COVID-19 Climbing Guidelines: The Red River Gorge in the Daniel Boone National Forest, Muir Valley, and all RRGCC-owned property - which includes Miller Fork Recreational Preserve, Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, and Pendergrass-Murray Recreational Preserve - request that you follow the guidelines outlined on each website if you choose to climb during this time. See links above for more details about each climbing area.

Magic Bed

This route is located in the Miller Fork at The Infirmary

Typhoid Mary

0 votes

Phantom Pain 5.11c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Mike Wheatley, Dustin Stephens in 2013
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin with a big move to a nice angled jug. Move up through several flat sections of rock using big pulls on big holds. Surpass a small roof at the top and dig deep at the chains.
Moves: Pumpy
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC

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Quality Consensus

3.7 stars (46 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (57 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 17th, 2016

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Oct 17th, 2016

Submitted by: Lil Josh
Date: Oct 5th, 2014


pigsteak said on December 14th, 2013
thx Mike...sweet line.
Anonymous said on December 15th, 2013
Second to last bolt is pretty scary looking, splintering choss all over it.
Jeff said on December 15th, 2013
Very good line. If I had a bit more endurance and smarts to realize which hold to clip the anchors from, I might have sent! The left anchor bolt could be tightened with my fingers. All we had was a small pair of channel locks and I got about two turns using them. They were tiny. If someone reads this and gets on this route soon, bring a 9/16's and crank them down please.
njclimber said on May 1st, 2014
Left a cleaner biner. Might work better up a few more bolts...good movement...sustained the whole way
Anonymous said on May 1st, 2014
booty call!
Anonymous said on May 10th, 2014
In what world is this 11a?
Andrew said on May 11th, 2014
Well... So far everyone on hear has comment 11a with no other suggestions. So sounds like community agrees. By the way are you saying harder or easier. I'm not sure.
dustonian said on May 11th, 2014
agreed... 5.10 tops ;)
Michael_W said on July 11th, 2014
That second last bolt was bad so I moved it today.
Anonymous said on October 8th, 2014
harder than the 11c to the right (which felt easier than a C).
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2014
This one is now about 8' longer with a fun crux at the top, def. solid mid-11
Anonymous said on November 27th, 2014
great the route ending police is out and changing anchors again.
MartyV said on March 31st, 2015
Harder than than .11c to the right with the higher chains.
dustonian said on March 31st, 2015
Magic Bed is a far cry from 11c
MartyV said on March 31st, 2015
Actually having been on Hammer Time .11b and Return of the Mohan .11d, right before jumping on Phantom, Phantom a felt more like ROTM than it did like HT to me.
Anonymous said on March 31st, 2015
Sounds like you got worked on Mohan
Anonymous said on March 31st, 2015
just switch the grades of phantom pain and magic bed and call it a day. you're welcome.
Anonymous said on October 23rd, 2015
11c , really fun climb. definitely harder than its neighbor to the right, which has a no hands rest. both are must do!
climb2core said on November 29th, 2015
Good climb. What's the story with the anchors and the 4ft of chain?
Andrew said on November 29th, 2015
Dustin moved the anchors up and it resulted in the last move being disproportionately harder than the rest. So the chains were extended to be able to clip there. I think that is the story
dustonian said on November 29th, 2015
Last 6' is not any harder than the rest of the route and has some of the best rock quality on the wall
Anonymous said on November 29th, 2015
Didn't look too much harder? Isn't that what a crux is? Unless it jumped a full number grade it seems like the logical finish. Didn't really notice the high finish until I was cleaning on the route to the right. I'll have to try going all the way next time. Ian
Andrew said on November 30th, 2015
Dustin is right that this is some of the best rock on the climb and the last 6' feet aren't any harder... except the very last move. I believe the chains were added after several people commented on the last move (not all the last 6') being disproportionately harder than the rest. You can ask Mike (who bolted it), but I am not sure he wanted the route to be that much harder when extended than the original version.
dustonian said on November 30th, 2015
For me the crux is still getting to the rest before the original anchor. Anyway, could just put bolts in the old holes if you still have any of those big fatties.
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2015
climbed it in October, there were long chains then if I remember correctly. Did the anchors get moved since then? Hopefully not, think they were fine where they were. Really nice stone with a pumpy finish/crux but not too disproportionate compared to the rest of the climb.
Chiyram said on December 14th, 2015
Pretty cool route. You can clip the chains by doing the last move to above the chains, but it was pretty tough for me after the pump set in. I think you can reach chains from a lower hold though, but seemed like it was would be a high clip.
Willy said on May 19th, 2016
No more long chains on this one.
lena_chita said on October 17th, 2016
I wish the longer chains were still there... Or better yet, the anchors were in the original spot. The top move is "not any harder" if you are "not any shorter than ~5.8". I watched a bunch of people climbing this. The first guy who climbed it was over 6 feet tall. And he happily hung the anchor draw from the good holds. And left the draw there for all the other guys who climbed later, and also happily clipped the anchors, with the draw now hanging, from the low holds, then doing the finish move for a "bonus". Then I tried to do the same... it didn't work out for some reason.
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2016
lena_chita said on October 27th, 2016
Hi, dear Anonymous. I spent the last couple weeks thinking that I knew who you were, but it turns out I had the wrong person all along. So, if you were to come out, I promise, I'm a safe person to come out to. It's more fun to laugh with someone.
usmcmars said on December 2nd, 2016
I agree with Lena. The climb is fun and pretty chill until the last move going to the anchors, then it is stinking hard and height dependant. I am about Lena's height. If there used to be long chains and people were clipping from the low slopey jug, the grade is the same throughout, but that one extra move changes things dramatically.
Anonymous said on December 2nd, 2016
Yeah it actually becomes an 11c then
usmcmars said on December 20th, 2017
We extended the chains on this climb today at the request of Michael Wheatley.
Anonymous said on December 20th, 2017
11a/b again.
Anonymous said on April 28th, 2018
11c/d if you clip from sloping jug; 11d/12a if you pull the last slot reach to higher jug
Anonymous said on October 12th, 2020
(+1) a 11c/d if clipping on the slopy jug; 11d/12a if clipping above the anchor. As of 10/10/2020, there's no extended chain anymore, so a solid 11d, maybe 12a if you're short. I'm 6'1.
Anonymous said on October 12th, 2020
Wow, you have some super impressive grading sensors. You really think you're that good at knowing those hyper specific differences?
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2020
it's called a personal opinion. Don't be sarcastic.
Anonymous said on October 13th, 2020
When there is a button specifically to vote your grade opinion, what's the point in making a comment too?