The Dark Side
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.
The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.
The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.
Rules of the PMRP and MFRP
Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:- Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
- All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
- Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
- Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
- No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
- No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
- Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
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Directions to The Dark Side
From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11. You will pass Roadside and Torrent on the way. Turn right on Fixer Rd and make your first left. Take that road for 3.5 miles (making sure not to turn left where the road seems to want to take you) until you see a black oil tank on your left with a face painted on it. Make a right at the oil tank and then take the second right. Drive down a hill and park just to the right of a steep road that branches left. The main parking area is located here near the kiosk for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve. From the parking area, walk a few feet past the kiosk to locate the trail marker. Follow the trail down and across a small bridge then along a dirt road for a few hundred yards until it heads off into the woods. Stay on the trail until it branches off to the right. You will see signs pointing the direction to the Solar Collector and The Darkside. Taking a right and heading uphill will take you to the Solar Collector. If you continue straight on the trail, it will take you to The Darkside.
Wall Sun: Late afternoon
| Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | User Stars | Length | Picture |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
0
1 |
-1 | Catholics' Traverse | Trad | 11 5.8 |
|
2.00 (1) | 90 90ft | 0 |
|
1
2 |
-1 | The Departure | Sport | 33 5.12 |
|
4.00 (1) | 80 80ft | 1 |
|
2
3 |
-1 | Dagobah | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
3.14 (14) | 80 80ft | 1 |
|
3
4 |
-1 | Admiral Ackbar | Trad | 11 5.8 |
|
2.00 (1) | 60 60ft | 0 |
|
4
5 |
-1 | It's a Trap! | Mixed | 20 5.10c |
|
4.50 (6) | 80 80ft | 1 |
|
5
6 |
-1 | Wookie Love Nest | Sport | 34 5.12c |
|
5.00 (5) | 80 80ft | 1 |
|
6
7 |
-1 | Stormtrooper | Trad | 17 5.10a |
|
4.00 (3) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
7
8 |
-1 | Evil Emperor | Sport | 38 5.13a |
|
5.00 (5) | 90 90ft | 1 |
|
8
9 |
-1 | Redneck Jedi | Mixed | 27 5.11c |
|
3.00 (3) | 85 85ft | 1 |
|
9
10 |
-1 | Young Jedi | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
2.68 (22) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
10
11 |
-1 | Grippy Green | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
4.42 (24) | 90 90ft | 0 |
|
11
11a |
-1 | Count Dooku | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
4.18 (17) | 85 85ft | 1 |
|
12
12 |
-1 | Small Fry | Sport | 14 5.9 |
|
3.08 (77) | 40 40ft | 0 |
|
13
13 |
-1 | Padawan | Sport | 17 5.10a |
|
2.79 (70) | 40 40ft | 1 |
|
14
14 |
-1 | Techulicous | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
3.29 (14) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
15
15 |
-1 | Mama Benson | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
3.53 (32) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
16
16 |
-1 | Shanghai | Sport | 35 5.12d |
|
4.50 (30) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
17
17 |
-1 | Big Burley | Sport | 39 5.13b |
|
3.83 (6) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
18
18 |
-1 | American Dream | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
4.30 (37) | 65 65ft | 1 |
|
19
19 |
-1 | The Death Star | Sport | 46 5.14b |
|
70 70ft | 0 | |
|
20
20 |
-1 | The Return of Darth Moll | Sport | 39 5.13b |
|
4.89 (18) | 65 65ft | 1 |
|
21
21 |
-1 | Jedi Mind Trick | Sport | 39 5.13b |
|
75 75ft | 0 | |
|
22
22 |
-1 | The Force | Sport | 38 5.13a |
|
4.90 (31) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
23
23 |
-1 | Mind Meld | Sport | 35 5.12d |
|
4.50 (20) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
24
24 |
-1 | Elephant Man | Sport | 39 5.13b |
|
4.93 (15) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
25
25 |
-1 | Tuskan Raider | Sport | 35 5.12d |
|
4.28 (29) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
26
26 |
-1 | Straight Outta Locash | Sport | 38 5.13a |
|
4.00 (2) | 0 0ft | 0 |
|
27
27 |
-1 | Straight Outta Campton | Sport | 39 5.13b |
|
4.80 (10) | 75 75ft | 0 |
|
28
28 |
-1 | Swingline | Sport | 42 5.13d |
|
5.00 (8) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
29
29 |
-1 | Non starter | Sport | 39 5.13b |
|
3.00 (1) | 75 75ft | 1 |
|
30
29a |
-1 | Phantom Menace | Sport | 35 5.12d |
|
3.67 (3) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
31
30 |
-1 | Barn Dance | Sport | 21 5.10d |
|
3.17 (18) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
32
31 |
-1 | Praestantissimum | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
4.60 (5) | 85 85ft | 1 |
Please select a grade
| Climber | Lead | Attempts | Date | PM Climber |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Climber | Date Projected | PM |
|---|---|---|
Whoa.. you're green behind the ears!
How about taking a quick tour or getting up to speed with the Spray Wizard?
Thanks but don't I'll be alright. (all gumbies' famous last words)
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