The Playground
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve and The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve
The Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve (PMRP) is a 750-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The PMRP contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.6 to 5.14c with potential for hundreds more. This is the largest direct land acquisition ever made by climbers and permanently secures access to a significant amount of climbing in the Red.
The Miller Fork Recreational Preserve (MFRP) is a 309-acre region owned and maintained by the Red River Gorge Climbers' Coalition. The MFRP also contains over 400 sport and traditional rock climbs from 5.5 to 5.14+, with potential for still more.
The Red River Gorge Climbers' Coaltion is a nonprofit 501(c)3 organization dedicated to ensuring quality climbing opportunities for the recreating public by promosing responsible climbing. The historic PMRP and MFRP purchases represent the RRGCC's dedication to ensure quality climbing opportunities on public and private land. The purchase and operation of the PMRP and MFRP are made possible solely through private donations and volunteer efforts. Current yearly expenses including the property payment, legal fees, and maintenance are close to $30,000. All donations made in support of the RRGCC and its land are tax deductible. Volunteer contributions in the form of trail work or pro-bono professional services are also welcome. Please visit rrgcc.org for more information.
Rules of the PMRP and MFRP
Before climbing at the PMRP or MFRP you must sign a liability waiver, online at: https://www.smartwaiver.com/w/51c2134a209ee/web/. Other rules and guidelines for the Preserves are as follows:- Please climb responsible and follow Leave No Trace practices.
- All dogs must be leashed or under control of their owners.
- Stay off tagged projects and do not touch or use any project ropes, draws, or other gear.
- Stay on established trails and do not mark or damage tress or other vegetation. Approval by the RRGCC is required prior to the establishment of any new crags or trails.
- No hunting, trapping, digging for archaeological artifacts, or operation of motorized vehicles off established roads is permitted.
- No open fires are permitted due to the oil extraction activity in the area and the enormous threat of forest fire in a region of numerous oil wells would pose.
- Overnight camping (no long-term camping) is permitted as long as it is not in a climbing area, along a trail, or near any oil equipment. Please remove all refuse and bury human waste.
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Directions to The Playground
Drive 12.4 miles south on KY 11 from Miguel's toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498 and follow for 1.2 miles to Bald Fork Road. Take a sharp right onto Bald Fork Road and follow it as it curves left toward a house. Do not turn right at the first fork. After 0.3 miles the road turns to gravel and heads down a steep hill to a clearing at the bottom (0.8 miles from the beginning of Bald Fork Road). Park on your right in the Motherlode parking area or continue by turning right on the first gravel road .3 miles past the Motherlode parking area. There is a “Sore Heel Parking,” sign located at the turn off pointing the way. Follow the gravel road up the hill past a row of large bright blue storage tanks, make a sharp right-hand turn (.2 mile after turn off), follow the main gravel road for another ½ mile before following the road down a short hill to the new parking area at the bottom of the hill on the right. Look for new trailhead signs pointing to the climbing areas along a (freshly cleared) dirt road leading up a hill from the parking area The first route encountered on this wall is Red Rover.
Wall Sun: All day
{show overview map}
| Route | Spray | Name | Type | Grade | Quality | User Stars | Length | Picture |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
0
1 |
-1 | Red Rover | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
2.63 (30) | 0 0ft | 0 |
|
1
2 |
-1 | Steal the Bacon | Sport | 24 5.11a |
|
2.68 (44) | 65 65ft | 1 |
|
2
3 |
-1 | Chickenhawk | Trad | 21 5.10d |
|
2.17 (6) | 45 45ft | 1 |
|
3
4 |
-1 | Jungle Gym | Sport | 18 5.10b |
|
3.06 (86) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
4
5 |
-1 | Monkey Bars | Sport | 17 5.10a |
|
3.65 (143) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
5
6 |
-1 | Capture the Flag | Sport | 25 5.11b |
|
3.78 (81) | 50 50ft | 1 |
|
6
7 |
-1 | Crack the Whip | Sport | 28 5.11d |
|
3.74 (72) | 0 0ft | 1 |
|
7
8 |
-1 | Octopus Tag | Trad | 8 5.7 |
|
3.69 (48) | 0 0ft | 1 |
|
8
9 |
-1 | Balance Beam | Sport | 24 5.11a |
|
4.10 (82) | 65 65ft | 1 |
|
9
10 |
-1 | Teeter Totter | Sport | 27 5.11c |
|
4.26 (31) | 0 0ft | 1 |
|
10
11 |
-1 | Slide | Sport | 14 5.9 |
|
3.17 (86) | 65 65ft | 1 |
|
11
12 |
-1 | Tire Swing | Sport | 17 5.10a |
|
3.40 (73) | 0 0ft | 0 |
Comments
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