redriverclimbing.com

A termite walks into a bar and asks, "Is the bar tender here?"

Glad to see you weren't seriously maimed. To add to your warning, we had the entire wall of Hot September shift on us as we were climbing it. The entire wall, 100' tall x 30' wide by who knows how thick moved an inch or so. We also had the block on top of Arrowhead rock on us as we were on it. We pr...

The ASCA says from testing that a toprope fall can generate 1,000 lbs force in the anchors based on testing they did. link below: http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/fallforces.htm I agree most bolts will be fine and rarely fatigue fail but the one I showed did fatigue crack and fail with little n...

A fatigue failure is the result of many smaller load cycles vs one larger load. The shown photo was the result of the anchor sticking out just a little too far from the rock resulting in a bending moment in the bolt instead of mostly shear with most bolts. Bolts are great in shear but not nearly as ...

How many high load cycles does it take to fatigue fail a bolt or hanger? 100 Whipper Snappers, 1000, 10,000? I guess it depends if it gets plastic or remains elastic.

Did I run into you at the RR gorge the weekend prior? You were taking a 12 sport climber trad climbing then heading to WY for some offwidths.

Is that a 14 mile round trip? Do you bivy for that peak? Or are you a trail warrior? We got some great Lumpy climbing in but RMNP has been tough with weather. Maybe I need to switch to WY.

If you were on Longs this past weekend, you got hammered. We were on Notchtop and got hit by hail, then rain, then the lightning started. The weather blew in 3 hours ahead of schedule.

Or the group of locals going through the gorge with assault riffles, at 2 AM, in torrential downpour, with live fire random shooting back near Military Wall one night. We didn't sleep much that night. The early days of the gorge were a bit crazy.

http://geochange.er.usgs.gov/sw/impacts ... /pastclim/
We are in-between ice ages at the warmest part plus extra co2 for a blanket of extra warmth. First hot then we will be slammed with another ice age.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z8zfW4MZEfg/Vq2kWi8Q9yI/AAAAAAAAAfY/BWwYBd9P9Xw/s640-Ic42/IMG_6281.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wNxfm42WwLk/Vq2kOgQGWVI/AAAAAAAAAfQ/QEVEZnx_UnM/s912-Ic42/IMG_6156.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-zWLAEMeJHak/Vq2l1IyvFwI/AAAAAAAAAfo/CMhc82-Bhbk/s640...

J-Ru wrote:I the last few pictures I see a rope coming up to you, but no gear on your harness or in the crack. Am I missing it?

It is DWS past the white part due to poor rock quality from being submerged in the past. Dam water level is way down.

ynp1 wrote:TradMike, where are those photos taken? I took a climbing trip down the Green River last April. Looks kind of similar. Nice pics!

Lake Powell, UT - Climbing was done on the Escalante River Arm.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-f_mQbOyOmhw/VqhBjsR1OTI/AAAAAAAAAdc/12k7ML4k6HY/s1024-Ic42/IMG_5201.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jjodKi975Ps/VqhBppgAqYI/AAAAAAAAAdk/Jtz4Tu_Pt8A/s1024-Ic42/IMG_5217.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-NgvL5qotQ-A/VqhBe4dpfEI/AAAAAAAAAdU/OX7dJrX5JQk/s1...

Maybe the best thing for the lazy, poop on a flat rock and then throw it as far as you can down the hill so I don't have to step in your shit. The bugs in the Red will eat it within a couple days (during the summer) if your diet is alright.