The Dark Side

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.12 3 2 28 33
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Directions to The Dark Side

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
From the Junior Williamson Rest Area, drive south (toward Miguel's) on KY 11. You will pass Roadside and Torrent on the way. Turn right on Fixer Rd and make your first left. Take that road for 3.5 miles (making sure not to turn left where the road seems to want to take you) until you see a black oil tank on your left with a face painted on it. Make a right at the oil tank and then take the second right. Drive down a hill and park just to the right of a steep road that branches left. The main parking area is located here near the kiosk for the Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve. From the parking area, walk a few feet past the kiosk to locate the trail marker. Follow the trail down and across a small bridge then along a dirt road for a few hundred yards until it heads off into the woods. Stay on the trail until it branches off to the right. You will see signs pointing the direction to the Solar Collector and The Darkside. Taking a right and heading uphill will take you to the Solar Collector. If you continue straight on the trail, it will take you to The Darkside.

Wall Sun: Late afternoon



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Catholics' Traverse Trad 5.8
 
90  
As the approach trail meets the cliff it forks left. Follow this trail for several hundred feet, passing several bolted routes, and pass beneath a low overhang after a slight downhill. As you round the corner and look right you will see an impressive chunk of leaning rock hosting The Departure and Dagobah. This is the chimney to the left. The FA party said he would never do it again, so let that be a hint. Steepness:

2

The Departure Sport 5.12
 
80
The left line on the leaning pillar right of Catholics Traverse. Tough sloping boulder problems with difficult clips will have you struggling more than you ever have on a 12c. Best attempted in frigid temps for maximum friction. Steepness:

3

Dagobah Sport 5.12a
 
80
Just right of The Departure. Begin with four bolts of steep underclings and sloping pinches that lead to a ledge so big you’ll think you climbed back to the ground. From the ledge choose your path, which includes either five bolts of crusty jugs or five bolts of forced but more enjoyable steep climbing Steepness:
Tags
steep-3 : slopey-1 : fun-2 : long-3 : arete-1 : beautiful-2 : exposed-2 : juggy-3

4

Admiral Ackbar Trad 5.8
 
60  
Climb the left dihedral then hand-traverse out left to a tree on the ledge (before things get steep) to descend. If things got steep and then there were anchors, congratulations! You just did It's a Trap! Steepness:

5

It's a Trap! Mixed 5.10c
 
80
About 200 feet right from Dagobah and 150 feet left of where the approach trail forks left is a blocky section of wall which splits from slab to steep at midheight. This worthy trad line begins on the left side of the wall and takes on the steep crack system. Begin with the dihedral then launch into steep climbing with decent protection and a single bolt. There may be anchors before the steep climbing begins, which makes for a decent 5.8" Steepness:
Tags
adventerous-1 : hands-1 : dihedral-1

6

Wookie Love Nest Sport 5.12c
 
80
Who says you can't have your slab and steep rock too? Take on the demanding slab just left of the corner surpassing a tough move to pull the ocean wave at the third bolt. Put more time in on the slab then shift gears to enjoy the more familiar kick-backed steepness to the chains. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-4 : vertical-3 : technical-5 : shady-2

7

Stormtrooper Trad 5.10a
 
60
Just right of Wookie Love Nest on the right side of the blocky wall is this thin crack system. Climb it and take the small gear along for the ride." Steepness:

8

Evil Emperor Sport 5.13a
 
90
25 feet left of Redneck Jedi is slightly overhanging golden face marked by a hueco 25 feet up. Excellent technical face climbing that gets harder the higher you get. Steepness:
Tags
classic-2 : stout-2

9

Redneck Jedi Mixed 5.11c
 
85
30 feet left of Yound Jedi, this line follows the obvious right leaning crack. Start on large holds that quickly lead you into a hand crack. Use it and crimps to get you to a small perch halfway up the route. When the crack disappears, microcrimp and smear your way till it opens again. Steepness:

10

Young Jedi Sport 5.11b
 
60
As you hike the trail toward the main wall head left about 100 feet when you first reach rock to locate this slabby line. Begins on a boulder just right of a mixed dihedral. Steepness:

11

Grippy Green Sport 5.12a
 
90  
As you near the wall from the approach trail,head right and this slab route is the first route on the wall. Boulder up a flake for a few bolts then continue up the slab to a break. Climb steeper rock past a bolt to the anchors. Steepness:

11a

Count Dooku Sport 5.11c
 
85
Sustained slab and face with a reachy crux, right of Grippy Green. Steepness:

12

Small Fry Sport 5.9
 
40  
This is the 2nd route on the wall just right of fat whacker, on the short sub butress before the main Dark Side. Steepness:

13

Padawan Sport 5.10a
 
40
20 feet right of "Small Fry" is this slightly overhanging plated face. The route still needs to be cleaned so beware since it may have some dirty and/or friable sections. Steepness:

14

Techulicous Sport 5.12a
 
50  
This route is directly above small fry but approached by walking around the small butress and walking up the tree stair to the left of the main dark side. Steepness:

15

Mama Benson Sport 5.12a
 
50
This is the first route on the main wall, highest up the ramp to the left. Steep pump fest to a hard few moves at the top. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-2

16

Shanghai Sport 5.12d
 
50  
This route begins on the same ramp as the previous routes and just right of Mama Benson. Power through pumpy holds to a series of long moves before the chains. Steepness:

17

Big Burley Sport 5.13b
 
60
This route lies just right of Shanghai and is the third route from the right on the ramp. Power through pumpy moves to a boulder problem finish. Steepness:

18

American Dream Sport 5.12b
 
65
This is the lowest route on the ramp before the main staging area. Most people clip the second bolt to start. Climb up and pull a tough move at the 2nd bolt then continue up through sustained and pumpy climbing to the anchors. Steepness:

19

The Death Star Sport 5.14b
 
70  
Darth Vader's project is complete! Start 15 feet left of Darth Moll. V11 climbing on thin pockets leads to a one move V8. Then proceed through 13b/c terrain on a circuitous path trying to avoid the good holds on the neighboring route. At the last resting jug go left and make a cool throw to a sloping jug or straight up and finish on Darth Moll, same grade either way. Steepness:

20

The Return of Darth Moll Sport 5.13b
 
65
This route shares the start of Jedi Mind Trick then angles left. It is the first route from the right that does not begin on the ramp. Steepness:
Tags
pockets-2 : fingers-2 : bouldery-8

21

Jedi Mind Trick Sport 5.13b
 
75  
This is the second route to the right of where the ramp begins and shares the first bolt of The Return of Darth Moll. Boulder up to a mono dyno then continue up easier ground to the anchors. Steepness:

22

The Force Sport 5.13a
 
75
This route begins a few feet right of Jedi Mind Trick and climbs through enduring moves to a more difficult finish. Steepness:
Tags
dynamic-1

23

Mind Meld Sport 5.12d
 
75
This route begins just right of The Force. Boulder up through spock fingered pockets, make a difficult third clip, then continue climbing. Hang on before the anchors. Steepness:

24

Elephant Man Sport 5.13b
 
75
Step a few feet right from Mind Meld to locate this beast. Start on slopey holds then crank hard boulder problems for the first five bolts. Relax, then hang on for the anchors. Steepness:

25

Tuskan Raider Sport 5.12d
 
75
Start on the same slopey holds as Elephant Man but traverse right on heel hooks to a good rest. Take a breather then fire up to a difficult boulder problem right beneath a large hueco. Ponder ethics, then continue to the chains. Steepness:

26

Straight Outta Locash Sport 5.13a
 
0  
Begin by climbing Tuskan Raider then move right out of the large hueco to finish on Straight Outta Campton. Steepness:

27

Straight Outta Campton Sport 5.13b
 
75  
Begin by climbing Swingline then move left into the large hueco. Steepness:

28

Swingline Sport 5.13d
 
75
This line has become the most sought after 13d in the Red. Same start as Straight Outta Campton but breaks right. Begins with 5.13a climbing to a very difficult boulder problem. Continue up the sustained face to the chains. Steepness:

29

Non starter Sport 5.13b
 
75
This is the route furthest on the right. A0 to the first bolt then crank through to the anchors. Steepness:

29a

Phantom Menace Sport 5.12d
 
60
Climb the cheater stone tower right of non-starter to reach the starting holds. Pull on and battle your way up the large slopey rail feature. Steepness:

30

Barn Dance Sport 5.10d
 
60
Right most route at dark side. 200 feet right of nonstarter. Fun varied climbing on awesome rock formations. Steepness:

31

Praestantissimum Sport 5.12a
 
85
Conquer a short powerful boulder problem at the start to gain the comfort of several large holds. Get your head on straight then move onto the slabby top, passing a committing crux along the way. End in a beautiful half-sunken hueco. Steepness:

Comments

1
Anonymous said on January 26th, 2004
why tuskan with a 'k' ??? is it not tusCan. awesome route though
2
SCIN said on May 9th, 2004
I don't know. I'm not a Star Wars geek.
3
gneiss said on February 9th, 2005
I think is is because tuskan is spelled with a 'k', just a guess
4
Wes said on June 25th, 2006
Bring a couple extra layers of skin, some steel tendons, and some serious bouldering power if you climb at this wall. That is the price of admision for some of the best steep, powerfull pocket pulling in the US.
5
Horatio Felacio said on October 9th, 2007
the price of admission for some, is being railed from behind, bent over the stump. just to let everyone know about an alternate way in.
6
Josephine said on October 15th, 2007
for those of us 5.easy climbers the 2 easy routes are worth the hike.
7
ashtray said on October 15th, 2007
What Josie says is not true! That place sucks so please don't hike up there!
8
Lander said on November 26th, 2007
American Dream? What's that got to do with Star Wars? Grippy Green?? WTF???
9
Josephine said on November 27th, 2007
now wait just a sec. you're the FA. you can't turn around years later and complain that the name you selected doesn't fit the "theme" of the wall! :-P
10
Lander said on November 27th, 2007
Oh yeah? Sez who?
11
Anonymous said on November 9th, 2008
12
Anonymous said on April 11th, 2013
Does anyone have information on the three climbs left of The Departure?
13
whoneedsfeet said on April 11th, 2013
Those little guys? Don't worry about those little guys.
14
kafish2 said on April 11th, 2013
In true spirit of the darkside... those are not the climbs you are looking for. but the are really good.
15
Willy said on April 11th, 2013
I believe that area is called the short side
16
Anonymous said on April 12th, 2013
Never heard of the short side. The area looks good, got any other info on the place?
17
Anonymous said on April 12th, 2013
That's where people go to poop.
18
Anonymous said on November 15th, 2013
I have been there this year. it seems many peoples are hanging on bolts all the time long. they shout such things as "this is sick", "totally brutal" and yet cannot climb the routes. I have seen a man kill a bat and another man throw a bird from the cliff. I think this is not good behaviour, peoples should respect the wildness, the creatures have been there first and the climbers must respect this. there are some good routes here, spoiled by these people's and their attitudes. it seems a shame to me as many Americans are very friendly. the rock is good and if it is quiet I think you will enjoy thus place
19
Anonymous said on September 14th, 2015
What's the sun/shade situation between Admiral Ackbar and Evil Emperor?
20
dustonian said on September 14th, 2015
More or less shade all day, a little morning sun until maybe 11 or so