Pinch-em Tight Ridge

Grade Trad Mixed Sport Total
5.4 5 - - 5
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Directions to Pinch-em Tight Ridge

USFS
This wall is in property owned by USFS. Be respectful.
From the intersection of KY 77 with KY 715 near Fortress Wall, stay on KY 715 for 1.5 miles to a small road on the right which leads down to a large parking area for the Sheltowee Trace trail. Pinch-em Tight Ridge is the large wall across the river to the southeast. From the parking area, walk downstream along the river to a ford and cross. It is also possible to hike upstream until you reach a pedestrian bridge to cross but this will add a 1/2 hour onto the approach time. The river crossing is usually pretty high during the winter and spring but lower the rest of the year. From the crossing, hike uphill to the right heading for the wall. There is a tall rockhouse a few hundred feet north of Pinch-em Tight Gap which is used as a reference for some of the routes. The rockhouse was referred to as "The Hole" in previous guidebooks and can be seen from the road.

Wall Sun: Unknown



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Route Spray Name Type Grade Quality Length Picture

1

Cold Feet Trad 5.4
 
40  
This route is located on the northeast side of the rock and leads up to a large ledge. The line begins below a crack in the middle of the wall and is left of a hole. Steepness:

2

Bungle Through the Jungle Trad 5.6
 
120  
This route may not be visible during the summer due to the heavy vegetation lining the crack. Climb Cold Feet to the ledge then walk 100 feet left to a shallow dihedral. Continue up through the dihedral past trees and vegetation to the top. Steepness:

3

Duke's Day Trad 5.6
 
150
This route begins in a dihedral right of the hole mentioned in the introduction. Climb a crack to a tree covered ledge and belay. Continue up a jam crack past a roof then continue up easy rails on the face left of a wide crack. Place protection in the wide crack to the right. Steepness:

4

Orangutan Trad 5.8+
 
119  
Recent confusion with attempting to locate this line suggests that it may be to the right of Duke's Day and not to the left as previous guidebooks stated. Whether to the right, or to the left, the best way to locate this line is to look for the only obvious route in the area that is located under an overhang that keeps the lower part dry. The line begins as a large left-facing dihedral and contains a jug handle with a fixed sling and old fixed gear up high below an overhang that leads to the upper crack. Continue to the top of the wall via the crack above the overhang. Steepness:

5

It Ain't Easy Being Cheesy Trad 5.9
 
100  
Walk right from the previous line to a short easy crack which leads to a tree covered ledge. Move left through shrubs to a handcrack in a right facing dihedral. Up to roof, move left to small ledge and rap from a fixed wire. Steepness:

Comments

1
Anonymous said on January 5th, 2005
Duke's Day/Orangutan GPS: 37.8204N, 83.6314W
2
Ascentionist said on December 5th, 2005
There are some othe nice lines on this rock.