COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

The Far Side

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 - - 11 13

Directions to The Far Side

This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Follow directions to Solar Collector and park in the same area. If you are facing the RRGCC kiosk, The Far Side is directly uphill to your left. Avoid bushwhacking up the hill by walking back in the direction you drove in and head up the dirt road to your right. Follow the dirt road as it winds up the hill to the cliff then walk right until you reach an obvious notch in the rock formed by two closely spaced walls. The first route listed is on the left wall and ascends the striking arete.

Wall Sun: Unknown

Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality User Stars Length Picture


Dirty Sanchez Sport 5.12c
4.00  (1) 50ft


Gunsmoke Sport 5.11a


Subject to Change Sport 5.10d
3.06  (31) 40ft  


unfinished/closed project Toprope 5.12


Nameless Sport 5.10d
3.26  (34) 40ft  


digitalgia Sport 5.11c
3.10  (10) 50ft  


Papa Love Jugs Sport 5.11d
4.58  (43) 45ft


Second Nature Sport 5.13a
4.83  (6) 50ft


Quantum Narcissist Sport 5.13b
5.00  (1) 50ft




Nose Ring Sport 5.11


French Fighter Sport 5.11


ATM 5.11d
4.50  (4) 50ft


JR said on November 6th, 2007
What is going on with the routes to the right of Quantum Narcissist? Are they open?
JR said on November 13th, 2007
The route "labeled" ATM is great. Makes a great mate for Papa Love Jugs. Solid 11d's. Nice work Art and Joe?.
caribe said on November 27th, 2007
More like great work JOE and art. I worked the bolter support, sub-man on that one. It was hotter than hell last summer. I will try to find out who FA this thing. From what I am hearing about the line, I need to get back on it. The route was bolted on, well the entry below is from my journal -- ------- *2007_0610 Sunday: Went climbing with Joe from Bassett. We bolted a route at Farside. Neither of us sent anything, even the route we bolted. I need to return, put a red tag on it and declare it a closed project. ------- I never returned to put the red tag. The route was there for more than 4 months before someone got on it and FA'ed.
Jonathan said on April 29th, 2009
Yeah, Joe took me up there at the end of October 2007. I nabbed the 1st. Pretty Fun, but not typical Gorge climbing.
dbrayack said on November 18th, 2009
IF you continue through the notch, down the road - there's a PRETTY impressive little party spot there...couches - carpet the whole 9...
mike_anderson said on November 19th, 2009
Yeah, is that on PMRP or USFS? It's not clear where the boundary is. I ran into some folks camping there last weekend, it looked like they had a rough night since they were still asleep at noon.
schwagpad said on March 23rd, 2010
I toproped blake's unfinished project before there were anchors. Hard moves, and it seemed like it would be a bit of a squeeze job.
Dman said on September 19th, 2010
the campsite is bad ass
Willy said on March 3rd, 2013
Rednecks destroyed the awesome campsite. Couches were all burned, shotgun shells everywhere, empty whiskey bottles gone and everything else that was cool about that site. I was pretty bummed when I discovered it
Tomer Oren said on March 24th, 2015
What about the steep and tall wall that is filled huecos, it is on your right if you walk through the notch (with the arĂȘte, Dirty Sanchez, on your left) and down and right the road for less then a minute? Are there any restrictions on it? Looks sweet!
Anonymous said on March 24th, 2015
Forest service land