Search found 2239 matches

by 512OW
Fri May 10, 2013 12:18 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: RRG Test Pieces - 12a,b,c,d
Replies: 35
Views: 116809

Re: RRG Test Pieces - 12a,b,c,d

12a Too Many Puppies, Swedish Fish (Bare Metal is too much like Chainsaw to make my list.)
12b Buff The Wood, Mercy The Huff
12c Hellraiser, Jesus Wept
12d 8Ball
by 512OW
Sun Apr 21, 2013 11:02 pm
Forum: Classifieds
Topic: FS - Arc'teryx Miura 50 Pack and Rope Bag $100
Replies: 7
Views: 1463

Re: FS - Arc'teryx Miura 50 Pack and Rope Bag $100

Jo... I might be interested for Annalissa. We'll try one on in town and let you know, if you don't unload it first!
by 512OW
Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:17 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Sandbag or Fluff:
Replies: 50
Views: 6408

Re: Sandbag or Fluff:

I always wonder when a climb feels hard for me at a given grade, is it a sandbag or is it just pointing out more deficits in my technique. Yep. I can't recall very many sandbags at the Red, of any grade or type. Actually, I'm not sure I can recall any. Maybe "The Specimen", but only barely if at al...
by 512OW
Sat Oct 13, 2012 12:15 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: By the numbers.
Replies: 63
Views: 8324

Re: By the numbers.

Go to the Indian Creek forum and ask this question. That'll really fuck up your logic. Exactly. It's all about what you spend your time doing. A crack climber friend of mine from Colorado came out a few years ago, sent Welcome To Ole Kentuck in a few tries, and then spent the rest of his trip tryin...
by 512OW
Fri Jul 13, 2012 7:23 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Fear of Falling
Replies: 32
Views: 3625

Re: Fear of Falling

I hate falling. It's still scary... every time. That said, I've taken 40 footers on gear and 70 footers on bolts. The best way I know to combat it is to make the decision when you leave the ground, or when you begin climbing, to not fall....either onsight or redpoint. Once I've decided this, then fa...
by 512OW
Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:36 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Have you ever placed a pin?
Replies: 71
Views: 10132

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

dustonian wrote: Although there are a very few outliers (Jim Beyer?), if someone places a pin nowadays,

I used Jim's name in a song and always wondered if any other climbers knew who the hell I was talking about.
by 512OW
Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:35 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Have you ever placed a pin?
Replies: 71
Views: 10132

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

ow- i don't understand why you think bridwell's approach is 'shortsighted,' by your own recollection (which i appreciate you sharing) he was thinking about the future and how to mitigate impact. maybe you are questioning his assumption that the route would be banged out? Shortsighted in that clean ...
by 512OW
Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:00 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Have you ever placed a pin?
Replies: 71
Views: 10132

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

Basically, it is the same thing. His reasoning however was that eventually the aid climbers would pound it out anyway, so why not pound it out just enough to let it go free and clean, and and cut off any reason for pins to be placed there again. Shortsighted, in my opinion.
by 512OW
Wed Jun 20, 2012 12:18 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Have you ever placed a pin?
Replies: 71
Views: 10132

Re: Have you ever placed a pin?

But I have never heard of anyone nailing a cracks around here until the old pin placements turn into fingerlocks. Is it ever the same person that nails the crack then uses the ensuing flaired fingerlocks??? It is my impression that hammering routes is shortsighted. Bridwell pioneered the use of rep...
by 512OW
Thu May 24, 2012 2:37 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
Replies: 16
Views: 5171

Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

The short answer is no, you don't need to. The better answer is yes, you should anyway. If you're already approaching 5.13, I'd suggest that you're training be mostly bouldering, focusing in blocks of power and power endurance. General juggy endurance comes fast... in just a couple of weeks... faste...
by 512OW
Mon Apr 30, 2012 3:19 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad as a Fad?
Replies: 139
Views: 14129

Re: Trad as a Fad?

Shamis, I've never seen a trad route with hard to place gear that didn't already have that difficulty built into the grade. If you stop and place every 3 feet, making the route harder, then its no different than trying to stop and rest on the crux of a sport route. The route isn't harder just becaus...
by 512OW
Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:54 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad as a Fad?
Replies: 139
Views: 14129

Re: Trad as a Fad?

I am comparing it to those things. I've not seen these grade differences people speak of. The 11s in yosemite, jtree, and vedauwoo all felt easier than the 11s here. The 12s in those places were certainly easier. I find the 11 trad routes here to be comparable to the 11 sport routes. Windy Corner? I...
by 512OW
Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:29 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad as a Fad?
Replies: 139
Views: 14129

Re: Trad as a Fad?

This is how it breaks down... "hard core climbers" are ego maniacs. So of course, whatever they are into seems like the best thing in the world . Same reason your aforementioned Scin and Odub thought Trad was cool back then and Sport is great now..... because that is what they were/are into. P.s. I...
by 512OW
Mon Apr 30, 2012 11:44 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: Trad as a Fad?
Replies: 139
Views: 14129

Re: Trad as a Fad?

I've said it before, and I'll say it again... trad climbing, for the majority of those who partake, is an excuse. Its an excuse to not try hard. Its an excuse to be antisocial. Its an excuse to be a pussy. Its an excuse to suck. Ray sold out long before me because he's smarter. Plain and simple. Tha...
by 512OW
Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:57 am
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Tendinitis
Replies: 58
Views: 11840

Re: Tendinitis

Kris, I'd love to hear more about how youve been using the Flexbar. How long? How have you used it? What makes you think its been effective? Kelly, for how, I pretty much followed the directions that the manufacturer gives. How long? During bouldering season, nearly daily. Sometimes as a preventati...