The Motherlode

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 3 1 69 73

Directions to The Motherlode

This wall is on private property. Be respectful. Sign required waivers.
Drive 12.4 miles south on KY 11 from Miguel's toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498 and follow for 1.2 miles to Bald Fork Road. Take a sharp right onto Bald Fork Road and follow it as it curves left toward a house. Do not turn right at the first fork. After 0.3 miles the road turns to gravel and heads down a steep hill. At the bottom of the hill (0.8 miles) is the parking area for The Motherlode. Park on the right in the grassy patch or in a smaller gravel pulloff a little further. Locate the logging road that leads uphill from the back of the big grassy pulloff. Take the fork which immediately turns uphill to the right. If you are headed to the Madness Cave or the Undertow Wall, take the first road to the right. Move around the hill, go down and back up while staying left on the main road. As you near the crest of the second hill, turn left on a single track path which ends near Team Wilson. If you are headed to the Buckeye Buttress, Warm-up Wall, or GMC Wall, continue uphill past the road for the Undertow Wall and veer off on the second road to the right. This track will narrow to a trail a few yards before reaching the rock near Twisted.

Wall Sun: All day

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Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture


One-eyed Willy Up the Back Sport 5.11c
2.29  (24) 50ft  


Trad Sucker Sport 5.11b
3.53  (58) 40ft


The Chronic Sport 5.12b
2.74  (38) 50ft


Twisted Sport 5.11b
3.34  (47) 50ft


The Reacharound Sport 5.12c
3.82  (17) 60ft


Stain Sport 5.12c
4.80  (64) 50ft


Buff the Wood Sport 5.12b
4.54  (72) 50ft


Golden Touch Sport 5.13b
4.25  (12) 45ft


Fall of the Anticlimber (open project) Sport 5.14b


Heart Shaped Box Sport 5.12c
4.59  (58) 50ft


Overdrive Trad 5.9


Leftomaniac Sport 5.11b
3.00  (19) 70ft  


Rug Muncher Sport 5.11d
2.87  (15) 50ft  


Ball Scratcher Sport 5.12a
3.91  (58) 40ft


The Cream Machine Sport 5.10
2.88  (16) 60ft


KAPOW! Sport 5.11c
2.89  (9) 40ft  


All In Sport 5.11d
4.00  (18) 60ft


Three Wasted Bolts Mixed 5.10b
2.38  (13) 50ft  


Ben Sport 5.11a
2.84  (44) 60ft


Laura Sport 5.11b
2.88  (33) 70ft


Crescenta Trad 5.9
4.00  (1) 70ft  


Breathe Right Sport 5.11c
3.74  (43) 60ft  


Injured Reserve Sport 5.11a
3.20  (64) 60ft


Trust in Jesus Sport 5.11b
3.56  (59) 50ft


Purdy Mouth Sport 5.12b
3.89  (9) 70ft


Mr. Sandy Sport 5.14c


Take That, Katie Brown Sport 5.13b
5.00  (6) 70ft


Swahili Slang Sport 5.12c
4.87  (30) 80ft


So Low Sport 5.12b
4.17  (6) 70ft


Techno Destructo Sport 5.12b
3.33  (6) 80ft  


False Positive Sport 5.12c
4.00  (1) 70ft  


Thanatopsis Sport 5.14b
4.20  (5) 60ft


Cut Throat Sport 5.13b
5.00  (16) 70ft


8 Ball Sport 5.12d
4.94  (48) 70ft


Snooker Sport 5.13a
4.61  (38) 70ft


Hot For Teacher Sport 5.12c
4.18  (22) 80ft


White Man's Overbite Sport 5.13c
4.67  (9) 80ft


White Man's Shuffle Sport 5.13d
5.00  (3) 0ft  


Cosmic Sausage Sport 5.13a


Hell or High Water Sport 5.12c
3.25  (4) 110ft


Transworld Depravity Sport 5.14a
5.00  (8) 110ft


BOHICA Sport 5.13b
4.53  (17) 100ft


Last of the Bohicans Sport 5.13d
4.00  (2) 125ft


Flour Power Sport 5.13b
4.58  (19) 100ft


Pushin' Up Daisies Sport 5.13c
4.43  (7) 120ft  


Omaha Beach Sport 5.14a
5.00  (5) 130ft


The Madness Sport 5.13c
5.00  (10) 120ft


Fourty Ounces of Justice Sport 5.13a
4.27  (26) 110ft


Buck Eye Sport 5.13b
2.20  (5) 0ft


The Sauce Sport 5.12b
3.40  (25) 60ft  


Leave It To Beavis Sport 5.12d
4.09  (23) 90ft


Tuna Town Sport 5.12d
4.33  (36) 85ft


The Flux Capacitor Sport 5.12d
3.70  (20) 95ft


Harvest Sport 5.12d
4.00  (31) 85ft


Hoofmaker Sport 5.13a
4.69  (26) 90ft


Team Wilson Sport 5.12d
4.76  (29) 85ft


Resurrection Sport 5.12c
4.55  (44) 80ft


The High Hard One Sport 5.12d
4.28  (18) 80ft


Crime Time Sport 5.12d
3.38  (8) 75ft  


Skin Boat Sport 5.13a
4.43  (30) 80ft


Convicted Sport 5.13a
4.81  (31) 70ft


Ale-8-One Sport 5.12b
4.39  (64) 65ft


Chainsaw Massacre Sport 5.12a
4.07  (89) 60ft


The Verdict Sport 5.12b
4.00  (28) 70ft


Sam Krieg Will Bolt Anything (SKWBA) Sport 5.12a
3.00  (31) 70ft


Kick Me In the Jimmie Sport 5.12a
3.99  (76) 60ft


Burlier's Bane Sport 5.12a
3.51  (80) 60ft


Rocket Dog Sport 5.12b
4.03  (62) 50ft


The Low Easy One Sport 5.12b
3.43  (42) 50ft


Stella Sport 5.11d
3.23  (30) 50ft


Snapper Sport 5.11a
3.88  (49) 50ft


Stabbed in the Back Trad 5.10a


Scrambled Porn Sport 5.12a
2.50  (14) 60ft


ashtray said on June 24th, 2007
The most bitchin' cliff. No doubt.
allah said on June 26th, 2007
for the old guys
Anonymous said on September 8th, 2008
Pack your toilet paper and tampons out of the Lode! It looks horrible over by routes 55-56. Burying, especially under a few leaves will not keep dogs and wood rats out of your crap and TP. Leave no trace!!!!!
heavyc said on October 27th, 2011
what is the deal with the bolted slab route between ball scratcher and three wasted bolts? somebody needs to claim the fa and post it
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2014
The trail to the crag is in horrible condition and would best be avoided by as many people as possible to avoid further damage unto the mud dries out some
Anonymous said on September 29th, 2016
I believe i left my TC Pros size 41.5 at this crag. I'm local, please send me an email at [email protected] of you picked them up or know anything about them
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2018
How many people would be outraged if someone added bolts between the first several existing permadraws on all the routes in Madness Cave? It's like someone is saying "If you're not a 13 climber, get the fuck out, or die". Or at least that what it feels like to me. The climbs are above my grade, but I'd like to start working on a few. With the terrible bolting, it looks like you'd hit the deck if you fell while clipping on the first several hangers of all the routes in Madness Cave. Would ya'll hate me if I added 3 bolts per route to make these routes safer climbs? BTW, I'm already laughing at your responses.
jkpugel said on April 17th, 2018
1. Typically adding bolts requires the permission of the FA/developer so you’d have to go ask a few people. 2. If you have a solid belayer and a stick clip, you shouldn’t deck on any of these routes. Especially if you can reliably climb 5.12c/d (which is probably a good idea before subjecting your belayer to your attempts on a 5.13 project) 3. I think the bolting in the cave is just fine and many climbers before me have also been ok projecting and climbing in the cave. Believe in yourself Anonymous, one day you too can grip the grabs in the cave and not die.
DrRockso said on April 17th, 2018
I would chop your bolts. Don't get on routes that are out of your ability level. No one wants to wait in line behind you (and the others that would be tempted to get on it) while you bolt to bolt a cave route, enough of that going on already. 5.10 sections on 5.13's aren't bolted like 5.10 sections on 5.10's get over it. Is this a very poorly executed troll?
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2018
To answer your question anon, most people would be outraged. But I think you already knew that. If you can't do these as they are improve yourself until you can. The world does not revolve around you. No need to pretend it's safety and the greater good of the community you are after.
Cocoapuffs1000 said on April 17th, 2018
The reason long, steep routes are "run out" at the bottom isn't elitism. It's so that rope drag at the top is manageable. If you have any business on the climb then tehe bottom is safe and reasonable. Pushing your limits is all well and good but there is a point where it gets ridiculous. If you struggle on the 5.11 part of a 13b, you need to set your sights a little lower.
Chiyram said on April 17th, 2018
Yeah Anon! Don't climb routes in the Madness you can't do your first go! No one should be climbing routes they can't onsite.
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2018
A dumb question for sure, but I think the impressive thing here is someone willing to put that kind of effort into just "trying" a route. Anon should put that motivation to good use - there are so many routes around the red that need hardware upgrades and bolt maintenance. Good on you anon for the motivation, bad on you for suggesting something so outrageously unnecessary.
climb2core said on April 17th, 2018
These routes have existed for 20 years in their current state. I have never heard of anyone getting hurt on the starts or even complaining about unsafe bolting. I don't believe there is as much decking potential as postulated. If you want to work it and are afraid of the fall, use your stick clip. Or go climb Singularity/8122/Twinkie/Phantasia/Spank/Easy Rider/Death by Chocolate/ad naseum until you gain the fitness and confidence.
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
Go for it man!! whatever you do, don't take into consideration that it is private land or the fact that the bolting down low was engineered that way for a reason. seriously though, 1 star troll or 5 star dumbass, will we ever know which ?
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
finally, a truly douche opinion.
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
If there where hangers available between the current permadraws, you wouldn't have to use them, just breeze past like they weren't there. For us that can only climb half the route, rope drag at the top wouldn't really be a concern. I'm the original asker, and I do think I could do the bottoms just fine, but the risk isn't worth getting hurt. I obviously wouldn't do the bolting without permission from the developer, and a lot of you are jumping to conclusions because you're an elitist and have been around for a long time. 1) Bolting at night is an option. 2) I understand not wanting to wait on a weaker climber to go half way and burn out, but that's probably half the time of a strong climber going to the chains. I watched a strong climber set the first three draws for a weaker climber that fell several times before starting their lead, and then they made it a good ways up a particular 13b. Looked like fun, and the second didn't get hurt. No complete beginner is going to show up there wanting to climb, I'm just trying to get stronger on routes that I know I can climb, but don't like the idea of risking injury, beyond the typical exposure to do so. Either way, the consensus seems to be "Fuck you, get out, or die", like I assumed it was.
shadow.ayala said on April 18th, 2018
Dude, no offense but there is no reason for the bolts. If you have a good belayer, you could fuck up every move possible and NEVER deck. It sounds like you might need to spend more time looking for a real belayer and less time trying to convince people that the routes need more bolts.
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
"Fuck you, get out, or die". To be wholeheartedly honest, when I saw your original post I started scrolling down and thought "OHH man this guy is gonna get torn to shreds." Instead you got mostly very reasonable responses explaining why you CAN NOT do what you asked and others even encouraging you that things may be safer than you may have thought. There were a couple antagonistic responses, but hey it's the internet - what did you expect. And your response: butt hurt, catty, accusatory. Sorry anon, but the annals of RRC comments (and they are storied and vibrant) will forever portray you as being the bitch here.
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
if you add the bolts i’ll simply remove them if drrockso doesn’t beat me to it keenan
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
I've never been one of these people that worships at the alter of "the good old days" - back when men were tough, and everyone did cocaine, and climbing was super duper cool or whatever other BS that people say. (Cool, you climbed in the 90s, we get it) With that said, we have to have some respect for those who came before us. Touching these 20+ year old routes in this way, routes that have been climbed safely by thousands of people, would be an abomination.
climb2core said on April 18th, 2018
Curious OP anon, what's your average redpoint that you can send in day or two on a route?
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
I get it now, that's why I asked. Maybe in a couple years I'll think intermediate bolts wouldn't be necessary, and I also could be wrong about decking, but just visually inspecting the distance between bolts looked very close. If I worked a route that was my style, I'd say 11c-11d range, or maybe a nice long 12 stamina route with good holds. Madness Cave looks amazing. I need to go back and take my laser tape measure with me:)
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
There ya go Anon! A much more reasonable response. Spend a season testing yourself on some of the easier undertow routes. You'll be ready for cave greatness in no time.
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
Can we get some more bolts up high too? I only climb 5.11 also, but I'm looking to bolt to bolt some routes. Might take me a few (3-4) hours to get up there and the big spaces between bolts are really annoying . Please spare me your elitist comments
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
no one said "get the fuck out , or die" We just said you have a really stupid idea and the bolts you were never going to place anyway would be chopped in the fantasy world where you actually do place them. There's no way to cheat success in climbing, be patient and work your way up through the grades, maybe if you don't get in the way of yourself (big IF) you might find yourself tying in at the madness cave someday
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2018
Hello everyone, I agree with anon and would like more bolts in the cave too. I just got lead belay certified in my gym and sent my first 5.10b. Madness cave routes inspire me, and I would like to start projecting them. Ideally the bolts should be placed so that I can reach the next one while I go in direct on one since I don't own a stick clip.yet. Thanks
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2018
facebook would be so much more interesting if everyone always posted as 'anonymous.'
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2018
Hi I'm Lenny and I want to put more bolts in the madness cave too. I love bolts. I like to string my pee pee through the bolt hole and slowly lower my bulky mass onto it. Then as the bolt tugs and pulls on my pee pee I reach the most amazing crescendo and spray my Lenny juice down the rock face. I love bolts.
ray said on April 19th, 2018
Hey anon, I too was freaked out when starting to climb in the cave but the bottoms really aren't that bad and it never felt as runout as it looks. It's just intimidating because the draws are so long and sometimes get wrapped around your leg and shit, plus they do look for a part. Once you get the moves wired though you don't even think about it and you're just focused on getting to the ledge where the climb really starts. Anyone there will spray you down too on the moves through that crap. It's more like just a crappy approach and adding bolts to it would be like adding potted flowers along the shitty muddy dusty approach trail up to the Lode.
KyleHT said on April 20th, 2019
The only thing more classic than the Motherlode itself is this thread...lmao. Props to "Lenny" for his amazing commentary. This is all just so, so funny to me. It's like asking for a via ferrata on La Rambla, or something. Anyways, this crag, to me, is the best in the Eastern USA, period.
fosterdi said on August 25th, 2019
I left my testarossa's at the Undertow yesterday, kinda below SKWBA if I remember correctly
Anonymous said on August 25th, 2019
Got your Testarossas for ya in the Migs gearshop fosterdi. Check the rest of your stuff and see if you're missing anything else. The same friendly folks turned in a harness that was also left yesterday afternoon
Anonymous said on March 26th, 2020
PMRP, Miller Fork, and BRRP closed temporarily by order of Lee Co. Judge Executive. The county owns a tow truck too, just sayin'.