Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 - - 7 7
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Directions to The Unlode

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Drive about 14 miles south on KY 11 (toward Miguel's) from the Junior Williamson Rest Area toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve take a sharp right on an unmarked gravel road. Follow the gravel road 0.8 miles straight through an intersection, past some houses with dogs, down a steep hill, alongside a small cliff on your left, to a clearing at the bottom. Park on the right in the grassy patch or in a smaller gravel pulloff a little further. This is the Motherlode parking area. Hike back uphill on the gravel road from the parking area to locate a logging road on your left. Walk down this road for a few hundred feet until you see a small cliff on your right. This is The Unlode.

Wall Sun: Unknown



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

0

Unwarranted Sport 5.11c
 
40  
Farthest right route at the crag. Steepness:

1

Undesirable Sport 5.11c
 
45  
This bolted route begins just right of a large tree. Climb overhanging rock to the anchors. Short but pumpy. Steepness:

2

Unworthy Sport 5.11a
 
45  
This is the next route left of Undesirable. Climb steep rock on larger holds to the anchors. Steepness:

3

Unbridled Sport 5.10c
 
55
Walk left from Unworthy for about 200 feet to a more vertical face to locate this route. Steepness:

4

Unfamilia Sport 5.10c
 
55
Stick clip the first bolt, make a long move or crimp your way through the first crux, surf your way through slopey jugs to the top, and find the right holds for the anchor. Steepness:

4a

Undoubtedly, Still Better than Trad Sport 5.9+
 
50
Climb a slightly overhanging face on large pockets. Sandy holds on this route and its neighbors add to the pump factor. Maybe it will clean up with traffic, then again maybe it won't. But remember, at least you're not climbing trad. Steepness:

5

Unconditional Sport 5.10a
 
55
Start off with a tricky move to get off the deck and around the corner, navigate your way through good holds up to a runnel at the last bolt. Finagle your way inside, through, and up the runnel to snag the chains. Steepness:

Comments

1
haas said on March 24th, 2005
all three stay dry in light rain, and the two 11s probably stay dry in downpour
2
Saxman said on March 29th, 2012
Cleaned the trail out. Easy hike now. Routes are worth doing, especially the 2 11s. Room for a couple of more routes to the left.
3
inwardj said on April 7th, 2019
three new routes open on the far left side. great options for warmups if your parking at the top of the lode hill, walk halfway down the lode hill and take a hard right onto logging road, follow this trail to the wall just below the lode hill.