Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 21 - 46 67
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Directions to Solar Collector and Gold Coast

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11. You will pass Roadside and Torrent on the way. Turn right on Fixer Rd and make your first left. Take that road for 3.5 miles (making sure not to turn left where the road seems to want to take you) until you see a black oil tank on your left with a face painted on it. Make a right at the oil tank and then take the second right. Drive down a hill and park just to the right of a steep road that branches left. The main parking area is located here near the kiosk for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve. From the parking area, walk a few feet past the kiosk to locate the trail marker. Follow the trail down and across a small bridge then along a dirt road for a few hundred yards until it heads off into the woods. Stay on the trail until it branches off to the right. You will see signs pointing the direction to the Solar Collector and The Darkside. Taking a right and heading uphill will take you to the Solar Collector. If you continue straight on the trail, it will take you to The Darkside.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

0

The Decline of Western Civilization Sport 5.10a
 
45
Furthest left route at Solar Collector. Steepness:

1

Super Pinch Sport 5.10d
 
50
This is the first bolted route encountered when the trail meets the wall. Climb the slightly overhanging wall making use of pinches and slopers to the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
pinches-1

2

Mona Lisa Overdrive Sport 5.11b
 
55
This is the second bolted route from the left on the main wall. Boulder a tough start to a sit down rest in a hueco. Creep out of the hueco onto the face and continue to the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-2 : exposed-2

3

Green Horn Sport 5.11a
 
55
This is the third bolted route from the left on the main wall. Climb up to a large hueco then negotiate a way out. Continue up the face to some anchors. Steepness:
Tags
confusing-2

4

Chickenboy Sport 5.11b
 
70
This is the fourth bolted line from the left on the main wall. Step a few feet right of Greenhorns and begin climbing. Steepness:

4a

Psychochicken Trad 5.11b
 
75
Play a dangerous game of connect-the-huecos using the discontinuous seam system between Psychopathy and Chickenboy for pro. Continue to the old anchor above the Chickenboy hueco following the crack system on an old mixed route. Steepness:

5

Psychopathy Sport 5.12c
 
65
This is the fifth bolted route from the left on the main wall. Look for a bolted line with a blank section about midway up. Climb the line and try clipping the bolt at the crux. If you can't clip it, skip it and run to the next one. Steepness:

6

Ethics Police Sport 5.11d
 
75
This is the sixth bolted route from the left on the main wall. Climb up to a large hueco. Cross out of the hueco then hang on for a few moves to get to easier ground. Angle slightly left to the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-5 : fun-5 : arete-1 : juggy-2 : bouldery-9

7

Buddha Hole Sport 5.11d
 
75
This is the seventh bolted route from the left on the main wall. Boulder up into a hueco and relax. Move out of the hueco and onto the face. Make a couple of bouldery moves then enjoy jugs to the anchors. Steepness:

8

Herd Mentality Sport 5.12c
 
70
This is the crimpfest just right of Buddha Hole. Boulder up to a sit down rest in a large hueco then head out left and up through crimps to the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
steep-1 : contrived-1 : technical-3

9

Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus Sport 5.12b
 
70
This route lies just right of Herd Mentality and just before the last bolted line on the wall. Boulder up to the large hueco and take a breather. Crank out over the top of the hueco and stretch for the next bolt. Climb through sustained pockets and crimps to reach a point where you move left. Edge left and take on the more overhanging headwall to the anchors. Steepness:

10

Supafly Sport 5.12a
 
70
This is the last bolted route before the dihedral on the main wall. Begin on the large flat boulder and make some tough moves to reach the hueco. Take a rest then move left out to the face. Climb through sustained edges and pockets to the anchors. Pumpy. Steepness:
Tags
classic-3 : pockets-7

10a

Space Junk Sport 5.12c
 
70
Next route to the right of Supafly, the last on the right. Begin on Supafly and climb to the rest, from where you bust out right through solid crimps and big moves to a "rest". Tell yourself you have done the crux, then proceed to the crux pulling off some cool moves on bad holds. Get the last bolt clipped and it's smooth sailing from there. Steepness:

11

Yakuza Trad 5.9
 
90
This is the obvious overhanging left-facing dihedral at the rightmost end of the main wall just past the bolted lines. Steepness:

11a

Brouwer Power Sport 5.11d
 
70
The long chocolate slab between Yakuza and Buttsweat. Get your crimp on for a short burly crux, then cruise to the top on enjoyable balancey moves, hand traversing left above the third bolt along an iron rail to clip the 4th. Steepness:

11b

Buttsweat and Tears Sport 5.10c
 
65
The slab just left of Brambly Downslide. Slopey start up to cool finger locks and a devious crux. Steepness:

12

Brambly Downslide Sport 5.10a
 
75
Walk right from Yakuza to a slab wall with many water grooves before the black and tan Gold Coast wall starts. This route is the first bolted line on this wall. Enjoy fun and technical slab climbing. Steepness:

13

Spring Jammers and Widget Blocks Trad 5.10d
 
75  
Walk right of BD 10 feet. This climb starts with a bouldery start a few feet right of a wide smooth swath of rock. Enjoy technical gear and moves. Steepness:

14

Damascus Sport 5.12b
 
50  
Walk around the corner and beneath an overhang with a crack from the previous routes until you come to a beautiful orange and brown streaked wall. On the left side of the wall there is a large fat flake about halfway up. To the left of the flake, on the short face, are two bolted routes. This route is the first from the left. Climb up past some loose rock to a shelf 20 feet up to begin. Clip a fixed chain the climb out and over a short overhang to gain the main face. Continue up the slightly overhanging face to anchors just before a sloping ledge. Steepness:

15

Black Plague Sport 5.12a
 
50  
This route lies just right of Gold Coast Route 1 and is the second from the left on the wall. It also starts with a sort of roof. Steepness:

16

Black Gold Sport 5.13c
 
60
Move 30 feet right of the previous lines to a taller section of the wall. Climb up past shelves to a large ledge 15 feet up. Climb over loose rock then head left for 3 bolts to a dark brown streak. Continue straight up the blank face to anchors in a hueco just before the top. Steepness:
Tags
sunny-6

17

God's Own Stone Sport 5.14a
 
65
Start the same as Black Gold but angle right after the first two bolts. Power up the golden face to the anchors just before a large horizontal. Steepness:

18

Twenty Four Karats Sport 5.14c
 
65
Just right of God's Own Stone used to be two long standing open projects. In November of 2010, visiting climber Jonathan Siegriest combined the top half of the first project with bottom half of the second project to create this exceptional line. A bolt was added to link the two and the old bolts were removed then later re-added to the right line to bring back the original project. The climbing consists of deadpoints and delicate movement on shallow pockets and sloping edges. Steepness:

18a

Gold Star Project Sport 5.14+
 
65  
Begin on Twenty Four Karats and head straight up instead of shifting left. This line was a long standing project until the lower half was combined with the upper half of the project to its left to create Twenty Four Karats. The bolts from the upper half of this route were removed by the first ascentionist of Twenty Four Karats but then re-added later to bring back the project. Steepness:

19

100 Ounces of Gold Sport 5.14a
 
65
30 feet right of Gold Star Project lies this shallow pocketed, fat finger challenged, rarely done but excellent line which travels straight up a gold streak between two black streaks. Steepness:

20

Golden Boy Sport 5.13b
 
65
This route tackles the next line of bolts about 15 feet right of 100 Ounces of Gold. Steepness:

21

True Love Sport 5.13d
 
65
This crimping testpiece begins just right of Golden Boy. Climb the same start or slightly right to reach the face where the insanity begins. Power out about 15 desperate moves which increase in difficulty as you approach the jug. Continue down the home stretch to the chains and don't blow it! Steepness:

21a

Goldilocks Sport 5.14a
 
60  
Crimpy line right of True Love Steepness:

22

Suns Out Guns Out Sport 5.12b
 
50
This route follows an obvious feature and begins on a high ledge right of True Love. Begin with a big cross move to a pocket then bust up to a flake. Ride the flake to enter a sea of pockets and edges. Make the right decision on which holds to grab and you might just have enough left to beat the smackdown going for the anchors. Steepness:

23

No Fluff Sport 5.11d
 
45  
Another shorty right of Suns Out Guns Out which packs a mean punch for its length and grade. So much fun you'll want to climb it twice. Steepness:

24

Brilliant Orange Sport 5.13a
 
60  
This is the next route just right of No Fluff. Belay from the platform. Climb through sustained moves to an exciting dyno going for the anchors. Steepness:

25

Mr. Roarke Sport 5.12c
 
0  
This is the last route on the gold streaked overhanging wall. Belay from the platform as with the previous two routes. Climb up a sustained face until you reach the last bolt. Lower from the last bolt for a grade of 5.12c or continue up to the anchors to send an open project. Steepness:

26

Gecko Circus Sport 5.13b
 
80  
Walk around a blunt corner 100 feet right from the previous lines until the ground flattens. This is the first vertical bolted route you see which lies about 6 feet left of the detached pinnacle which Calming Curtis climbs. Steepness:

27

Erik's First 5.6 Trad 5.9-
 
35
Walk past the Gold Coast sport routes to a pair of nice looking cracks ascending a small pilar and sharing the same anchors. This route ascends the crack on the left and gets a little wide towards the top. Steepness:

28

Erik's Second 5.6 Trad 5.9+
 
35  
This is crack just right of Calming Curtis and shares the same anchors. Climb a slabby start to a thin crack which widens toward the top. Steepness:

29

Smoothie Nut Trad 5.10b
 
60
This route ascends the striking, thin, left-facing dihedral just 15 feet right of Liken the Lichen. Steepness:
Tags
adventerous-2 : fingers-1 : dihedral-2 : beautiful-1 : shady-1

30

Red Shift Sport 5.11d
 
50
Walk about 20 feet right from Smoothie Nut to locate this slab route which begins on top of a boulder. Climb the less than vertical face which gets steeper toward the top and end beneath a block. Steepness:

31

Hand Drills and Hand Grenades Trad 5.10d
 
60  
Takes on the finger crack above the anchors on Red Shift past two bolts on the face to a second set of anchors above. Steepness:

32

Dark Matter Trad 5.11a
 
50
Ascend the crack just right of Red Shift to anchors on that route. Steepness:

32a

Hot Pursuit Trad 5.10b
 
60
This route starts in the dihedral to the right and uphill of the red shift area. Tight fingers and tips locks lead to a small squeeze chimney. Find some tricky gear and move into the upper dihedral and top out on a nice belay ledge with bolted anchors. Steepness:

33

Not Named Trad 5.9+
 
65  
This is the dihedral just left of and uphill from No Name. Climb the dihedral, past one small section of choss, up to the notch between the pinnacle/buttress and the main wall. Recharge, then continue up the face to the tough topout, peeking around left for the occasional piece of pro. Enjoy a stellar view of Coal Bank Hollow at the top. Steepness:

34

David and Goliath Sport 5.12a
 
55  
Walk right from the previous lines about 75 feet and past a dirty dihedral to a downward sloping portion of the trail. Spot a bolted line furthest up on the slant. Climb through bouldery moves on pockets Steepness:

35

Zone of Silence Sport 5.12b
 
55
Begins 15 feet right of the previous line. This contrived line wants to follow what would be an excellent 12c, but climbers are staying right, on the path of least resistance, making it a not-so-great 5.12a/b. Steepness:

36

Amelia's Birthday Sport 5.11b
 
60
This line climbs the face just right of the previous route. Begin on a small ledge and climb the pocketed face past 4 bolts to a 15 foot runout before the anchors. Steepness:

37

Highway Turtle Sport 5.11d
 
0
This route is located 10 feet right of Amelia's Birthday and ascends an overhanging pocketed face from right to left. Steepness:
Tags
runout-1

37a

All Gold Everything Sport 5.11d
 
50
Sequential moves on slopey pockets lead to a beta intensive crux on solid orange rock. Steepness:
Tags
slopey-4 : stout-2 : short-1

37b

Gold Nugget Sport 5.12a
 
45
Around the corner on the same gigantic boulder as Highway Turtle is this gently overhanging golden face. Continuous moves on pockets and strenuous underclings with tricky clips leads to a climactic finish move and ledge topout... clip the last bolt from above if you are too pumped to clip! Get an attentive belay due to the big tree lurking below. Steepness:

38

From the Ashes Trad 5.8+
 
65  
Walk right from Highway Turtle into the recently burned area. Head up to the wall to the right of the buttress/pinnacle and climb a crack and face system, taking care not to pull off or place pro behind one or two small choss/death blocks. Top out and enjoy a great view of Coal Bank Hollow. Steepness:

38b

Explanatory Gap Sport 5.11c
 
50
Excellent tricky face climbing up to a hard and committing crux at the roof. Steepness:

38c

Golden Shower Sport 5.12a
 
65
More tricky face climbing on perfect orange rock leads to a wild bouldery crux sequence out the roof. For the non-slabmasters, consider hanging the 2nd draw with a stick clip. Not recommended when the shower is "turned on." Steepness:
Tags
vertical-1

39

Futuristic Testpiece Trad 5.4
 
50
Walk about 300 yards right from Highway Turtle until the trail heads down the hill and then back up to meet the cliffline again just beneath Riptide Ride. Walk left about 50 feet to locate this chimney system which leads to the top of the buttress. Steepness:

40

Riptide Ride Trad 5.10c
 
55
This is the obvious thin dihedral which has a unique hueco about 20 feet up. It is located 50 feet right of Futuristic Testpiece where the trail meets up with the cliff. Enjoy excellent climbing with challenging gear placements. Steepness:

41

Sunny the Boxer Sport 5.9
 
85
Walk right from Riptide Ride until you come to a slab wall with a couple of bolted lines sharing the first two bolts. This line moves up and left after the second bolt to end in a slot. Steepness:

42

Lucky Duck Soup Sport 5.5
 
0
This short route shares the first two bolts with the previous line but continues straight up to its own set of anchors. Steepness:

43

The Perfect Pint Trad 5.4
 
0
This route ascends the short splitter hand crack just right of Lucky Duck Soup. Steepness:

44

Chester Fried Chicken Trad 5.4
 
0
Arching dihedral 8 feet right of previous route. Steepness:

45

Fubar Trad 5.10c
 
60
Steep lieback crack left of Rebar that eventually joins with it after the large hueco near the top. Steepness:

46

Rebar Trad 5.11a
 
60
Just right of Chester Fried Chicken you'll see two obvious cracks splitting the face. This route ascends the left of the two cracks. Begin by climbing Broken Chicken Wing then step left when the crack splits into two. Steepness:

47

Broken Chicken Wing Trad 5.9+
 
60
Classic. This route ascends the left angling hand crack just right of Rebar. Climb hands and fingers to a nice rest then tackle the last few feet for an exposed clipping stance. Steepness:
Tags
hands-1 : fists-1

48

Green Tea Trad 5.9
 
50
Start by pulling a tricky boulder problem and follow the path of least resistance through mild mantles. Get some good gear and make a few big moves on big holds to the chains. Steepness:

49

Norway on my Mind Sport 5.9-
 
45
Start by climbing up and through a hueco just left of "Slow Jack". Follow the path of least resistance and imagine a lovely Norwegian princess on belay. Steepness:

50

Slow Jack Trad 5.7
 
45
30 ft. right of the previous line is this clean dihedral with fun stemming and small gear. Finish below the roof on chain anchors. Steepness:

50a

Pyrite Sport 5.11c
 
60
Right of the Slow Jack corner is this technical face climb with a bulging finish. Stem up the dihedral to the high first bolt, then pull an exciting mantle manuever onto the sloping ledge. From there it's all crimps, high-steps, & sinker pockets to the chains. Steepness:

51

Should've Known Better Trad 5.7
 
65
Locate this crack 30 feet left of "On the Prowl". Climb ramp, with no protection, to obvious tree before the crack starts. Watch out for the meteor size boulder that rest on that tree. Its one huge MUD ball. Sling the tree and maneuver your way around the tree and on top of the boulder where you get your first piece of gear in. Climb dihedral on soft rock until you reach a ledge. Traverse right 20 feet to anchors. Steepness:
Tags
pile-1 : scary-1

52

On the Prowl Sport 5.10a
 
50
This route is located just left of the obvious arete where the "Rebar" approach trail meets the cliff. Begin from a small ledge located 5-10 feet above the trail and tip-toe on up the easy technical slab above. You may want to use the arete near the top. Steepness:

53

Peer Review Sport 5.10b
 
35  
50 feet right of the trailhead and On the Prowl are two short bolted lines. This is the first of the two and ascends a featured face. This route has become popular due to the fact that it may be a top contender for the worst route in the Red. Steepness:

54

7-11 Sport 5.7
 
45
Just right of Peer Review is another short bolted line on an arete. Although a blank looking face the grade is due to the fact that it's possible to stem off to the left. Steepness:

Comments

1
JR said on March 31st, 2008
What is up with the extra set of achors near Psychopathy? They seem to be anchors for the crack system. Has any one led it? or Know anything about it?
2
Gaar said on May 2nd, 2008
Yeah, I inquired about it long ago, and got no responce....I lead it on gear cliping the first 3 or 4 bolts of Chicken Boy about 3 years ago..Felt like easy 11 finger crack plus the start to chicken boy makes it 5.11ish....Gear is one Blue TCU, two Yellow TCU's, and one Orange and one Red TCU...Can be placed in any order.
3
dustonian said on October 16th, 2009
Sounds cool!
4
Nick said on October 22nd, 2009
Jonathan Siegrist did work at this crag over the weekend! golden boy, black gold, god's own stone all first try and true love 2nd try. this is sick
5
Jeff said on January 8th, 2012
What's the deal with the rope hanging left of On The Prowl? It's been there for years. The line looks like it has potential. Also, what's up with the mess of rope that's been hanging above Hiway Turtle forever?
6
Saxman said on April 11th, 2012
Removed the ancient rope above Highway Turtle. So old it had moss growing on it.
7
pigsteak said on January 9th, 2013
jeff, I am going to bolt that line this spring where that rope is hanging left of On The Prowl....too good to just be left like that.
8
dustonian said on January 9th, 2013
Yeah that one does look good. Jeff's rope? Figured it was an old Wes proj.
9
pigsteak said on January 9th, 2013
not jeffs...no idea who it belongs to...dustin, if you get to it first, bolt it. that rope has been hanging from that anchor for easily three years.
10
dustonian said on January 9th, 2013
Race ya.... j/k take it. Looks like a cool vert route if it has holds. My plate is full with all those rebolting crap.
11
pigsteak said on January 13th, 2013
pulled the rope and put the hardware in today...also got one bolted between this and pyrite....get some dryness I'll see if they are in my league.
12
dustonian said on March 25th, 2013
Routes 37a through 38c are some of the warmest and most sheltered around (in the PM)
13
J-Ru said on January 18th, 2015
What are the routes between Pyrite and On the Prowl? There are two or three and look pretty cool (and maybe hard). Based on the comments, Pigsteak bolted one of them.
14
pigsteak said on January 18th, 2015
I did bolt three lines right there...the rightmost one went at 12c if I recall..the two on the left were never sent by me. If they still have red tags by all means pull em.
15
Anonymous said on March 16th, 2016
Anyone find a south guidebook left either at the solar collector or beneath golden boy? if found call 612 850 0105
16
fosterdi said on April 11th, 2016
climbed here yesterday, awesome wall. only complaint, the south guidebook is misleading. The written directions are correct, but the map showing fixer road is wrong. The road drawn on the map is cave fork road. This took at least 30 more minutes because of how poor the road conditions were. Again, don't trust the map in the south guidebook, just read the paragraph on directions and follow that, or use your phones map. Ill post a photo with the correct road drawn in soon.
17
fosterdi said on April 11th, 2016
Here's a somewhat fixed map, http://i.imgur.com/26vSvvb.jpg. The correct road still runs of the map, but it should help
18
Anonymous said on April 11th, 2016
lol... no doubt that was an interesting drive
19
fosterdi said on April 13th, 2016
when we got to the parking lot and saw a Hyundai Sonata we knew we took the wrong road. that thing would never have gotten through what we did
20
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2016
BTW there is no rock on Cave Fork so don't even bother looking
21
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2016
Lol nope the map is correct your navigation just sucks and you missed the turn off for fixer.
22
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2016
The small stream below fixer road on the map you uploaded is where Cave Run road runs but is not shown on the map. Next time put down the joint and pay attention to where you are driving.
23
fosterdi said on April 13th, 2016
Anon you are so wrong. Here is the map from the motherload region page. http://i.imgur.com/rvViwzA.jpg The newly labeled fixer road is the correct road to take. here is a google map screen shot to confirm. I drew in the road to parking for Coal Bank Hollow. http://i.imgur.com/z07eOu7.jpg Compare that to my other posts image and you can see the obvious fault in the book. Im just trying to save other people the hassle that we went through.
24
Rusty said on April 13th, 2016
These crags are all choss and full of snakes any way. Everyone should just go climb at Muir
25
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2016
Weren't you confused when it said turn on "Fixer" and you turned on "cave run"? Uhhhhhhh..... Sure your mom lets you out in the woods by yourself?
26
fosterdi said on April 14th, 2016
well the guide book labeled the roads wrong, which is my point. I followed the book, and it was wrong. that's that. I guess I should've followed google maps, but I don't always get service down there
27
fosterdi said on April 14th, 2016
I don't understand what there is to argue about, the guidebook labeled the roads wrong, that's just a fact. Maybe you're salty cause you wrote the book or something lol.
28
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2016
I don't care I am just so confused as to how you turned onto a road labeled "Cave Run" when both the written directions AND the map say the road is called "Fixer"???? That would be your first clue you were in the wrong spot...
29
fosterdi said on April 14th, 2016
you're confused as to what road i turned onto. i turned onto fixer road according to the book's map. but in reality that is not fixer road, but cave fork run. the real fixer road runs off the map to the north (pg 152 if you own the guidebook). If you turn onto fixer road according to the books map you are wrong.
30
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2016
Right.... but there are street signs on both Fixer and Cave run. So when you turned onto Cave run there was a sign right there staring you right in the face that said "Cave Run Road". take your face out of the book and look around next time.
31
fosterdi said on April 14th, 2016
there actually isn't a sign for cave fork road, but whatever. just trying to help people know not to go where the map says, and to follow the street sign for fixer instead
32
JohnnyKy said on August 27th, 2016
Last couple times i was at this wall there where snakes leaving in the tree stump in front of supafly.... Super dangerous because it looks like a great place to sit
33
cpliley said on December 1st, 2017
Did anybody happen to find a pair of velcro Anasazis near Blue Eyed Honky Jesus? If so, please email me at [email protected] I would love to get them back. I'll happily buy you a 6 pack for your troubles!
34
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2017
anticline has em. check forum
35
cpliley said on December 1st, 2017
Sick!! Thank you!
36
Anonymous said on April 12th, 2019
Hey lost our RRG South guide book. It’s one of the older ones.... has an organic climbing sticker on it and we have written some notes inside next to routes we have done. Please reach out if you saw it... we lost it on 4/31 Sunday I believe. There was another group there who might have picked it up. Email [email protected]
37
fosterdi said on April 12th, 2019
Ah, losing your guidebook in the future. I assume you mean sunday 3/31?
38
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2019
@fosterdi: YES! Please tell me you have it or know where it is? Email me at [email protected]