The Arena - CLOSED
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.
The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.
The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.
Rules of the PMRP and MFRP
Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:- Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
- All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
- Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
- Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
- No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
- No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
- Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
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Directions to The Arena - CLOSED
Drive about 14 miles south on KY 11 (toward Miguel's) from the Junior Williamson Rest Area toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve, and at the crest of the hill, take a sharp right on Bald Rock Road (gravel road). There is a sign for a church here. The road will immediately fork left near a trailer. Take this left fork. Follow the gravel road 1.65 miles to a set of 3 entranceways on the right (about 0.1 miles past a road leading uphill to the right just past Bob Marley Crag). Take the second of the 3 entranceways. This is the last road you can take off to the right. If you were to pass this road you will come to a dead-end/turnaround in about 200 yards. Turn up the road and stay on it until you come to a fork in the road. Take the left fork and head up a steep hill. At the top of the hill, the road will curve sharply to the left. Stay on the road, passing a pond on your left, and continue up another steep hill. Continue past the road to Oil Crack Rock and stay on the same road. Locate a pulloff on your left which marks the first parking area. It is best to park here if you're headed for the 5.10 wall (routes #1-#4). If you're headed for the 5.11 wall (routes #16-#19) you may want to continue on the road a bit. Eventually you will come to a sharp left turn and a small steep hill. At the top of this hill and to the right is the second parking area for The Arena.
Wall Sun: All day
{show overview map}
| Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | User Stars | Length | Picture |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
0
1 |
-1 | Big in Japan | Sport | 11 5.8 |
|
3.29 (24) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
1
2 |
-1 | Stairway to Freebird | Sport | 18 5.10b |
|
3.54 (13) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
2
3 |
-1 | Rebel Yell | Sport | 20 5.10c |
|
3.08 (12) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
3
4 |
-1 | Redneck Ways | Sport | 17 5.10a |
|
3.47 (19) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
4
5 |
-1 | Chocolate Waterfall | Sport | 17 5.10a |
|
3.94 (17) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
5
6 |
-1 | Hat Trick | Sport | 14 5.9 |
|
3.36 (14) | 45 45ft | 1 |
|
6
6a |
-1 | Apple Pie and Chevrolet | Trad | 5 5.5 |
|
2.50 (2) | 100 100ft | 0 |
|
7
7 |
-1 | Exacta | Sport | 11 5.8 |
|
2.61 (18) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
8
8 |
-1 | Edge of Your Seat | Sport | 17 5.10a |
|
4.25 (20) | 55 55ft | 1 |
|
9
9 |
-1 | Split Decision | Trad | 14 5.9 |
|
3.82 (11) | 55 55ft | 1 |
|
10
9a |
-1 | Baseball and Hotdogs | Trad | 10 5.8- |
|
3.00 (1) | 85 85ft | 0 |
|
11
10 |
-1 | Main Event | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
3.33 (3) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
12
11 |
-1 | Plan 9 | Sport | 17 5.10a |
|
2.40 (5) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
13
12 |
-1 | Karmic Disruption | Sport | 28 5.11d |
|
4.00 (1) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
14
13 |
-1 | Technical Foul | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
4.60 (10) | 80 80ft | 0 |
|
15
14 |
-1 | Overtime | Sport | 34 5.12c |
|
4.67 (3) | 80 80ft | 0 |
|
16
15 |
-1 | Sudden Death | Sport | 35 5.12d |
|
4.33 (3) | 100 100ft | 0 |
|
17
15a |
-1 | Red Card | Trad | 14 5.9 |
|
80 80ft | 0 | |
|
18
15b |
-1 | Tip Off | Sport | 32 5.12b |
|
4.00 (1) | 50 50ft | 0 |
|
19
16 |
-1 | Stage Fright | Sport | 31 5.12a |
|
2.50 (4) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
20
17 |
-1 | Dope Show | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
3.50 (10) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
21
18 |
-1 | Standing Ovation | Sport | 21 5.10d |
|
4.33 (21) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
22
19 |
-1 | Opening Act | Sport | 21 5.10d |
|
4.43 (21) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
23
20 |
-1 | Encore | Sport | 24 5.11a |
|
4.10 (20) | 70 70ft | 0 |
|
24
21 |
-1 | Take a Bow | Sport | 20 5.10c |
|
3.36 (22) | 60 60ft | 0 |
|
25
22 |
-1 | De-Spare | Sport | 11 5.8 |
|
2.60 (20) | 40 40ft | 0 |
|
26
23 |
-1 | Two Pitcher | Trad | 18 5.10b |
|
90 90ft | 0 | |
|
27
24 |
-1 | Mystikal | Sport | 36 5.12+ |
|
80 80ft | 0 | |
|
28
25 |
-1 | Seeing Red Again | Trad | 28 5.11d |
|
0 0ft | 0 | |
|
29
26 |
-1 | Tux | Sport | 36 5.12+ |
|
80 80ft | 0 | |
|
30
27 |
-1 | The Audition | Trad | 14 5.9 |
|
3.60 (5) | 60 60ft | 1 |
|
31
27a |
-1 | Warriorhood | Trad | 18 5.10b |
|
2.75 (4) | 60 60ft | 0 |
|
32
28 |
-1 | Cold Stone | Sport | 29 5.11+ |
|
0 0ft | 1 | |
|
33
29 |
-1 | Curtain Call | Sport | 20 5.10c |
|
3.50 (4) | 70 70ft | 1 |
|
34
30 |
-1 | Through the Turnstile | Trad | 11 5.8 |
|
4.00 (5) | 65 65ft | 1 |
|
35
31 |
-1 | Penalty Box | Sport | 6 5.6 |
|
2.80 (10) | 55 55ft | 0 |
|
36
32 |
-1 | Power Play | Sport | 38 5.13a |
|
5.00 (2) | 0 0ft | 0 |
|
37
33 |
-1 | Life's a Beech | Trad | 8 5.7 |
|
1.33 (3) | 0 0ft | 0 |
|
38
6b |
-1 | All This Useless Beauty | Trad | 18 5.10b |
|
2.50 (2) | 110 110ft | 0 |
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