The Motherlode

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 3 1 69 73
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Directions to The Motherlode

This wall is on private property. Be respectful. Sign required waivers.
Drive 12.4 miles south on KY 11 from Miguel's toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498 and follow for 1.2 miles to Bald Fork Road. Take a sharp right onto Bald Fork Road and follow it as it curves left toward a house. Do not turn right at the first fork. After 0.3 miles the road turns to gravel and heads down a steep hill. At the bottom of the hill (0.8 miles) is the parking area for The Motherlode. Park on the right in the grassy patch or in a smaller gravel pulloff a little further. Locate the logging road that leads uphill from the back of the big grassy pulloff. Take the fork which immediately turns uphill to the right. If you are headed to the Madness Cave or the Undertow Wall, take the first road to the right. Move around the hill, go down and back up while staying left on the main road. As you near the crest of the second hill, turn left on a single track path which ends near Team Wilson. If you are headed to the Buckeye Buttress, Warm-up Wall, or GMC Wall, continue uphill past the road for the Undertow Wall and veer off on the second road to the right. This track will narrow to a trail a few yards before reaching the rock near Twisted.

Wall Sun: All day

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Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

One-eyed Willy Up the Back Sport 5.11c
 
2.27  (22) 50ft  

2

Trad Sucker Sport 5.11b
 
3.53  (51) 40ft

3

The Chronic Sport 5.12b
 
2.59  (32) 50ft

4

Twisted Sport 5.11b
 
3.33  (40) 50ft

5

The Reacharound Sport 5.12c
 
3.82  (17) 60ft

6

Stain Sport 5.12c
 
4.81  (58) 50ft

7

Buff the Wood Sport 5.12b
 
4.60  (63) 50ft

8

Golden Touch Sport 5.13b
 
4.18  (11) 45ft

8a

Fall of the Anticlimber (open project) Sport 5.14b
 
45ft

9

Heart Shaped Box Sport 5.12c
 
4.60  (50) 50ft

10

Overdrive Trad 5.9
 
70ft  

10a

Leftomaniac Sport 5.11b
 
3.23  (13) 70ft  

10b

Rug Muncher Sport 5.11d
 
2.92  (13) 50ft  

11

Ball Scratcher Sport 5.12a
 
3.90  (48) 40ft

11a

The Cream Machine Sport 5.10
 
3.00  (14) 60ft

11b

KAPOW! Sport 5.11c
 
2.75  (4) 40ft  

11c

All In Sport 5.11d
 
4.13  (15) 60ft

12

Three Wasted Bolts Mixed 5.10b
 
2.38  (13) 50ft  

12a

Ben Sport 5.11a
 
2.81  (36) 60ft

12b

Laura Sport 5.11b
 
2.81  (32) 70ft

13

Crescenta Trad 5.9
 
4.00  (1) 70ft  

14

Breathe Right Sport 5.11c
 
3.74  (35) 60ft  

15

Injured Reserve Sport 5.11a
 
3.22  (58) 60ft

16

Trust in Jesus Sport 5.11b
 
3.60  (50) 50ft

17

Purdy Mouth Sport 5.12b
 
4.00  (7) 70ft

17a

Mr. Sandy Sport 5.14c
 
70ft  

18

Take That, Katie Brown Sport 5.13b
 
5.00  (5) 70ft

19

Swahili Slang Sport 5.12c
 
4.86  (29) 80ft

20

So Low Sport 5.12b
 
4.33  (3) 70ft

21

Techno Destructo Sport 5.12b
 
3.33  (6) 80ft  

21a

False Positive Sport 5.12c
 
4.00  (1) 70ft  

22

Thanatopsis Sport 5.14b
 
4.20  (5) 60ft

23

Cut Throat Sport 5.13b
 
5.00  (13) 70ft

24

8 Ball Sport 5.12d
 
4.96  (45) 70ft

25

Snooker Sport 5.13a
 
4.62  (34) 70ft

26

Hot For Teacher Sport 5.12c
 
4.28  (18) 80ft

27

White Man's Overbite Sport 5.13c
 
4.67  (9) 80ft

27a

White Man's Shuffle Sport 5.13d
 
5.00  (3) 0ft  

28

Cosmic Sausage Sport 5.13a
 
100ft  

28a

Hell or High Water Sport 5.12c
 
4.00  (3) 110ft

28b

Transworld Depravity Sport 5.14a
 
5.00  (7) 110ft

29

BOHICA Sport 5.13b
 
4.53  (15) 100ft

29a

Last of the Bohicans Sport 5.13d
 
4.00  (2) 125ft

30

Flour Power Sport 5.13b
 
4.53  (17) 100ft

30a

Pushin' Up Daisies Sport 5.13c
 
4.20  (5) 120ft  

31

Omaha Beach Sport 5.14a
 
5.00  (4) 130ft

32

The Madness Sport 5.13c
 
5.00  (9) 120ft

33

Fourty Ounces of Justice Sport 5.13a
 
4.24  (21) 110ft

33a

Buck Eye Sport 5.13b
 
2.20  (5) 0ft

34

The Sauce Sport 5.12b
 
3.20  (15) 60ft  

35

Leave It To Beavis Sport 5.12d
 
4.10  (20) 90ft

36

Tuna Town Sport 5.12d
 
4.27  (33) 85ft

37

The Flux Capacitor Sport 5.12d
 
3.71  (17) 95ft

38

Harvest Sport 5.12d
 
4.00  (27) 85ft

39

Hoofmaker Sport 5.13a
 
4.75  (24) 90ft

40

Team Wilson Sport 5.12d
 
4.75  (24) 85ft

41

Resurrection Sport 5.12c
 
4.55  (40) 80ft  

42

The High Hard One Sport 5.12d
 
4.33  (15) 80ft

43

Crime Time Sport 5.12d
 
3.40  (5) 75ft  

44

Skin Boat Sport 5.13a
 
4.41  (27) 80ft

45

Convicted Sport 5.13a
 
4.81  (26) 70ft

46

Ale-8-One Sport 5.12b
 
4.40  (55) 65ft

47

Chainsaw Massacre Sport 5.12a
 
4.14  (81) 60ft

48

The Verdict Sport 5.12b
 
4.04  (25) 70ft

48a

Sam Krieg Will Bolt Anything (SKWBA) Sport 5.12a
 
3.00  (28) 70ft

49

Kick Me In the Jimmie Sport 5.12a
 
4.01  (67) 60ft

50

Burlier's Bane Sport 5.12a
 
3.55  (71) 60ft

51

Rocket Dog Sport 5.12b
 
4.04  (54) 50ft

52

The Low Easy One Sport 5.12b
 
3.40  (35) 50ft

53

Stella Sport 5.11d
 
3.25  (28) 50ft

54

Snapper Sport 5.11a
 
3.87  (47) 50ft

55

Stabbed in the Back Trad 5.10a
 
80ft  

56

Scrambled Porn Sport 5.12a
 
2.10  (10) 60ft

Comments

1
ashtray said on June 24th, 2007
The most bitchin' cliff. No doubt.
2
allah said on June 26th, 2007
for the old guys
3
Anonymous said on September 8th, 2008
Pack your toilet paper and tampons out of the Lode! It looks horrible over by routes 55-56. Burying, especially under a few leaves will not keep dogs and wood rats out of your crap and TP. Leave no trace!!!!!
4
heavyc said on October 27th, 2011
what is the deal with the bolted slab route between ball scratcher and three wasted bolts? somebody needs to claim the fa and post it
5
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2014
The trail to the crag is in horrible condition and would best be avoided by as many people as possible to avoid further damage unto the mud dries out some
6
Anonymous said on September 28th, 2016
I believe i left my TC Pros size 41.5 at this crag. I'm local, please send me an email at [email protected] of you picked them up or know anything about them
7
Anonymous said on April 16th, 2018
How many people would be outraged if someone added bolts between the first several existing permadraws on all the routes in Madness Cave? It's like someone is saying "If you're not a 13 climber, get the fuck out, or die". Or at least that what it feels like to me. The climbs are above my grade, but I'd like to start working on a few. With the terrible bolting, it looks like you'd hit the deck if you fell while clipping on the first several hangers of all the routes in Madness Cave. Would ya'll hate me if I added 3 bolts per route to make these routes safer climbs? BTW, I'm already laughing at your responses.
8
jkpugel said on April 16th, 2018
1. Typically adding bolts requires the permission of the FA/developer so you’d have to go ask a few people. 2. If you have a solid belayer and a stick clip, you shouldn’t deck on any of these routes. Especially if you can reliably climb 5.12c/d (which is probably a good idea before subjecting your belayer to your attempts on a 5.13 project) 3. I think the bolting in the cave is just fine and many climbers before me have also been ok projecting and climbing in the cave. Believe in yourself Anonymous, one day you too can grip the grabs in the cave and not die.
9
DrRockso said on April 17th, 2018
I would chop your bolts. Don't get on routes that are out of your ability level. No one wants to wait in line behind you (and the others that would be tempted to get on it) while you bolt to bolt a cave route, enough of that going on already. 5.10 sections on 5.13's aren't bolted like 5.10 sections on 5.10's get over it. Is this a very poorly executed troll?
10
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2018
To answer your question anon, most people would be outraged. But I think you already knew that. If you can't do these as they are improve yourself until you can. The world does not revolve around you. No need to pretend it's safety and the greater good of the community you are after.
11
Cocoapuffs1000 said on April 17th, 2018
The reason long, steep routes are "run out" at the bottom isn't elitism. It's so that rope drag at the top is manageable. If you have any business on the climb then tehe bottom is safe and reasonable. Pushing your limits is all well and good but there is a point where it gets ridiculous. If you struggle on the 5.11 part of a 13b, you need to set your sights a little lower.
12
Chiyram said on April 17th, 2018
Yeah Anon! Don't climb routes in the Madness you can't do your first go! No one should be climbing routes they can't onsite.
13
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2018
A dumb question for sure, but I think the impressive thing here is someone willing to put that kind of effort into just "trying" a route. Anon should put that motivation to good use - there are so many routes around the red that need hardware upgrades and bolt maintenance. Good on you anon for the motivation, bad on you for suggesting something so outrageously unnecessary.
14
climb2core said on April 17th, 2018
These routes have existed for 20 years in their current state. I have never heard of anyone getting hurt on the starts or even complaining about unsafe bolting. I don't believe there is as much decking potential as postulated. If you want to work it and are afraid of the fall, use your stick clip. Or go climb Singularity/8122/Twinkie/Phantasia/Spank/Easy Rider/Death by Chocolate/ad naseum until you gain the fitness and confidence.
15
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2018
Go for it man!! whatever you do, don't take into consideration that it is private land or the fact that the bolting down low was engineered that way for a reason. seriously though, 1 star troll or 5 star dumbass, will we ever know which ?
16
Anonymous said on April 17th, 2018
finally, a truly douche opinion.
17
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
If there where hangers available between the current permadraws, you wouldn't have to use them, just breeze past like they weren't there. For us that can only climb half the route, rope drag at the top wouldn't really be a concern. I'm the original asker, and I do think I could do the bottoms just fine, but the risk isn't worth getting hurt. I obviously wouldn't do the bolting without permission from the developer, and a lot of you are jumping to conclusions because you're an elitist and have been around for a long time. 1) Bolting at night is an option. 2) I understand not wanting to wait on a weaker climber to go half way and burn out, but that's probably half the time of a strong climber going to the chains. I watched a strong climber set the first three draws for a weaker climber that fell several times before starting their lead, and then they made it a good ways up a particular 13b. Looked like fun, and the second didn't get hurt. No complete beginner is going to show up there wanting to climb, I'm just trying to get stronger on routes that I know I can climb, but don't like the idea of risking injury, beyond the typical exposure to do so. Either way, the consensus seems to be "Fuck you, get out, or die", like I assumed it was.
18
shadow.ayala said on April 18th, 2018
Dude, no offense but there is no reason for the bolts. If you have a good belayer, you could fuck up every move possible and NEVER deck. It sounds like you might need to spend more time looking for a real belayer and less time trying to convince people that the routes need more bolts.
19
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
"Fuck you, get out, or die". To be wholeheartedly honest, when I saw your original post I started scrolling down and thought "OHH man this guy is gonna get torn to shreds." Instead you got mostly very reasonable responses explaining why you CAN NOT do what you asked and others even encouraging you that things may be safer than you may have thought. There were a couple antagonistic responses, but hey it's the internet - what did you expect. And your response: butt hurt, catty, accusatory. Sorry anon, but the annals of RRC comments (and they are storied and vibrant) will forever portray you as being the bitch here.
20
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
if you add the bolts i’ll simply remove them if drrockso doesn’t beat me to it keenan
21
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
I've never been one of these people that worships at the alter of "the good old days" - back when men were tough, and everyone did cocaine, and climbing was super duper cool or whatever other BS that people say. (Cool, you climbed in the 90s, we get it) With that said, we have to have some respect for those who came before us. Touching these 20+ year old routes in this way, routes that have been climbed safely by thousands of people, would be an abomination.
22
climb2core said on April 18th, 2018
Curious OP anon, what's your average redpoint that you can send in day or two on a route?
23
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
I get it now, that's why I asked. Maybe in a couple years I'll think intermediate bolts wouldn't be necessary, and I also could be wrong about decking, but just visually inspecting the distance between bolts looked very close. If I worked a route that was my style, I'd say 11c-11d range, or maybe a nice long 12 stamina route with good holds. Madness Cave looks amazing. I need to go back and take my laser tape measure with me:)
24
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
There ya go Anon! A much more reasonable response. Spend a season testing yourself on some of the easier undertow routes. You'll be ready for cave greatness in no time.
25
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
Can we get some more bolts up high too? I only climb 5.11 also, but I'm looking to bolt to bolt some routes. Might take me a few (3-4) hours to get up there and the big spaces between bolts are really annoying . Please spare me your elitist comments
26
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
no one said "get the fuck out , or die" We just said you have a really stupid idea and the bolts you were never going to place anyway would be chopped in the fantasy world where you actually do place them. There's no way to cheat success in climbing, be patient and work your way up through the grades, maybe if you don't get in the way of yourself (big IF) you might find yourself tying in at the madness cave someday
27
Anonymous said on April 18th, 2018
Hello everyone, I agree with anon and would like more bolts in the cave too. I just got lead belay certified in my gym and sent my first 5.10b. Madness cave routes inspire me, and I would like to start projecting them. Ideally the bolts should be placed so that I can reach the next one while I go in direct on one since I don't own a stick clip.yet. Thanks
28
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2018
facebook would be so much more interesting if everyone always posted as 'anonymous.'
29
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2018
Hi I'm Lenny and I want to put more bolts in the madness cave too. I love bolts. I like to string my pee pee through the bolt hole and slowly lower my bulky mass onto it. Then as the bolt tugs and pulls on my pee pee I reach the most amazing crescendo and spray my Lenny juice down the rock face. I love bolts.
30
ray said on April 19th, 2018
Hey anon, I too was freaked out when starting to climb in the cave but the bottoms really aren't that bad and it never felt as runout as it looks. It's just intimidating because the draws are so long and sometimes get wrapped around your leg and shit, plus they do look for a part. Once you get the moves wired though you don't even think about it and you're just focused on getting to the ledge where the climb really starts. Anyone there will spray you down too on the moves through that crap. It's more like just a crappy approach and adding bolts to it would be like adding potted flowers along the shitty muddy dusty approach trail up to the Lode.