Torrent Falls - LIMITED ACCESS

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.2 8 - 48 56
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Directions to Torrent Falls - LIMITED ACCESS

From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive 7.5 miles south (towards Miguel's and Beattyville) on KY 11. There will be a gravel drive with a gate on the right. Information regarding access and permits as well as the rules of the property may be found at torrentfallsclimbing.com. All individuals accessing the property will be expected to sign a waiver and follow the rules as posted. Park only in the designated area (to the immediate left as you enter the parking area) and do not block any drive, structure or rental parking area. Walk up the drive towards a large cabin then head right, up the steps past a smaller log cabin. You will be at the base of the cliff near the "5.11" wall. Routes #45 and up are on the Via Ferrata property and hiking past the "Poopie Head" wall towards the Via Ferrata is trespassing onto their property. Torrent Falls is a privately owned business that allows limited access of its property to the general public for climbing and hiking. Inappropriate, noisy, disruptive, or obnoxious behavior will not be tolerated.

Wall Sun: Unknown

{show overview map}


Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

Windy Corner (to first set of anchors) Trad 5.11b
 
4.90  (21) 70ft

2

Windy Corner (to topout) Trad 5.11b
 
100ft  

3

Sam and Terry's Line Sport 5.12a
 
80ft  

4

Smoke Screen Trad 5.9
 
1.00  (1) 90ft  

5

Impossible Choss Sport 5.12c
 
60ft  

6

Tourist Trap Sport 5.9
 
3.70  (71) 80ft

7

Last Resort Sport 5.10c
 
2.67  (15) 80ft  

8

Family Value Sport 5.10d
 
3.29  (34) 80ft

9

Rest Assured Sport 5.10a
 
3.38  (48) 60ft

10

About Five Ten Sport 5.11b
 
2.67  (6) 70ft  

11

It's Alive Sport 5.10d
 
3.35  (23) 55ft

12

Reanimator Sport 5.10b
 
3.57  (47) 70ft

13

Dark City Sport 5.11c
 
3.33  (3) 85ft  

14

Situational Awareness Sport 5.11c
 
2.67  (3) 70ft  

15

Paranoia Sport 5.13b
 
1.00  (1) 90ft

16

Hydro Shock Sport 5.12c
 
70ft  

17

Into The Mystic Sport 5.12c
 
3.55  (11) 85ft  

18

Neither Trad 5.11a
 
2.33  (4) 60ft

19

Torrential Sport 5.12c
 
2.33  (3) 70ft  

20

Burcham's Folly Trad 5.8
 
3.00  (10) 100ft  

21

Big Money Grip Sport 5.12b
 
4.45  (31) 70ft

22

Bare Metal Teen Sport 5.12a
 
4.86  (63) 80ft

23

Steelworker Sport 5.12c
 
4.88  (32) 80ft

24

Racer X Sport 5.12d
 
4.79  (14) 80ft  

25

Misfire Sport 5.11c
 
3.43  (23) 55ft  

26

Recoil Sport 5.11d
 
4.00  (38) 55ft

27

Receiver Sport 5.11b
 
4.17  (58) 65ft  

28

Centerfire Sport 5.11c
 
4.54  (78) 75ft

29

Bandolier Sport 5.11a
 
4.45  (103) 70ft

30

Wadcutter Sport 5.9+
 
3.62  (87) 50ft

31

Dream Of A Bee Sport 5.8
 
2.67  (61) 45ft

32

Hmmm Trad 5.2
 
1.50  (10) 50ft  

33

Cordelia Sport 5.8
 
2.50  (68) 0ft

34

Us and Them Sport 5.12a
 
4.09  (23) 70ft  

35

Del Boy Sport 5.11b
 
3.67  (27) 75ft  

36

Pork and Bondage Sport 5.10d
 
3.39  (18) 75ft  

37

Pocket Pussy Sport 5.10d
 
3.28  (54) 50ft

38

Sex Show Sport 5.11c
 
3.72  (36) 50ft  

39

Seek the Truth Sport 5.11d
 
4.56  (52) 50ft

40

Sport for Brains Sport 5.11d
 
3.48  (21) 60ft  

41

Ode To Poopie Head Sport 5.11b
 
2.87  (23) 40ft  

42

Poopie Head Sport 5.10c
 
3.07  (43) 40ft  

43

Stool Sample Sport 5.10c
 
2.81  (36) 40ft  

44

Rectal Exorcism Sport 5.11a
 
2.71  (17) 45ft  

45

G'sUs Sport 5.11c
 
4.00  (4) 80ft  

46

Onaconaronni Sport 5.11d
 
3.50  (6) 65ft  

47

Hoosier Buddies Sport 5.12a
 
3.63  (8) 65ft  

48

Hired Guns Sport 5.7
 
1.27  (11) 40ft  

49

Physically Strong, Mentally Awake, and Morally Straight Sport 5.5
 
1.50  (10) 30ft  

50

Livin' in the UK Sport 5.11c
 
3.57  (7) 65ft

51

Mad Porter's Disease Sport 5.11c
 
5.00  (1) 70ft  

52

My How Things Change Sport 5.11d
 
4.25  (4) 60ft  

53

Retroflex Trad 5.9
 
4.00  (3) 75ft  

54

Be Prepared Sport 5.8
 
3.08  (12) 40ft

55

The Last Boyscout Sport 5.7
 
2.67  (9) 40ft  

56

Stacia's Back in Town Trad 5.6
 
1.00  (1) 40ft  

Comments

1
Anonymous said on August 19th, 2004
'
2
haas said on March 17th, 2005
Actually routes 41-44 are further right then they are listed
3
docpolecat said on May 31st, 2005
What are the 3 bolted routes between "Physically Strong, Mentally Awake, and Morally Straight" and "Be Prepared"? Right around the corner. They look 80+ feet.
4
MSMITH said on January 8th, 2008
Does anyone know if Torrent has been reopened to the public? And if not, is there still climbing available at the RRGCC meetings?
5
512OW said on January 8th, 2008
It'll be reopened, but not to gym climbers :)
6
MSMITH said on January 8th, 2008
Looks like its back to sweatbands and tight pants for meeee.
7
Anonymous said on April 6th, 2008
Shrimp dicked Vanilla Ice wannabe ^
8
512OW said on April 7th, 2008
Could be, I guess, but your girl doesn't seem to mind....
9
MSMITH said on April 7th, 2008
ahahaha, yes.
10
mike_anderson said on May 24th, 2009
Question: Is it OK to climb on routes 38 and up? When you walk through the amphitheater on the way to #38 there is a "Property Boundary" sign. Does that sign still apply, and if so, is the other landowner cool with climbers?
11
ACD said on October 30th, 2010
A farce to try and get into, consider it a private crag, open for money, and friends of friends. As a visitor from the uk proved impossible to use the computer book in system. Should be taken out of the guide. One of the busiest sundays of the year and 2 people climbing? Then overheard two locals speaking in Miguels, "You going to Torrent tommorrow? Hmmm I might do, I dont know etc.... Says it all. Hope this isn't an example of the future of climbing.
12
Meadows said on January 3rd, 2011
ACD: An example of future climbing is the PMRP and all that Access Fund is doing. By the way, the PMRP was made possible by the man who purchased Torrent, a once completely closed crag but now is his home so the climbing there is his backyard. The minor stipulations to access the crag ain't so bad.
13
aburgoon said on January 3rd, 2011
...yeah, well, consider that payback for the war of 1812.
14
dustonian said on January 3rd, 2011
which one was that again Andy?
15
aburgoon said on January 3rd, 2011
... the one that occurred in 1812.
16
Anonymous said on August 1st, 2011
I did a trad route to the right of Dream of a Bee, and to the left of Cordelia, and moved out right to the anchors of Cordelia to rap... i thought this was the 5.2 Hmmm..but looking back I see that Hmmm is further right......thought it was cool and fun.... Dru Mack
17
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2012
How can I become a friend of Dr.Bob's so I can climb free and unresrticted like his buddies? Can I get back the money I donated since Dr.Bob decided to help us climbers out by closing Torrent Falls?
18
anticlmber said on October 13th, 2012
You can start by not being an anonymous, dicklicking SOB. The money you so graciously gave went to purchase PMRP, where you can go. NOT Torrent. Bob bought Torrent with his money at the same time he was helping pay for the PMRP. But you're right, he's such a selfish asshole. Fuckfaces like you need to get your head out of your ass so that my foot can fit. Maybe then bob would let you play. With his balls.
19
Jeff said on October 13th, 2012
Nicely done anticlmber, good first post in 2 or 3 years. Hope you're just warming up.
20
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2012
I think only his friends get to play with his balls. Maybe you should retire Old Timer. Maybe you and bob can close some more cliffs for us. There should be an age limit on climbers. People like you are a waste of skin and a drain on resources.
21
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2012
The only old skin that drains resources is your mom's mouth on my cock.
22
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2012
How dare you! I'll wrap my dick around your neck and start you up like a lawnmower!
23
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2012
Does this tool even know why the area is closed in the first place? well in short answer ya tool, is city folk, punk disrespecting so called climbers that don't know how to act on private land in the woods, away from their home pissed off the original owners awhile ago- i'm glad Bob has kept it private- to make sure you tools can't f--k it up anymore- Go try golf or something else T
24
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2012
So "city folk" ruined it? The same city folk who donate money? The same city folk who bring in tourist dollars? Maybe you should stop excepting money from the city folk when they climb. Maybe someone should tell all the city folk they (and their money) are not welcomed or wnated at Rocktoberfest.
25
Spikeddem said on October 20th, 2012
Peeps need to chill out and not get so riled up about this.
26
anticlmber said on October 21st, 2012
please do. fuck, "city folk." i'd rape everyone of you in a deliverance style, pig squeal, ass rape if i could. hell, that might generate money since the majority of you are worthless, cumguzzling wastes of tommy hillfuck jeans and beamers. bring your ass down here and just expect the world to be given to you, drop the annon moniker and make yourself known. i'll be glad to drag you through a mudpuddle and stomp a hole in your ass any day. ANY DAY cocksucker. and spikedemon..... you ain't see riled up.
27
bob said on November 5th, 2012
Anon, why not contact me rather than a personal rant/attack? At least have the courtesy and honesty to identify yourself. Bob
28
Anonymous said on November 25th, 2012
Contact you for what? Get over yourself. You are not helping climbers by closing access,no matter what you and you friends think. Good way to get people to stop donating. I have an idea!! Maybe you could help us all out and buy more rock and close it to climbers,maybe even try to get donations to help make it possible. Dr.Bob,protecting access one closure at a time!
29
Anonymous said on November 25th, 2012
Go fuck yourself dickface. Torrent and the PMRP are open to the public today because of Bob. What's wrong, don't have the balls to identify yourself and get that ass you call a mouth beaten in? People like you have really made climbing in the Red a lame scene these days... a lot of worthless ingrateful motherfuckers with big mouths and zero class, waiting for mommy to lick their asses clean. .
30
Anonymous said on December 5th, 2012
Just to point out, routes #40 and up are now part of the via ferrata, so they aren't open for sport climbing. Dr. Bob, keep up the good work. I've stayed on the grounds a couple of times & I think its an incredible place. Many thanks for keeping it beautiful. ACD: If you ever travel from the UK again, paying to stay at Torrent is the best investment you can make in a trip to the RRG. -Matt.
31
Anonymous said on December 8th, 2012
Threatening people with physican violance really makes climbers look good. It looks like most of these posts were written by angry kids. Some people have been climbing for many years and should know better. It only makes climbers as a whole look bad.
32
Anonymous said on October 27th, 2013
Will it ever be open to the public again? Is this really a private playground for friends of the owner as posted above? Is this where donation money goes?
33
EricDorsey said on October 27th, 2013
It is open to the public and is very easy to get access to so please dont whine.
34
Saxman said on October 27th, 2013
This is a privately owned crag that the owner graciously allows people to register online and climb at during weekends. If you are active in the community, you get to climb here. As far as I know, no one who is positive and has donated a lot of time to make climbing better in the red has been denied access. If you are from out of town and can't make it on weekends then you can complain once you have sent the other 2000 routes in the red. The RRGCC does not own the crag and no money that goes to the RRGCC goes here. If you get to climb here, then yes, toss in a small donation. If you don't like any of this, tough. People are allowed to do with their privately owned land whatever they want, including only inviting people they know. If you think this is unfair, try climbing at Roadside.
35
Anonymous said on April 3rd, 2015
it seems to me that the click on 'overview map' incorrectly identifies the climbs/is wrong. (?)
36
mbrunell said on September 4th, 2018
We stayed at the torrent cabins this weekend (great choice considering all the rain). Many of the routes at torrent are in severe need of bolt replacement. Specifically, about five ten - i didn't check the bolts, but the chains looked in rough shape from the top of reanimator Reanimator - Anchors chains are not safe and the bolts are nearly there too (I put two quick links on there today in order to rappel safely). The rest of the bolts have severe levels of rust (little to none on the hangers, no spinners found). It's Alive - i didn't check the bolts, but the chains were completely rusted when viewing from the top of reanimator. Pocket pussy, Sex Show, seek the truth, sport for brains, Ode to poopie head, and stool sample -> all the first/second bolts show high levels of rust on the bolts. I assume the anchors are in similar shape (I didn't climb these). I have made them aware of the state of these anchors directly through email, but I'd recommend staying away from these until you see some shiny new gear on them. Torrent is a really great place to climb, especially if you've graduated from camping to cabins (they're really nice, can't beat the approach either).
37
Anonymous said on September 4th, 2018
Pretty safe to say that those chains, even those with severe levels of surface corrosion, will still rate out with a breaking strain higher than any of the gear on your harness. We are slowly working to replace the bolts at torrent. I have rebolted 5 routes there now, however given it's limited access, it is pretty low on the priority list at the point. If you'd like to help out with the effort leave a comment here and I will get in contact with you.
38
mbrunell said on September 5th, 2018
that's good to know. I've always found it hard to evaluate bolt rust. The first chain link on the left anchor is not just rusted, it's ~50% worn through, so that one would be one to bump up the torrent priority list (fun route too). I think I would be interested in helping out too. I travel from Milwaukee for my rrg trips, so I've donated $$ in lieu of my time (trail days,etc). But gaining experience in a re-bolting effort sounds like a cool thing to do and learn about. So please do contact me and hopefully we can work out some logistics.
39
mbrunell said on September 5th, 2018
I was referring to "reanimator" in my previous comment about the worn through chain link.
40
Anonymous said on September 5th, 2018
I am NOT, NOT, NOT trying to be critical of the Torrent situation. But given the restricted access and the payment setup, should they not maintain bolts themselves? Or, is climbing viewed as incidental to cabin rental? Like, why should RRG-wide volunteers donate time/effort/money to a place where most people can't climb?
41
Anonymous said on September 5th, 2018
All rebolting efforts at Torrent are privately funded and do not benefit from donations to FGI/RRGCC etc. I've donated my time to replace bolts there because I want to, and as a "RRG-Wide Volunteer" I would hope you're not trying to tell me how I should I should be volunteering my time. Torrent has been specifically left out of RRG rebolting events due to the nature of it's accessibility. I don't think asking those who are concerned with quality of the bolts there to help out is in any way wrong.
42
Anonymous said on September 6th, 2018
Right on. Umm, no, not trying to tell you what to do. I guess it just never occurred to me that Torrent would still need volunteer work to maintain stuff since it seemed to have adopted more of a pay-for-play model. Again, not being critical of it. And I'm sure someone could log on and say I don't know what I'm talking about, which I am preemptively admitting.
43
Anonymous said on September 6th, 2018
Newer climbers, and climbers from out of town, usually don't even know who owns which crag, let alone what the rules are for each landowner. Never fault someone for asking an honest question. If people don't know, they won't ever have a reason to donate or volunteer.
44
Anonymous said on June 6th, 2019
Is the only way to access Torrent by renting a cabin? I see there is a part of torrentclimbing.com that talks about daily registration, but registration always seems to be closed.
45
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2019
Park at Beer Trailer and walk the cliff to Torrent. I have done this for ten years. Fuck the man!! As long as you're not a screamer when you try hard and you have a tinge of ninja skill, you'll be fine. #theRedisDead #more$$$moreProblems #goFuckyourself
46
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2019
<=== Disrespecting two generous landowners at once. True douchebag skills.
47
climbhigh said on June 7th, 2019
Fuckign idiot. Just rock it old school and bust some noses.
48
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2019
Oh you're right. I feel so bad sneaking into a gated community that has littered the cliffs with rebar and steel cable to climb dangerously neglected routes with bolts that could actually fail.
49
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2019
And it is also so awesome that historic RRG routes from the early days are permanently closed so daddy daycare can pee his pants while ascending a giant iron ladder. Warms the heart really.
50
climbhigh said on June 7th, 2019
Youre confusing two different private lands... I have no dog in it anymore. but if people come up my driveway, unwelcomed, they will leave in a different state than they started. We just wear the diapers for a fashion statement.
51
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2019
Some clueless jr high school kid (aka comment #48-49) clearly doesn't understand the difference between the two Torrent Falls or that there are two different sets of owners. There's no via ferrata at the crag with Steelworker. And yes, you can legally climb there without renting a cabin.
52
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2019
It was all Torrent for a long time. So I can understand anons confusion.
53
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2019
Wow I haven't seen so much ignorance in a single post in awhile. The landowners home is less than a 100 yards from the 11 wall and he walks his dogs several times a day around the entire property. You would think having "climbed there for 10 years" you would know the difference between the two properties and have a little respect for someones backyard. Many of the most classic routes at Torrent have been rebolted in the last couple years, and I wouldn't hesitate to whip on the rest.
54
Anonymous said on June 9th, 2019
Based on reading the Rules Page on their site, sounds like they don't want climbing here at all. 10-6, what kind of time frame for climbing is that? Maybe in the winter that would be appropriate, but any other season, that's a pretty late start, and an extremely early end. The rock better be world class to want to climb here with the threat of being locked in if youre running behind at the end of the day. I've never been, and again, strictly based on the way the rules page is written, I'll never want to. If it's free, then obviously they couldn't care less about my thoughts, but if they are running a business here, good luck to them.
55
Anonymous said on June 9th, 2019
Thank you to the land owner for allowing free access. I look forward to going. Sorry that there is a small % of idiots that make it hard to do this.
56
Anonymous said on June 9th, 2019
Comment #54 YOU and your entitled attitude have no place here. Thank you Bob for everything you’ve done.
57
Anonymous said on June 10th, 2019
I love and admire Dr. Matheny and believe Torrent Falls is his to do with as he pleases. I am even grateful for the appearance of limited free access. However, the numerous times I have tried to register there were met with a variety of technical difficulties, from the site not being available to the capacity already having been reached. So be it. It is frustrating and can feel alienating.
58
Anonymous said on June 11th, 2019
All hail glorious Dr Bob, all shall bow down to him as he has cured AIDS and saved climbing in the Red!!! What would we do without him!? Come on guys, settle the F down.
59
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2019
Bob saved my puppy from a burning fire then cured it of cancer on the spot. If you ever see Bob bow down immediately to show respect and don't make eye contact as that is a sign of aggression. He truly is a gift from God, you all better respect him and tell us all how much you love him! You would be nothing without bob. Yeah, you all are getting a bit carried away....
60
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2019
I hate the attitude that land ownership means the owner can do whatever they want with the land, without being subject to scrutiny from others. Thousands and thousands of people have a great deal of interest in the cliffs at Torrent and Roadside (etc.). They are community resources with incredible value, created by the timeless forces of the natural world. And some guy / gal buys it at a given point in history and all of a sudden what they say is gospel?! Fuck that. If that's what you believe, then you're a boot-licking chump. Uncritical worship of ownership is not that far from straight up tyrannical rule.
61
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2019
Not trespassing is not same as “boot licking.” Or maybe I should lick your boots by not breaking into your house tonight? If it’s such a community asset, maybe you should pass around a collection hat and buy it for the community. How much are you chipping in? Dr Bob chipped in six figures. You matching that #60, or just whining that others aren't giving you still more? There are 2500+ routes in the gorge. Stop bitching that there are 50 you can't climb every day of the week.
62
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2019
The wealthy deserve power. Got it.
63
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2019
Fucking self entitled weak ass bitches that have never achieved any modicum of financial success or ownership. Why don't you make Dr. Bob an offer he can't refuse and open it to the public?
64
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2019
I feel like the first part of your comment answers the question in the second part. As you so eloquently point out, I lack the financial means to purchase Torrent. In this period of unprecedented income and wealth inequality, so do most people. In your view, this means that we are "weak ass bitches" who have never achieved anything. I don't share your view. My view is that management of cherished places is better and more equitably handled through some type of community management than through private ownership. This is not addressed specifically at Dr. Bob, by the way. I don't know him or much about the larger situation. I'm just responding to the idea that the simple fact of land ownership precludes the possibility of community input on the management of what are truly, in the end, communal resources. That cliff has existed for millenia, and will exist long after we are all gone. Some would argue that private ownership is the most efficient path toward preservation, which is a view I disagree with in the long run, but which is fair enough in the short run. I think your personal view, though, is your more standard boot-licking.
65
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2019
*Communism
66
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2019
Nope. I think property ownership is fine in general. There is little community-wide interest in your standard plot in suburban Lexington, and I am fine with private interests seeking profit from the purchase and sale of land. Some places, though, are special. This is a rather uncontroversial point in most capitalist societies, including ours (see: National Parks, etc.). All I'm saying is that I would love to see Roadside and Torrent (as well as a host of other privately-owned cliffs that currently grant community access, along with those that do not) folded into the RRGCC over the long-run, and would put my money where my mouth is in terms of making that happen. I'm guessing you'll say, "Well make it happen and quit bitching," but it's a lot more complicated than that.
67
Anonymous said on June 12th, 2019
Torrent and Roadside are only unique for easy access to the road and some good climbing. They have little value to the masses to warrant a state or national treasure status considering the thousands of miles of similar cliff line in the gorge that are open and accessible. Get over your self serving attitude of entitlement that "we deserve" this land.
68
Anonymous said on June 14th, 2019
The tragedy in the red is not privately owned crags like this. Rather it is the ridiculously restrictive “management” of the public lands. They have been planning to study the archeological resources of the area for the last 30 years. Holistically closing off thousands of miles of cliff line with zero progress. How this is not the Access Funds number one priority and what we are all up in arms about is beyond me. There are hundreds of Torrents and Roadsides that we are not even allowed to trad climb at! So...do we really want that same government to take over Torrent and Roadside?
69
Anonymous said on June 17th, 2019
The coalition is not the government.
70
Anonymous said on June 17th, 2019
well, for most of the last 30 years the 'coalition' under Bill Strachan's leadership were unable to move the Forest Service on the ban on bolting, and gave indication that questions about the process were interference, or at least not clarifying or beneficial. over this time the push for private ownership by the coalition emerged, for better or worse. i would think that if the coalition were to prioritize ownership of roadside and torrent then some time in the future an opportunity may present itself. be prepared?
71
Anonymous said on June 18th, 2019
The value of these properties would make them prohibitively expensive to purchase unless Dr. Bob wanted to drastically undervalue his property so that a bunch of entitled climbers can over use, abuse, and destroy. If if "we" own it, it would require limited access, much as Roadside does now.
72
Anonymous said on June 18th, 2019
The Bob worshp is amusing. Been climbing at the Red 15 years, he hasn't done anything for me.... Do I still need to worship him as RRG god and savior? Seriously climbing bums, calm down...
73
Anonymous said on June 18th, 2019
Bob has done more behind the scenes and quietly than you will ever know.
74
Anonymous said on June 22nd, 2019
Incorrect. The Red would go on without Bob. Not sure what all the fanboy hero worship is about?
75
Anonymous said on June 24th, 2019
You should try harder to understand what respect is about.