Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.9 1 1 11 14
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Directions to Great Wall

Muir Valley
This wall is in property owned by Muir Valley. Be respectful.
If traveling from the Indy Wall, continue hiking left past the the Hideout and around the corner for about 5 minutes until you see the next bolted line which will be "La Escalada". There is another approach that leads directly to the Great Wall and bypasses the initial walkup to the Sanctuary/Indy Wall area. From the parking area, follow the main road down a large hill which curves sharply to the right near the bottom. After the curve, continue along the road for about 100 feet until you see another road branch off back to the northwest (left). Follow that road about 100 feet to a creek crossing and continue along a grassy road for about 5 minutes keeping the creek to your left. When the road turns sharply to the right, continue a few minutes longer until you see two wooden signs on a tree pointing to The Solarium and The Great Wall near an obvious stream crossing on the right. To reach The Great Wall, turn right and cross the stream then continue through a swampy area (with boardwalks) along the trail as it winds uphill to the wall. Routes are listed from left to right.

Wall Sun: Late afternoon



Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1b

Weapons of Mass Deception Trad 5.9
 
85  
Follow aesthetic angling fingercrack on the right side of the dihedral to a leftward roof traverse. Continue up the handcrack and arete feature to a large ledge with a roof. Don't forget to enjoy the view from the top. Steepness:

2

Ledgends of Limonite Sport 5.8
 
55  
Leftmost sport route on the Great Wall. Shares start with next route then traverse left along easy ledge to slabby face loaded with lots of limonite ledges. Steepness:

3

Ledgends of Limonite (Direct Start) Sport 5.10
 
50
Begin under the juggy roof with a large block for the start. Make the move out the roof and mantle onto the ledge. Steepness:

4

Glory and Consequence Sport 5.7
 
50
Very juggy face with many rests along the way. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : juggy-1

5

Touch of Grey Sport 5.10d
 
60
Aesthetic and slightly pumpy climbing with a few small edges and a long move or two along the way. Steepness:

6

Bitter Ray of Sunshine Sport 5.10a
 
65
Start on delicate mantle to a ledge approx 8 ft. left of Dynabolt Gold. Follow the rib to a series of surprisingly good jugs and two-finger pockets. Pull through the tricky roof and jug up the left water groove. Finish on wide crack to clip anchors. Steepness:

7

Dynabolt Gold Sport 5.10a
 
70
There are several ways to start this route. After clipping the first bolt climb up and over the many bulges on the heavily featured face. Steepness:

8

Little T-Bone Mixed 5.9
 
75
Begin under the obvious handcrack splitting the Great Wall. Boulder out the initial roof to an alcove with a bolt. Plug a piece, make the mental move, protect in the crack, and enjoy huge plates all the way to the end of the crack and another bolt on the juggy face above. Steepness:

9

Momma Cindy Sport 5.11a
 
70
Technical and sustained. Pull the bouldery start with a two finger pocket, some edges, and a few crimps then enjoy several balancy and reachy sections with a few fun slopers, edges, and sidepulls. Steepness:

10

Edge-a-Sketch Sport 5.11a
 
70
Another bouldery start begins this technical and thought-provoking route. It may keep you guessing with interesting moves all the way. Steepness:
Tags
crimpy-1

11

Ohio Arts Sport 5.12a
 
100
2nd pitch above "Edge-a-Sketch." Continue past the anchors following 3 more bolts up a black slab and over a fantastic overhanging flake feature to another black slab with tiny crimps and slopers. Steepness:

12

Buccaneer Sport 5.11b
 
70
Steepness:

13

La Escalada Sport 5.6
 
70
This is the rightmost route on the Great Wall. Step up some easy ledges to a right leaning ramp. Continue up the well-protected plated face to the anchors. To reach the following routes (IROP and others) continue following the trail to the right for approximately 100-200 feet. Steepness:

15

Unnamed Ramp Toprope 5.7
 
0  
Ramp to the right of La Escalada. Steepness:

Comments

1
J-Rock said on May 19th, 2005
For maps of the area go to www.muirvalley.com and look for the link to the "Friends of Muir Valley" newsletter.
2
sgauss said on October 20th, 2009
GPS N 37 degrees 43.984 minutes, W083 degrees 38.244 minutes
3
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2011
downrating every route on this wall by two letter grades would benefit new climbers appreciation of historical grading norms.
4
tbwilsonky said on July 6th, 2011
yeah but it would pretty much derail the New Climber Coddling Mandate (NCCM) set forth in section 6.23e of the much-maligned Americans for a Softer Future Program.
5
Anonymous said on July 7th, 2011
you know the trouble with twibbles? they're swonky.
6
dfspau2 said on June 14th, 2012
Great wall for an 11a leader...
7
Chiyram said on May 19th, 2014
I would take a grade or 2 off everything at this wall. Except for Buccaneer. All the climbs are awesome though.