COVID-19 Climbing Closures: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - are closed. Please stay home and stay safe. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Eagle Point Buttress

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 15 1 - 19
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Directions to Eagle Point Buttress

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. KY 77 curves left near an old barn while KY 715 continues straight. Stay on KY 715 (do not take the curve to the left) for about 7.1 miles until you reach a one lane concrete bridge. Park just before the bridge on the left. Hike down to the river and follow the trail along the river past some garbage, modern man petroglyphs (aka graffiti), firepits, hungover campers, and a couple of limestone caves. After about a half mile you will cross a tributary and come to a large, flat campsite. Veer left and away from the main trail at this point and follow an old logging road that heads uphill toward the cliff.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture

1

 Cranky Trad 5.8
 
 70ft  

2

 Southern Comfort Trad 5.8
 
 70ft

3

 Foxfire Trad 5.7
 
 3.88  (51) 200ft

4

 Day Dreaming Trad 5.9+
 
 4.18  (34) 80ft

5

 Day Tripping Trad 5.10
 
 5.00  (24) 270ft

5a

 Day-Yum! Trad 5.10
 
 5.00  (3) 250ft

6

 Twin Cracks Trad 5.9+
 
 2.92  (12) 70ft  

7

 Pussy Whipped Trad 5.10a
 
 3.00  (1) 50ft  

8

 The Integral Trad 5.7
 
 200ft  

9

 Sothern Hospitality Trad 5.7
 
 70ft  

10

 Crude Boys Trad 5.7
 
 70ft  

11

 The Hangover Problem Trad 5.8
 
 2.43  (7) 70ft

12

 If My Number's Up Trad 5.9
 
 2.67  (6) 70ft  

13

 Crackaluffagus Bouldering V2
 
 2.00  (1) 15ft  

14

 Blister in the Sun Trad 5.9
 
 4.50  (18) 85ft

15

 Scary Toprope 5.9
 
 3.00  (2) 85ft  

16

 Scared As a Virgin Trad 5.8+
 
 3.60  (5) 85ft  

17

 Tinker's Toy Toprope 5.8-
 
 85ft  

18

 Quantum Mechanics Mixed 5.9
 
 4.50  (4) 85ft  

19

 Cooler Than Kissing Toprope 5.10a
 
 3.00  (2) 85ft  

Comments

7 comments {add your own comments}
1
Anonymous said on November 22nd, 2003
Does anyone know where it is that the kid from Ohio, took the fatal spill at? Hear it was at Eagle Point Buttress but don't know where. Not gothic or anything just wanted to know if anyone's closed area off - incident happened on 15 Nov 03 from what I can gather.
2
Ascentionist said on February 1st, 2006
Foxfire GPS: 37.8262°N, 83.5622°W, Western walkup: 37.8271°N, 83.5637°W, Eastern walkup: 37.8264°N, 83.5606°W
3
Ascentionist said on February 23rd, 2009
Better directions: Hike along the river upstream from the Concrete Bridge. Pay attention after passing a ledge traverse above the river. Look for a slabby, mossy boulder on the left right next to the trail. Soon after that there is a huge piano shaped boulder between the trail and the river. Just after the Piano Boulder you cross a muddy tributary and come to a flat open campsite. Take the road/trail that angles up the hill ahead of you, shooting for a prominent tall buttress. When the trail nears the rock look for a faint trail that heads back left (west) along the base of the cliff. Look for a wide angling crack behind a large tree. This is the start of the route. You don't need wide gear for this route.
4
Anonymous said on March 9th, 2009
Ascentionist's Foxfire GPS is actually the Parking Lot at the Bridge.
5
Ascentionist said on March 13th, 2009
I think my intention was to get you to the right parking area which makes the rest of the directions easy, and then give you the GPS for the two walkups so you could find the top and/or east descent. Might should have elaborated a bit more...
6
discoweasel said on January 23rd, 2015
Anonymous: I believe you are mistaken about the GPS coordinates. Ascentionist's Foxfire coordinates are nowhere near a road (I can't vouch for them being at Foxfire, but they sure aren't at a parking lot!). Simply looking at a map, I have the parking lot at 37.820319, -83.57494. Looking at the Google satellite images, the Foxfire coordinates look to be just that... The parking lot is easy to find anyway since the one-lane concrete bridge offers a clear any easy to find landmark.
7
Ascentionist said on January 5th, 2016
Checked it: 37.8262, -83.5622 is right. That's spot on the top of the buttress. Hope this info was timely...