Shady Grove

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.11 - - 16 16
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Directions to Shady Grove

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Drive about 14 miles south on KY 11 (toward Miguel's) from the Junior Williamson Rest Area toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve take a sharp right on an unmarked gravel road. Follow the gravel road 0.8 miles straight through an intersection, past some houses with dogs, down a steep hill, alongside a small cliff on your left, to a clearing at the bottom. Park on your right in the Motherlode parking area or continue by turning right on the first gravel road .3 miles past the Motherlode parking area. There is a Sore Heel Parking, sign located at the turn off pointing the way. Follow the gravel road up the hill past a row of large bright blue storage tanks, make a sharp right-hand turn (.2 mile after turn off), follow the main gravel road for another mile before following the road down a short hill to the new parking area at the bottom of the hill on the right. Look for new trailhead signs pointing to the climbing areas along a (freshly cleared) dirt road leading up a hill from the parking area The first route encountered is Citizen's Arete.

Wall Sun: Unknown

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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Citizen's Arete Sport 5.11b
 
60
This route begins just right of the obvious arete on the left side of the wall. It is the first route encountered on the wall. Climb the face until you run out of holds then make a big move left to the arete. Make another big move then ride the arete to the anchors. Steepness:

2

Girls Gone Wild...WOO! Sport 5.10d
 
60
Step five feet right from Citizen's Arete to locate this route. Grab a shelf and pull up and through a bulge. Continue up the face staying just right of a flake. Steepness:

3

Crucify Me Sport 5.11c
 
70
Step 10 feet right from Girls Gone Wild and look for a high first bolt. Climb up the steep face making use of jugs and hidden pockets along the way. Tackle the crux toward the top and finish off on jugs to the anchors. Steepness:

4

Who Knows? Sport 5.11d
 
70
This route is located 20 feet right of Crucify Me. Climb steep rock for two bolts to gain a large ledge. Continue up past a fat flake to another ledge then up steeper rock to the anchors. Steepness:

5

Which is Which? Sport 5.11c
 
70
Step 10 feet right of Who Knows. Crank through a steep start for a few bolts to a hand ledge. Continue up a more vertical face to the overhanging headwall. Conquer the headwall and clip the chains. Steepness:

6

Who is Who? Sport 5.11d
 
70
Start 5 feet right of Which is Which? on the same steep section of the wall. Crank through 4 bolts of pocket pulling to gain a vertical section. Climb past the vertical section then deal with steepening rock to the anchors. Steepness:

7

Coming out Party Sport 5.11d
 
75
Walk 25 feet right of Who is Who? just past an overhanging crack in a dihedral. Boulder out extremely steep rock to gain a large ledge. Climb the overhanging face past a few pods along the way. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : adventerous-1 : pockets-1 : confusing-1 : juggy-1

8

Far From God Sport 5.12b
 
75
Power out the start of Coming Out Party to gain a ledge. Then veer right and climb the sustained overhanging face to anchors. Steepness:

9

False Idol Sport 5.12b
 
90
Walk 30 feet right from Far From God to locate this route. Boulder out a steep, pocketed start to gain a ledge. Continue up the sustained overhanging face to the anchors. Steepness:

10

Irreverent C Sport 5.12c
 
90  
Just right of the previous route is a hueco 25 feet up. This route begins just left of the hueco and meets up with a water groove toward the top. Steepness:

11

Imagine There's No Heaven Sport 5.12b
 
90  
This route takes on the next line of bolts right of Irreverent C and flows through fun movement sandwiched by tough sections. Should clean up in time to meet its predicted 3 stars so give it some love and carry a brush. Steepness:

12

Taste the Rainbow Sport 5.13a
 
100
Walk right from the main Shady Grove wall to locate this extremely overhanging and long line in the next amphitheater. If Pile Driver leaves a bad taste in your mouth just taste the rainbow and you'll feel much better. It is recommended to stick clip the second bolt and leave the first bolt unclipped to lessen the rope drag. Steepness:
Tags
steep-2 : classic-1 : long-1

13

Shaved Squirrel Sport 5.10d
 
60
Up the steep hill from Listerine Girl is a flat spot with two climbs. This is the one on the left. Steepness:

13

Pile Driver Sport 5.12d
 
80
Put your beer goggles on for this one! Next line right of Taste the Rainbow. Climb through several epoxied jugs to the chains. Steepness:

14

Listerine Girl Sport 5.9
 
75
Just around the corner past the giant rock shelter is this line. Swish your way up a sequency section of pockets and edges into a dish. Climb up and onto the tongue feature and don’t spit off as you pull over the roof onto a well featured slab. Steepness:

16

Street Fight Sport 5.10a
 
65  
This rightmost climb shares the opening moves of Shaved Squirrel.Head up after the opening moves of Shaved Squirrel, right up a ramp to some fine edging, sidepulls, and a well featured (and slightly run out) finale on easy terrain. Steepness:

Comments

1
Green3 said on September 30th, 2006
What's with the slab routes around the amphitheater of Shady Grove, are they going into this guide? I think they are over a year old now.
2
JB said on October 2nd, 2006
bolted by Ron Snider. 5.9 at the bottom of the hill, then at the top of the hill a 5.10d on the left and a 5.10a on the right. All fun!
3
SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Parking Area GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.65139, Longitude 83.71667
4
gregkerzhner said on May 23rd, 2007
There is a climb to the right of the 12c's. It is further around the horseshoe, off by itself with fixed draws on it. Anyone knows what it is?
5
Anonymous said on May 31st, 2007
it is a closed project to the right of the 12c's
6
TVA said on July 17th, 2007
"it is a closed project " is it still a closed project? i was there last month and didn't see any red tape.
7
pigsteak said on May 18th, 2009
when do the old ropes get pulled that have been hanging here for years? even if someone is still bolting, there is no way I'd jug that old rope. does anyone care of I pull it down? it is an eyesore.
8
pigsteak said on May 18th, 2009
the developer is still working on this line. ignore my query on pulling the rope.
9
heavyc said on June 27th, 2009
Piggy was your last post about Imagine there is no Heaven or the really nice looking line between it and Pile Driver which now has no rope on it but a small piece of blue webbing on the last hanger?
10
heavyc said on June 27th, 2009
whoops I meant the blue webbing was on the first hanger
11
bentley said on August 19th, 2009
I bolted it late spring and are still working out the line. It is a closed project with no name right now.
12
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2009
remarkable how the size of this wall is cloaked by the forest, beautiful.
13
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2009
I finished up the thing left of Pile Driver this past weekend. I am calling it Taste The Rainbow. I think it is "some flavor of light 5.13". Google Taste The Rainbow, you will know the picture that inspired the name!
14
bentley said on November 3rd, 2009
I finished up the thing left of Pile Driver this past weekend. I am calling it Taste The Rainbow. I think it is "some flavor of light 5.13". Google Taste The Rainbow, you will know the picture that inspired the name!