Volunteer Wall

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.9 5 1 20 26
loading

Directions to Volunteer Wall

RRGCC
This wall is in property owned by RRGCC. Be respectful.
Drive 12.4 miles south on KY 11 from Miguel's toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2 miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve take a sharp right on Bald Fork Road. Follow the gravel road 1.55 miles to the well defined Sore Heel Hollow parking area on the left. Walk left out of the parking area a few hundred feet to the marked trailhead on the right. Take the first trail on the left which is well marked with a wooden sign. Follow the trail a for about 10 minutes until you meet the wall. The trail curves around the rock and the first route you meet up with is Generosity. It is also possible to continue up the road past the trailhead on the right for a few hundred feet and take the next trail on the right marked by a sign reading "Volunteer Wall".

Wall Sun: Unknown

{show overview map}


Click the column heads to sort. Hold shift to sort on multiple columns.
Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Bleed Like Me Sport 5.12b
 
65
This difficult line is the last line on the left before the large ampitheater at Volunteer Wall. Climb the bulge infested face making delicate use of pinches and pockets. Steepness:

2

Same Way Sport 5.11b
 
65
Next bolted line 20 feet right of Bleed Like Me. Pull past a sequence of large plates to a ledge. From the ledge, step up into pumpy pockets through a series of subtle bulges. Steepness:

2a

Pinkies Extended Sport 5.10c
 
65
Bust a low boulder problem to gain this enjoyable mix of juggy plates with a few hard moves thrown in. Take advantage of the rest before the upper crux! Steepness:

2b

Smell the Glove Mixed 5.8
 
65  
A couple bolts of juggy face leads to a cool juggy lieback crack. Descend from the sport anchor on Pinkies. Steepness:

3

Hurt Sport 5.10c
 
65
Begin on a boulder 50 feet right of the previous line. Climb around a large plate which leads to pockets and edges on a more featured section of the wall. Steepness:

4

A Chip Off the Old Sturnum Trad 5.8
 
80  
The right-facing dihedral around the corner from Hurt. Climb up to a ledge underneath a roof. Traverse underneath the roof via face holds, and continue up the crack to chain anchors. Be sure to inspect the anchor situation on this route before lowering. There has been a stress fracture surrounding them for years. Steepness:

5

Darwin Loves You Sport 5.9+
 
50
This is the next bolted line 100 feet right of the dihedral. Begin with a reachy start then continue up short but fun face on sidepulls to a time-bomb clipping hold. Steepness:
Tags
pumpy-1 : fun-2 : short-2 : beautiful-1 : juggy-2

6

Johnny on Roofies Sport 5.11a
 
65  
Move right from Darwin Loves You to the next bolted line on the wall. Climb through easy moves then crux out to pull over a bulge. Continue on incut shelves to the anchors. Steepness:

7

Donor Sport 5.11b
 
45  
In the center of the wall pull a shallow opening roof just to the right of the previous route's start. Continue through consistent climbing on an obvious line of crimps and plates through a bulge midway. Pull over the bulge and move up on sidepulls to the anchors. Steepness:

7a

Let's Boogie Sport 5.11b
 
50
Plates and slopey edges lead to a run to the anchors. between Donor and The Wal-martification of Trad Steepness:

8

The Wal-Martification of Trad Trad 5.8
 
50
Move right from the previous line, past a large crack in a corner, to this line which begins as a fingercrack and shares anchors with Family Tradition. Steepness:

9

Family Tradition Sport 5.10b
 
50
Move right from the previous crack climb a few feet to the next bolted line on the wall which begins as a crack. Begin with hard moves down low and crimp up to a sequence of awkward moves to reach rounded bulges near the top. Steepness:

10

Tong Shing Sport 5.10d
 
55  
RIght of Family Tradition is this featured face with some grooves near the top. Begin on two crimps just left of a stump, below and right of the first bolt to avoid the rotten rock below and to the left of the bolt line. Pull up to a pinch and then move on to the first bolt. Clip and climb on past the first bolt and left of the bolt line to the anchors. Steepness:

11

Anger Management Trad 5.8+
 
65
Climb the offwidth dihedral right of Tong Shing. Rap tree or walk off right. Steepness:
Tags
sharp-1

12

Nice to Know You Sport 5.10b
 
40
Tiptoe up to the 1st bolt, pull through the bulge and launch into slab moves and crimps. High-quality technical moves above interspersed with "Thank You!" pockets keep the route interesting. Steepness:

13

Helping Hands Sport 5.10d
 
40
Another fun line located right of Nice to Know You. Steepness:

14

Swap Meet Sport 5.6
 
35
This short sport route is just right of Helping Hands on a corner. Climb past a dirty start then continue up the face passing a perfectly spherical hold along the way. Steepness:

15

Farley's Folly Sport 5.10a
 
40
Walk right from Swap Meet to the next bolted line 10 feet left of Haas Memorial Route. Boulder out the roof to start, and cruise to the next roof on big holds. Balance up the remainder of the line. Steepness:

16

The Haas Memorial Route Trad 5.10a
 
90
This is one of the better offwidths outside of Muscle Beach. Locate the next dihedral 50ft. left of Four Shower Tokens. Start back in the cave and traverse out the roof crack to gain the wide dihedral. Get physical and leavittate up the offwidth to a ledge with a sketchy clump of trees. Chimney to a higher tree and top out. Steepness:

17

Stephanie's Cabaret Sport 5.11c
 
50
Walk right from The Haas Memorial Route to the next bolted line just before a cave. Climb through a dirty start then crank through long moves and a couple of fingerlocks to the first set of anchors. Steepness:

18

Stephanie's Cabaret (2nd pitch) Sport 5.12a
 
80  
Continue past the first set of chains to the next set. Steepness:

18a

Labor Day Weekend Sport 5.12a
 
70  
Start to the right under a low roof. Pull out from under the roof and up on to the face angling left. Catch a quick breather before tackling a bouldery crux on crimps with a tricky reach through as you move back and forth across the bolt line. A body-sized hueco midway up on the left offers a good rest before ending on slot pockets, crimps and pinches. Located between Four Shower Tokens, A Guinness, and My Girl (to the right) and Stephanie's Cabaret (to the left). Steepness:

19

Four Shower Tokens, A Guiness and My Girl Trad 5.8-
 
50
Start back in the cave just left of Normalised Bramapithecus. Work up the face to gain the thin roof crack. Surmount the low crux with a Houdini move, then enjoy large holds and nice ledges up the face. When the wide dihedral looses it's appeal, abandon it for the right leaning crack on the main face. Follow it to the anchors of Normalised Bramapithecus. Steepness:

20

Normalised Bramapithecus Sport 5.10d
 
65
This route ascends the slightly overhanging face just right of the previous trad line. Reach high for the start holds then surmount a roof to gain the face. Steepness:

21

First Time Sport 5.8+
 
50
Walk 25 feet right from the previous bolted line to this enjoyable line which ascends black rock just left of a corner. Begin on a boulder and climb through surprisingly good holds to the anchors. Steepness:
Tags
shady-1

22

Generosity Sport 5.10d
 
55
Just around the corner from First Time. Grab sandy holds start and climb to a bulge. Crank over the lip and gain a stance. Climb up the slightly overhanging face and enjoy the improving quality of the rock with each move. Steepness:

Comments

1
Anonymous said on March 16th, 2005
Aren't there some other routes here? What are they? Who developed this cliff? I think we climbed several routes in this area. Me and my buddies coudn't figure it out. The directions mention "routes" and the guide here only one listed.
2
Anonymous said on March 16th, 2005
Aren't there some other routes here? What are they? Who developed this cliff? I think we climbed several routes in this area. Me and my buddies coudn't figure it out. The directions mention "routes" and the guide here only one listed.
3
Steve said on May 1st, 2005
I believe the approach trail spits you out near Swap Meet. To reach SM head left staying along the cliff. If you head left, away and uphill (not staying along cliff) you will come out to the right of Family Tradition. First Time is to the right when you come up the main approach trail, or can be reached when coming from Left Field/ Private Playground/ et al.
4
gladhander said on July 17th, 2006
Does anybody know the details on the sport route to the left of Stephanie's Cabaret. The map in the parking lot says nothing but that it is a 12. Does seem a 12 but i liked the route
5
SCIN said on November 25th, 2006
Parking Area GPS Coordinates: Latitude 37.65139, Longitude 83.71667
6
Gaar said on December 7th, 2006
The are 2 more routes left of darwin loves you....The first one encounter started on a big ledge 20 feet up, and felt 10b/c ish, 7/8 bolts ...didnt get on the next one left! anybody know anything?
7
RRO said on December 7th, 2006
yeah we know about them. will be online soon. please leave fixed ropes and left gear where they are.
8
Gaar said on December 8th, 2006
Thats cool matt...The lines where those ropes are look like they are going to be real nice
9
TIT said on June 18th, 2007
There is also a new route to the left of The Haas Memorial Route. It has a boulderly roof start with a heel hook and huge hand holds. There is a second roof about halfway up. It is probably around a 9 to 9+ and pretty fun route.
10
pigsteak said on June 25th, 2007
what is the route to the left of the Haas memorial Route?
11
One-Fall said on July 6th, 2007
I want to join in . . . anyone know what the route left of the Haas Memorial Route is? Good route with interesting movement.
12
Green3 said on October 2nd, 2007
Anyone with route adding ability... read the last three comments on the Volunteer Wall and throw the route up on the page... if you don't mind. I seem to remember it being like a 10a, but it was a while ago...
13
sportclimber810 said on April 6th, 2008
dont try climbing here after it rains. everything was wet.
14
anticlmber said on November 10th, 2008
this crag is good, almost every route up there is some quality rockclimbing of all types. i would avoid it.
15
davidbr said on September 9th, 2010
Climbed the off-width right of Anger Management. Takes gear from about 3 to 8 inches, with the majority in the 5-6 inch range. Grade-wise, it is a bit tougher than Anger Management. I do not really think that Anger Management is an .8+ as the book says (maybe 7+) and the line to its right is not a .9, so it probably ought to be given an .8+ as well.
16
strawmyers said on July 11th, 2016
Climbed here on a dry day after two days of rain. A couple of the routes were too wet to climb and there were random wet splotches here and there; but most of the routes were fine for us. Johnny on Roofies and Nice to Know You were both great routes for their respective grades. Don't rely on the "overhead view" drawing on this page to give you an even remotely accurate idea of the spacing between routes...
17
Anonymous said on September 15th, 2016
Watch the fuck out at Volunteer wall, SuperSafeIan has been "fixing" routes here. Consider climbing elsewhere until the HW falls out and an experienced Developer intervenes.
18
climb2core said on September 15th, 2016
https://www.facebook.com/RRGFixedGearInitiative/photos/pcb.666410776858593/666407393525598/?type=3&theater No good deed goes unpunished, huh? But no worries, I have been rebolting routes all over the Red. You should never, ever climb in in the Red just to be safe.
19
Anonymous said on September 15th, 2016
ian, ppl give you shit, and sometimes i think rightly so cuz you don't seem to understand what internet trolls are, but i just wanted you to know that there are a lot of people out there who appreciate what you're doing.
20
climb2core said on September 16th, 2016
ha, thx. I just wonder how shitty their life must be that this is how they get their jollies. But really, it doesn't bother me as much as everyone seems to think. I just find it entertaining and respond.
21
Anonymous said on September 16th, 2016
Trolls are turds
22
Anonymous said on September 16th, 2016
Yes Ian you find it entertaining to respond just like they find it entertaining to troll you. For everyone's sake please stop feeding the trolls.
23
Anonymous said on September 20th, 2016
Great, Ian's Mom is posting here now.
24
Anonymous said on November 14th, 2016
Does anybody know what the bolted line between Tong Shing and Anger Management is?
25
Prefontaine said on June 20th, 2017
I was wondering if anyone has climbed or has info on the crack system that starts inside the amphitheater? It traverses out and goes up into a much wider crack at the far left end of this wall.