The Far Side

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.10 - - 10 12
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Directions to The Far Side

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Follow directions to Solar Collector and park in the same area. If you are facing the RRGCC kiosk, The Far Side is directly uphill to your left. Avoid bushwhacking up the hill by walking back in the direction you drove in and head up the dirt road to your right. Follow the dirt road as it winds up the hill to the cliff then walk right until you reach an obvious notch in the rock formed by two closely spaced walls. The first route listed is on the left wall and ascends the striking arete.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Dirty Sanchez Sport 5.12c
 
50
This route ascends the striking and featureless arete on the wall forming the left side of the notch. Pull over a small overhang to reach up to the bald arete. Continue up the arete until the bolts force you left onto the face. Move past a few troublesome bulges on the face to reach the anchors. Steepness:

2

Subject to Change Sport 5.10d
 
40  
Walk about 100 feet right from Gunsight Arete but do not hike down to the road. Remain in the middle of the hill to reach a short section of the left side of the right wall forming the notch. This route ascends the short face via small crimps and fingery underclings. Steepness:

3

unfinished/closed project Toprope 5.12
 
50  
5 Feet right of subject to change is a techy, face. Just anchors right now. Blakes project Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-1 : vertical-1 : technical-1

4

Nameless Sport 5.10d
 
40  
Step 20 feet right to the next line which begins behind a large tree. Climb past a crimpy start then continue up the face on slopey ribs and the occasional good pinch. Steepness:

5

digitalgia Sport 5.11c
 
50  
Move right from Nameless to the next route. Climb sharp crimps to a feature. Steepness:

6

Papa Love Jugs Sport 5.11d
 
45
Pure fun. Walk back down to the road and follow it for 100 feet to the right. Look for a north facing overhanging wall with a lightning bolt shaped feature. This route is the left most route on that section and follows a series of three huecos. Scramble up to an overhang to start. Steepness:

7

Second Nature Sport 5.13a
 
50
This classic line ascends the lightning bolt shaped feature just right of Papa Love Jugs. Make a big move to a good right hand jug then power past the obvious crux. Continue up the feature with zig-zagging sidepulls to an exciting finish. Steepness:

8

Quantum Narcissist Sport 5.13b
 
50
Just right of Second Nature is another difficult and technical line angling right as it follows the margin of a slanting arete. Steepness:

9

NAMBLA RAMBLA Sport 5.11
 
50  
First mystery route located 50 feet right of Quantum Narcissist. Thin face. Steepness:

10

Nose Ring Sport 5.11
 
60  
Second Far Side mystery route located 30 feet right of previous line. Thin face. Steepness:

11

French Fighter Sport 5.11
 
50  
Third Far Side mystery route located 20 feet right from previous line. Thin face. Steepness:

12

ATM 5.11d
 
50
This is the 4th line right of Quantum Narcissist on the vertical face. Begin with a big move to a good edge then continue up the crimpy face interspersed with a couple more big moves on small edges to the chains. Steepness:

Comments

1
JR said on November 6th, 2007
What is going on with the routes to the right of Quantum Narcissist? Are they open?
2
JR said on November 13th, 2007
The route "labeled" ATM is great. Makes a great mate for Papa Love Jugs. Solid 11d's. Nice work Art and Joe?.
3
caribe said on November 27th, 2007
More like great work JOE and art. I worked the bolter support, sub-man on that one. It was hotter than hell last summer. I will try to find out who FA this thing. From what I am hearing about the line, I need to get back on it. The route was bolted on, well the entry below is from my journal -- ------- *2007_0610 Sunday: Went climbing with Joe from Bassett. We bolted a route at Farside. Neither of us sent anything, even the route we bolted. I need to return, put a red tag on it and declare it a closed project. ------- I never returned to put the red tag. The route was there for more than 4 months before someone got on it and FA'ed.
4
Jonathan said on April 29th, 2009
Yeah, Joe took me up there at the end of October 2007. I nabbed the 1st. Pretty Fun, but not typical Gorge climbing.
5
dbrayack said on November 18th, 2009
IF you continue through the notch, down the road - there's a PRETTY impressive little party spot there...couches - carpet the whole 9...
6
mike_anderson said on November 19th, 2009
Yeah, is that on PMRP or USFS? It's not clear where the boundary is. I ran into some folks camping there last weekend, it looked like they had a rough night since they were still asleep at noon.
7
schwagpad said on March 23rd, 2010
I toproped blake's unfinished project before there were anchors. Hard moves, and it seemed like it would be a bit of a squeeze job.
8
Dman said on September 19th, 2010
the campsite is bad ass
9
Willy said on March 3rd, 2013
Rednecks destroyed the awesome campsite. Couches were all burned, shotgun shells everywhere, empty whiskey bottles gone and everything else that was cool about that site. I was pretty bummed when I discovered it
10
Tomer Oren said on March 24th, 2015
What about the steep and tall wall that is filled huecos, it is on your right if you walk through the notch (with the arĂȘte, Dirty Sanchez, on your left) and down and right the road for less then a minute? Are there any restrictions on it? Looks sweet!
11
Anonymous said on March 24th, 2015
Forest service land