Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 12 1 - 14
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Directions to Half Moon

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Fallout Trad 5.10a
 
60
This is the first route encountered at the path at the base of the rock. Look for a radiant overhanging left-facing dihedral on the south side. Dyno up the thin crack. Heave into a slot then stem to the top. Steepness:

2

Ellen's Descent Trad 4th
 
70
Hike around to the west face of Half Moon. Locate a steep gully, which requires a few chimney moves. Steepness:

3

Initiation Trad 5.3
 
25  
Somewhere on the west end of the rock is this short crack. Steepness:

4

Eclipse Toprope 5.9
 
90
Walk left from the previous routes to the north side of the cliff which faces Chimney Top. The first climb you meet is an overhanging and left-facing dihedral. Climb the crack to its end, traverse right to easier face, and top out. Steepness:

5

Honeymoon Trad 5.10a
 
80
Left of Eclipse and 25 feet right of Full Moon is a crack system. Climb up easy rock to a dihedral which leads to a small roof. Move left to an arete, protect using small horizontals, then face climb up and right to a ledge. Traverse left to join the last pitch of Full Moon. Steepness:

6

Waning Moon Trad 5.9+
 
30  
A variation of the second pitch of Full Moon, this route surmounts the overhang 10 feet right of the original line. Steepness:

7

Full Moon Trad 5.7
 
100
On the north side of the rock is rectangular buttress. This route follows the dihedral on the western (right) side of the buttress. Layback a wide crack to a ledge and belay. Layback or jam up to another ledge and belay. Chimney up. Steepness:

8

Meteor Fall Trad 5.9-
 
40
Climb the handcrack 15 feet left of Full Moon, then traverse right to the first belay of Full Moon. Steepness:

9

Meteor Maker Mixed 5.10a
 
120
Begin a few feet left of Meteor Fall. Ease up and left around the arete, then work up a face to a ledge. Surge over a bulge near an old and dubious bolt to a stance under an overhang. Blast over this to another ledge, step left, then summit or plummet! Steepness:
Tags
steep-1 : adventerous-1 : classic-1 : pockets-1 : scary-1 : runout-1

10

Rockhouse Trad 5.4
 
75
Around the next corner of the buttress, left of the previous route, is a crack system broken up by a large ledge. Climb the easy crack to the ledge, then scramble up a gully on the east side of the buttress. Steepness:

11

Ron's Garden Trad 5.6
 
50  
This climb begins on the ledge above the first pitch of Rockhouse. Ascend the wide crack on the wall to the right. After reaching a ledge with a tree, chimney to the top. Steepness:

12

Scared Shitless Trad 5.6
 
60
Locate the first crack left of Rockhouse. Climb the first pitch of Rockhouse, then scramble up to the base of the crack. Jam the crack to its end, traverse right on the face to a sloping ledge, then gently walk left up a ramp through some shrubs to the top. Steepness:

13

It Ain't Over Yet Trad 5.8+
 
60  
The next crack left of Scared Shitless begins as a thin crack and face problem. The remainder of the climb is a wide handcrack with some curious rock extrusions near the top. Steepness:

14

Bob's Moon Trad 5.10b
 
50
The next crack left of It Ain't Over Yet begins as a difficult reach or lunge over a roof. The rest of the climb is a rattly fist crack. Steepness:

Comments

1
WDW4 said on June 25th, 2013
The approach: Park on the side of Chimney Top Road (on the left if you are coming from 715), across from a Port-a-John and some campsites back in the trees. The parking site is about 1/4 mile from the parking lot. Hike out the level trail until you are on the rocky, sandy narrow spot on the top of the ridge. There, look for a trail downhill on your left (South) - you'll know it is the correct trail if it passes the arches themselves in the first few yards. Continue down and left, following the fairly well defined trail, which meets the wall a little before "Full Moon".