Actually routes 41-44 are further right then they are listed

Does anyone know if Torrent has been reopened to the public? And if not, is there still climbing available at the RRGCC meetings?

Looks like its back to sweatbands and tight pants for meeee.

Could be, I guess, but your girl doesn't seem to mind....

Question: Is it OK to climb on routes 38 and up? When you walk through the amphitheater on the way to #38 there is a "Property Boundary" sign. Does that sign still apply, and if so, is the other landowner cool with climbers?

ACD: An example of future climbing is the PMRP and all that Access Fund is doing. By the way, the PMRP was made possible by the man who purchased Torrent, a once completely closed crag but now is his home so the climbing there is his backyard. The minor stipulations to access the crag ain't so bad.

which one was that again Andy?

I did a trad route to the right of Dream of a Bee, and to the left of Cordelia, and moved out right to the anchors of Cordelia to rap... i thought this was the 5.2 Hmmm..but looking back I see that Hmmm is further right......thought it was cool and fun.... Dru Mack

You can start by not being an anonymous, dicklicking SOB. The money you so graciously gave went to purchase PMRP, where you can go. NOT Torrent. Bob bought Torrent with his money at the same time he was helping pay for the PMRP. But you're right, he's such a selfish asshole. Fuckfaces like you need to get your head out of your ass so that my foot can fit. Maybe then bob would let you play. With his balls.

I think only his friends get to play with his balls. Maybe you should retire Old Timer. Maybe you and bob can close some more cliffs for us. There should be an age limit on climbers. People like you are a waste of skin and a drain on resources.

How dare you! I'll wrap my dick around your neck and start you up like a lawnmower!

So "city folk" ruined it? The same city folk who donate money? The same city folk who bring in tourist dollars? Maybe you should stop excepting money from the city folk when they climb. Maybe someone should tell all the city folk they (and their money) are not welcomed or wnated at Rocktoberfest.

please do. fuck, "city folk." i'd rape everyone of you in a deliverance style, pig squeal, ass rape if i could. hell, that might generate money since the majority of you are worthless, cumguzzling wastes of tommy hillfuck jeans and beamers. bring your ass down here and just expect the world to be given to you, drop the annon moniker and make yourself known. i'll be glad to drag you through a mudpuddle and stomp a hole in your ass any day. ANY DAY cocksucker. and spikedemon..... you ain't see riled up.

Contact you for what? Get over yourself. You are not helping climbers by closing access,no matter what you and you friends think. Good way to get people to stop donating. I have an idea!! Maybe you could help us all out and buy more rock and close it to climbers,maybe even try to get donations to help make it possible. Dr.Bob,protecting access one closure at a time!

Just to point out, routes #40 and up are now part of the via ferrata, so they aren't open for sport climbing. Dr. Bob, keep up the good work. I've stayed on the grounds a couple of times & I think its an incredible place. Many thanks for keeping it beautiful. ACD: If you ever travel from the UK again, paying to stay at Torrent is the best investment you can make in a trip to the RRG. -Matt.

Will it ever be open to the public again? Is this really a private playground for friends of the owner as posted above? Is this where donation money goes?

This is a privately owned crag that the owner graciously allows people to register online and climb at during weekends. If you are active in the community, you get to climb here. As far as I know, no one who is positive and has donated a lot of time to make climbing better in the red has been denied access. If you are from out of town and can't make it on weekends then you can complain once you have sent the other 2000 routes in the red. The RRGCC does not own the crag and no money that goes to the RRGCC goes here. If you get to climb here, then yes, toss in a small donation. If you don't like any of this, tough. People are allowed to do with their privately owned land whatever they want, including only inviting people they know. If you think this is unfair, try climbing at Roadside.

We stayed at the torrent cabins this weekend (great choice considering all the rain). Many of the routes at torrent are in severe need of bolt replacement. Specifically, about five ten - i didn't check the bolts, but the chains looked in rough shape from the top of reanimator Reanimator - Anchors chains are not safe and the bolts are nearly there too (I put two quick links on there today in order to rappel safely). The rest of the bolts have severe levels of rust (little to none on the hangers, no spinners found). It's Alive - i didn't check the bolts, but the chains were completely rusted when viewing from the top of reanimator. Pocket pussy, Sex Show, seek the truth, sport for brains, Ode to poopie head, and stool sample -> all the first/second bolts show high levels of rust on the bolts. I assume the anchors are in similar shape (I didn't climb these). I have made them aware of the state of these anchors directly through email, but I'd recommend staying away from these until you see some shiny new gear on them. Torrent is a really great place to climb, especially if you've graduated from camping to cabins (they're really nice, can't beat the approach either).

that's good to know. I've always found it hard to evaluate bolt rust. The first chain link on the left anchor is not just rusted, it's ~50% worn through, so that one would be one to bump up the torrent priority list (fun route too). I think I would be interested in helping out too. I travel from Milwaukee for my rrg trips, so I've donated $$ in lieu of my time (trail days,etc). But gaining experience in a re-bolting effort sounds like a cool thing to do and learn about. So please do contact me and hopefully we can work out some logistics.

I am NOT, NOT, NOT trying to be critical of the Torrent situation. But given the restricted access and the payment setup, should they not maintain bolts themselves? Or, is climbing viewed as incidental to cabin rental? Like, why should RRG-wide volunteers donate time/effort/money to a place where most people can't climb?

Right on. Umm, no, not trying to tell you what to do. I guess it just never occurred to me that Torrent would still need volunteer work to maintain stuff since it seemed to have adopted more of a pay-for-play model. Again, not being critical of it. And I'm sure someone could log on and say I don't know what I'm talking about, which I am preemptively admitting.

Is the only way to access Torrent by renting a cabin? I see there is a part of torrentclimbing.com that talks about daily registration, but registration always seems to be closed.

<=== Disrespecting two generous landowners at once. True douchebag skills.

Oh you're right. I feel so bad sneaking into a gated community that has littered the cliffs with rebar and steel cable to climb dangerously neglected routes with bolts that could actually fail.

Youre confusing two different private lands... I have no dog in it anymore. but if people come up my driveway, unwelcomed, they will leave in a different state than they started. We just wear the diapers for a fashion statement.

It was all Torrent for a long time. So I can understand anons confusion.

Based on reading the Rules Page on their site, sounds like they don't want climbing here at all. 10-6, what kind of time frame for climbing is that? Maybe in the winter that would be appropriate, but any other season, that's a pretty late start, and an extremely early end. The rock better be world class to want to climb here with the threat of being locked in if youre running behind at the end of the day. I've never been, and again, strictly based on the way the rules page is written, I'll never want to. If it's free, then obviously they couldn't care less about my thoughts, but if they are running a business here, good luck to them.

Comment #54 YOU and your entitled attitude have no place here. Thank you Bob for everything you’ve done.

All hail glorious Dr Bob, all shall bow down to him as he has cured AIDS and saved climbing in the Red!!! What would we do without him!? Come on guys, settle the F down.

I hate the attitude that land ownership means the owner can do whatever they want with the land, without being subject to scrutiny from others. Thousands and thousands of people have a great deal of interest in the cliffs at Torrent and Roadside (etc.). They are community resources with incredible value, created by the timeless forces of the natural world. And some guy / gal buys it at a given point in history and all of a sudden what they say is gospel?! Fuck that. If that's what you believe, then you're a boot-licking chump. Uncritical worship of ownership is not that far from straight up tyrannical rule.

The wealthy deserve power. Got it.

I feel like the first part of your comment answers the question in the second part. As you so eloquently point out, I lack the financial means to purchase Torrent. In this period of unprecedented income and wealth inequality, so do most people. In your view, this means that we are "weak ass bitches" who have never achieved anything. I don't share your view. My view is that management of cherished places is better and more equitably handled through some type of community management than through private ownership. This is not addressed specifically at Dr. Bob, by the way. I don't know him or much about the larger situation. I'm just responding to the idea that the simple fact of land ownership precludes the possibility of community input on the management of what are truly, in the end, communal resources. That cliff has existed for millenia, and will exist long after we are all gone. Some would argue that private ownership is the most efficient path toward preservation, which is a view I disagree with in the long run, but which is fair enough in the short run. I think your personal view, though, is your more standard boot-licking.

Nope. I think property ownership is fine in general. There is little community-wide interest in your standard plot in suburban Lexington, and I am fine with private interests seeking profit from the purchase and sale of land. Some places, though, are special. This is a rather uncontroversial point in most capitalist societies, including ours (see: National Parks, etc.). All I'm saying is that I would love to see Roadside and Torrent (as well as a host of other privately-owned cliffs that currently grant community access, along with those that do not) folded into the RRGCC over the long-run, and would put my money where my mouth is in terms of making that happen. I'm guessing you'll say, "Well make it happen and quit bitching," but it's a lot more complicated than that.

The tragedy in the red is not privately owned crags like this. Rather it is the ridiculously restrictive “management” of the public lands. They have been planning to study the archeological resources of the area for the last 30 years. Holistically closing off thousands of miles of cliff line with zero progress. How this is not the Access Funds number one priority and what we are all up in arms about is beyond me. There are hundreds of Torrents and Roadsides that we are not even allowed to trad climb at! So...do we really want that same government to take over Torrent and Roadside?

well, for most of the last 30 years the 'coalition' under Bill Strachan's leadership were unable to move the Forest Service on the ban on bolting, and gave indication that questions about the process were interference, or at least not clarifying or beneficial. over this time the push for private ownership by the coalition emerged, for better or worse. i would think that if the coalition were to prioritize ownership of roadside and torrent then some time in the future an opportunity may present itself. be prepared?

The Bob worshp is amusing. Been climbing at the Red 15 years, he hasn't done anything for me.... Do I still need to worship him as RRG god and savior? Seriously climbing bums, calm down...