Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 5 - - 5
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Directions to Wolfpen

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the parking lot of the Junior Williamson Rest Area in Slade, turn left (north) on KY 11, drive 0.1 miles under the Mountain Parkway overpass to a "T" intersection with KY 15. Turn left (east) and continue for 1.5 miles, then turn right (north) on KY 77. This highway is also known as "Nada Tunnel Road", and you may see a street sign so designated at this intersection. Drive 4.4 miles through the tiny town of Nada, through the tunnel, and over the steel bridge (stay right after you cross the steel bridge) to the intersection with KY 715. KY 77 curves left near an old barn while KY 715 continues straight. Stay on KY 715 (don't take the curve to the left) for about 1.3 miles from the intersection. Cross a large bridge and park on your left after the bridge. If you look upstream of Wolfpen Creek, you can see the striking orange wall of Wolfpen Wall. There are two ways to approach the wall. The first approach involves more bushwhacking but is a better way to get to Wishbone. Hike upstream towards Wolfpen Wall then angle up right to a ridge. Walk left along the ridge through some large boulders to the base of Wolfpen Wall. Another way to approach the wall involves hiking up Wolfpen Creek for about 15 minutes until you cross a large fallen tree. Look for a pile of rocks on your right then hike uphill to the wall.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Wishbone Trad 5.10c
 
70  
As you approach the wall using the first method listed, you will see a bombay chimney with a roof. Solo up a short flake to get to the ledge which this route starts from. Climb up to the roof then stem out to the lip. Climb down a bit to get around the chockstone then pull the lip. Continue climbing to the ledge. Steepness:

2

Where's Carmen Trad 5.8
 
60  
Use the second approach described in the directions to get to this route or walk left along the wall from Wishbone for quite a ways. This route ascends a handcrack in a right-facing dihedral. Steepness:

3

Time Avenger Trad 5.9
 
60  
This route begins left and around the corner of Where's Carmen. Look for a roof close to the ground. Climb over the roof and continue on the face above. Steepness:

4

The Onyx Trad 5.10b
 
70
Walk left from Time Avenger and around a corner to a striking fingercrack. Climb the fingercrack then tackle the roof above. Steepness:

5

The Conditioner Trad 5.8
 
70  
Walk 50 feet left of The Onyx to a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral to an arching crack. Finish on a ledge with a tree. Steepness:

Comments

1
Danny said on October 26th, 2003
If you just want to get to all the routes except Wishbone, just follow the path that criss-crosses the creek. A wall will be up the hill on your right until it curves around to be in the direction you are hiking. This is the section that has The Onyx etc. Before the wall curves around to the left there is a huge impressive "cave" that is worth checking out. There is a break in the wall and stream gully between this cave and The Onyx wall. The hike along the cliff from Wishbone to The Onyx is a serious bushwacker.
2
Anonymous said on January 4th, 2005
The Window- 37.8290N, 83.6269W The Onyx- 37.8341N, 83.6292W