This and the following routes are known as the Bird Cage Sector of The Zoo. From the previous set of lines continue right until reaching a large section of overhanging rock with upside down holds. This is the first line on this section of cliff and begins with easy climbing for 20 feet to reach a high first bolt. Climb the slightly overhanging face passing a couple of tough bouldery sections one of which contains a single natural perfectly placed make-or-break pocket. Grab a sit-down rest then tackle a roof with large holds that disappear shortly over the lip. The reward for making it this far is an enjoyable Red-Riveresque romp on large holds up a more overhanging and pumpy section of the wall. Steepness:

26a

Closed Project Sport 3rd
 
0  
Equipped by Andrew Gearing 2014 Steepness:

26b

Slow Stepper Sport 5.13c
 
80  
Middle line on blocky wall left of Hammerhead. Boulder problem down low followed by big moves on jugs. Steepness:

26c

Eager Beaver Sport 5.12c
 
90
Start off a boulder 25' left of Hammerhead, just past a crack. Crimp hard down low to haul crazy jugs above. A couple of long draws help reduce drag. Steepness:
Tags
classic-1 : dynamic-1

27

Hammerhead (Open project) Sport Unknown
 
65  
Walk right from Sons of Perdition down through a swampy section or stay high and pass through some boulders to reach the right edge of the cave where a set of 4 lines can be found. This is the first line and contains glue-in bolts. Equipped by Kipp Trummel. Steepness:

28

Jethro Bodean Sport 5.13c
 
75  
Next route right of Hammerhead. Bang through big steep moves on crimps and a big dyno. Equipped by Kipp Trummel. Steepness:

29

Slackjaw Willie (Open Project) Sport Unknown
 
65
The third line out on the right edge of the cave. More big moves on edges. Equipped by Kipp Trummel. Please keep original route name if you send. Steepness:

30

Reasonable Doubt (Open Project) Sport Unknown
 
65  
This is currently the last of the set of 4 steep lines on the right edge of the cave. Bouldery and steep. Equipped by Kipp Trummel. Please keep the original route name if you send. Steepness:

30a

Botanical Gardens Sport 5.10a
 
95  
The long purplish slab right of Reasonable Doubt, starting with a jump off a cheater stack (stick clipping recommended). Steepness:

30b

Scantily Trad Mixed 5.11a
 
90  
Start with Romance, then pull out left and up the gaping crack before things get messy. Steepness:

30c

Romance Explosion Sport 5.11a
 
90  
Start with a jump off the boulder 50' right of Reasonable Doubt. New River-style crimpin leads to wild moves up the headwall above. Steepness:

30d

Snake Charmer Sport 5.11a
 
65
Around the corner from Romance Explosion and 20' left of Buried Alive is this techy face marked by a low flake feature and large hueco about 15' up. Steepness:

31

Buried Alive Trad 5.8+
 
55  
Walk right from the previous steep lines to reach a more vertical section of the wall where this flake is located. It's a spicy hot lead so be solid at the grade before diving in. Steepness:

31a

Crimpin' Ain't Easy Sport 5.11c
 
85
The long golden face just before you get to the "birdcage" slab routes. Crank on cool pockets and crimps for a couple bolts of tricky face, cruise through some jugs to a good rest, then yard on crimps again to pull a boulder problem on perfect orange rock to reach the anchor. Steepness:

31b

Action Potential Sport 5.11d
 
80
Start in a hand and finger crack to access the ledge and crux above. Airy soul climbing awaits beyond the midway break. A harder direct start to the left is also possible. Steepness:

32

Dirty Bird Sport 5.10b
 
55  
Continue walking right until you reach a steep gully hosting three bolted lines on the left side. This begins at the mouth of the gully and wanders up the arete. With the name don't expect an instant classic. Steepness:

33

Lone Coyote Sport 5.10b
 
75
Just around the corner from Dirty Bird is a pair of lines which climb much better than they appear. Move up through high steps and small holds to meet up with an evil run for the chains. Clean the draws on the anchors for your partner so you can laugh while they experience the spicy ending you just experienced. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-3 : technical-3

33a

Here Comes the Beep Beep Sport 5.10b
 
70  
Next route right of Lone Coyote. Steepness:

34

Harley Trad 5.8+
 
50  
Right of the previous set of lines on the right side of the gully is a ledge where this and the next two lines begin. This line ascends the face making use of natural protection. Steepness:

35

Gunner Sport 5.9-
 
50
Just right of Harley is a good line to get the bones moving or a nice beginner lead. Steepness:

36

Can of Biscuits Trad 5.4
 
50  
A flake system right of Gunner. Steepness:

37

Bumpin with Bulldog Mixed 5.10
 
60
From the ledge walk back down to the trail and continue right until the trail steepens and meets back up with the wall. Look left and you'll see an attractive finger crack and some bolts. This is the leftmost line which has bolts beginning midway up. Begin with fun climbing to reach a tricky section after which the climbing eases up again. Steepness:

38

Goblins In My Mind Sport 5.11d
 
60
Just right of the previous line is a fully bolted crimp line which ends just left of the finger crack with a tough gaston move. Steepness:

39

The Fangs and the Furious Mixed 5.10b
 
65
The obvious attractive finger crack which begins by climbing the face to avoid the death blocks back in the cave. Steepness:

41

Mosh Pit Viper Mixed 5.11
 
80
MPV is the overhanging, featured, sporty crack 12 meters to climber's right of The Fangs and the Furious. Rave in the mosh pit, preach with the pit viper, then ascend the Mosh Pit Viper! Solo up to the platform to stick clip a bolt high in the right side of the alcove. Top out on a spacious ledge with trees after a slabby, bouldery finish. Rap from a very sturdy pine. Steepness:

Comments

1
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2004
hey, what is that route just to the right of One Brick Shy. it's a good route! Andrew
2
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2004
hey, what is that route just to the right of One Brick Shy. it's a good route! Andrew
3
Roentgen Ray said on May 15th, 2004
Easier than edgehog and jailbird.
4
Anonymous said on May 19th, 2004
Watch out for copperheads!
5
Roentgen Ray said on June 12th, 2004
On May 14th, I'ze talkin'bout Armadillo. Ditto on the vipers.
6
Anonymous said on October 5th, 2004
o yea
7
Green3 said on November 8th, 2004
Could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure there is a new route tucked between Monkey and Lynx somewhere, thought i counted five routes there, if anyone knows anything it would be cool if the website got updated, just checking
8
Anonymous said on November 9th, 2004
nevermind, my counting skills are a little off, don't worry, I am going back to kindergarten
9
pigsteak said on September 11th, 2005
people always say the Zoo is choss. I wonder if they've ever climbed up there. It has no more chossy routes than, say, Roadside. Agreat day away from the crowds.
10
dah-le said on April 23rd, 2006
The new guidebook mentions 'a tree trunk bridge' across the stream. While there is a tree trunk crossing the stream the scramble along the streambed after crossing makes it easier to cross about 10ft further upstream. Either remove socks & shoes or cross on wobbly stepping stones (best use a stick for balance).
11
dbrayack said on August 1st, 2006
Whats the really sweet looking new line left of Hippocrite?
12
Crankmas said on August 3rd, 2006
if its the line with (hopefully) the cord hanging, it is an unfinished project of Funhog's
13
JR said on October 8th, 2007
Is the project to the left of Hypocrite open?
14
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2007
Monkey in the middle has been one of my lifetime favorite climbs however over the last 10 years many holds have broken off was wondering if anyone knew if the sandstone handle is still intact at the top?
15
MSMITH said on March 31st, 2008
WTF? Couldn't find the trail anywhere, HALP PLAESESE!
16
pawilkes said on April 8th, 2008
trail isn't too hard to find, I found it in the snow! anyhow, cross the river just upstream from the left side of the parking lot. hike along the far side maybe 100 feet until you come to a little valley coming into it. turn up this valley and look to your right. the trail goes up the valley right away, kinda steep. the rest is pretty obvious.
17
MSMITH said on April 9th, 2008
Ok, Thanks, I got across the river and to something that slightly resembled a trail, but it just led into a big ass pile of leaves, so we just bailed and went somewhere else. By the way, what's up with the overflowing garbage cans at roadside parking lot?
18
Josephine said on May 18th, 2008
the trail is not very dog friendly as there is a steep incline where the dog had to be lifted.
19
Dman said on December 30th, 2008
i love the zoo the trails easy to find on the right after you cross the water and walk about ahundred feet i went left the first time up to the zoo and came out by hippocrite (forgot my book and got lost but it worked)
20
Dman said on December 30th, 2008
i love the zoo the trails easy to find on the right after you cross the water and walk about ahundred feet i went left the first time up to the zoo and came out by hippocrite (forgot my book and got lost but it worked)
21
Deal1 said on January 1st, 2010
I did a trad climb here back in 2002 access it by going left at the top of the trail follow the cliff line and when the trail forces you away form the wall start on top of a block with a small crack that gets wider shortly and leads to a ledge. I took most the choss off the first pitch and always thought of scrubbing and adding a bolted anchor at the ledge but never did only because of the lack of other trad climbs at the crag. If my jeep had top and doors I would not have had my rack with me. The second pitch went on the FA but I do not recommend anyone else go up there in the sea of choss. I remember the first pitch having surprisingly good rock under the flakes of choss and being rather fun. I think it was in the 5.9, 5.9+ range but it has been a while.
22
ontariariario said on June 5th, 2010
anybody know anything about that stunning, left-leaning finger crack slashing through the amphitheatre? simply undone? pure choss? impossibly hard?
23
JR said on July 27th, 2010
Crazy ground bees about 2/3 up the trail.
24
michaelarmand said on August 23rd, 2010
The bees are yellow jackets I believe and they are pure evil. They are 2/3 the way up on the left side of the trail by a tree and a dead log. Just walking by I was stung 3 times and my partner got about 10 stings. They chased us to the top, it was awful. At least it provided me with a good excuse for sucking today. I'll but a beer for anyone brave enough to take a can of raid to them....
25
jimmy said on August 28th, 2010
I didn't see these posts before heading up here today, but I was verbally warned by two people. For some reason, I didn't think the bees would be that bad, but I definitely agree that they are PURE EVIL. There is really no avoiding them and they WILL sting you. The first person walking by has an OK chance of sneaking by, but whoever is 2nd (or 3rd, etc...) is probably screwed. I got stung 6 times on the way up, and my partner was stung 4 times on the way down. Pretty brutal... I would go up there with a can of Raid, but now I'm scared... Any takers?
26
pigsteak said on May 15th, 2013
In the next few weeks the new routes on the right side of the Zoo will be up here. Please respect any red tagged routes, as the developers are still an old farty pants bunch and are slow pokes. The first wall you hit is called the New Zoo..once you head down the hill to the cave area and on around, we are calling it The Birdcage. If any developers see something they want to bolt, please get a hold of me first as I have a good relationship with the landowner. Please do not develop around the corner right past "the fangs and the furious"..that is state property.
27
tcu said on May 15th, 2013
Thanks to Kipp and Jeff for all the work put into this area, tremendous job!
28
Jeff said on May 15th, 2013
New Zoo is shady all day for you hot weather climbers. First few routes on far left get sun until 9:30 or 10 am.
29
chosen1 said on June 2nd, 2013
Great day on the new lines. Thanks for the new routes guys!
30
Willy said on June 10th, 2013
New Zoo is killer! Basically the Dark Side for non-mutants. Unfortunately the top gets wet at least on the right side. Got chased away today when it started raining
31
dustonian said on October 28th, 2013
Most of the routes from #27-39 (far right side of new Zoo) get great sun almost day and make for a good choice on colder days if you're into nice face climbs and cracks
32
Saxman said on May 14th, 2014
There is a line of bolts between Edgehog and Zookeeper and there is no red tag.
33
dustonian said on May 14th, 2014
Open project apparently. Hard 14 range.
34
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2018
Who's the douche-nozzel who chopped the tree you could use to cross the river
35
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2018
i know it's private property etc. but the approach trail gets my vote for next big trail day project, including footbridge. obviously most of the staircase framing/s could be built in advance and assembled in place with a few battery powered drills. on the other hand, would require somewhat thoughtful planning, so, go figure.
36
DrRockso said on March 28th, 2018
Probably got washed out. I doubt RRGCC would support a bridge or trail on land with handshake access. Maybe you can accidentally get a good dead tree to fall conveniently across the creek.
37
Anonymous said on March 28th, 2018
yeah, no need to involve the rrgcc, bs should have quit last century.
38
amarius said on March 28th, 2018
Coincidentally, and anecdotally, the owner(s) of property were not happy with climbers using the tree to cross instead of just hopping across.