Search found 16 matches

by clausti
Tue May 01, 2012 6:04 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence
Replies: 53
Views: 9943

Re: A soft 12c to 13a for just one number-chasing indulgence

Orange Juice is a really good route on beautiful rock. It goes at .12c, and what most people call the crux is crimping on small holds and highstepping on a gently overhanging face. maybe 15 degrees, tops. rr slab.
by clausti
Wed Mar 21, 2012 10:10 pm
Forum: More climbing!
Topic: Homo Climbtastic convention July 26-29, 2012 New River Gorge
Replies: 24
Views: 8513

Re: Homo Climbtastic convention July 26-29, 2012 New River G

Why hello there Red River Gorge people! Is the Red not gay enough for you? Do you yearn for a crag where you can climb with people who aren't the same gender they were born into? Do you know what the term "breeder" means? Well, do I have an event for you! http://homoclimbtastic.files.wordpress.com/...
by clausti
Fri Oct 21, 2011 7:18 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?
Replies: 198
Views: 121896

Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

I live in Columbus, Ohio and... People from Ohio are the real reason the Red is so overcrowded with gymballs.. I know this is a running joke around here, but most people from Cleveland go to the New, because of drive time and interstate architecture (77 goes straight from Cleveland to the new, basi...
by clausti
Thu Oct 20, 2011 12:20 pm
Forum: Front Page
Topic: PDs at Lode
Replies: 557
Views: 167373

Re: PDs at Lode

Meadows and Artsay, Obviously the perma draws were not removed from the cave because it is okay for 12/13 climbers to hang dog their way up 13's and 14's while it is not okay for 11 climbers to hang dog their way up 12's. :D Yeah, I want to say that too... but I think steepness dictated their choic...
by clausti
Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:02 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?
Replies: 198
Views: 121896

Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Actually, there's one more note I'd like to make. One way the "community" can communicate it's values to new climbers? You can open your fucking mouth and say something at the crag. So on my very first trip to the Red, when you could still camp up near Oil Crack Crag, me and a whole group of other c...
by clausti
Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:49 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?
Replies: 198
Views: 121896

Re: The crowds are not going away... So what do we do?

Wanna see less people at your favorite rr crag? TL;DNR: Make things more of a pain in the ass. Long version: - Charge more for camping. Not because it will discourage dirtbags, who are actually a community resource for transmitting the culture of what is appropriate, because of their continuity, but...
by clausti
Mon Oct 17, 2011 6:57 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Speak Up!
Replies: 125
Views: 27908

Re: Speak Up!

Well... big shout out to Paul Nelson as well (camhead on here) for a redpoint of Welcome to Ol' Kentuck this past Sunday. His first 5.13 trad line. Having been conscripted into hiking up to Pebble Beach a handful of times myself to belay my partner on the prodge, I had worked on the .11cR seam/face ...
by clausti
Tue May 24, 2011 10:46 am
Forum: Front Page
Topic: Important Info! Next weekend at Muir Valley
Replies: 18
Views: 131639

Re: Important Info! Next weekend at Muir Valley

Oh, and Hey- here is the link to donate to Friends of Muir Valley.

Just read the thread about the stats for last weekend, and realized we hadn't sent and money for a while. Time to send some. So in case anyone else wants a handy-dandy link...

http://www.friendsofmuirvalley.org/index.php?page=6
by clausti
Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:03 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: blue tick marks
Replies: 139
Views: 64889

Re: blue tick marks

So, we were climbing at Bibliotech on Saturday. One of our crew asked about beta on a route to me, and I jokingly yelled up, "do you want me to put some blue tickmarks up there for you?" A kid next to us heard this, and said "I have some blue chalk!" He must have seen the confused look that I gave ...
by clausti
Tue Apr 20, 2010 12:36 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Accident at Darkside sat.
Replies: 105
Views: 51815

I haven't spoken in this thread yet, so I'll preface these remarks with my best wishes and strongest hopes for Mike's recovery. He sounds like an amazing guy, and a fighter. Excellent advice. I still have a concern about the proficiency of local dispatchers. A few nights ago, a caller reported to 91...
by clausti
Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:32 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Hey Sandbagger
Replies: 156
Views: 21005

SCIN wrote:The Undertow Wall at the Lode had six 5.13 lines in 1998. Guess how many it has now? Three. As Lurk said, it's recalibration. Undertow was re calibrated and nobody squealed because it was needed.
IF
-nobody squealed when it was needed.

AND
-ppl are 'squealing' now.

THEN....
by clausti
Mon Sep 21, 2009 11:16 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Manifest Destiny 12a
Replies: 43
Views: 9480

clif wrote:hey, i wasn't looking to stir up the grade debate as just visualize how shorter people make the move.
cross over. then, don't let go while climbing upwards.
by clausti
Mon May 11, 2009 2:45 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Dogleg
Replies: 69
Views: 12184

512OW wrote:I agree that shorter people have the mechanical advantage. And frankly, we're smarter.

However, tall people whining is even more retarded than short people whining.
emphasis added.

I'm sorry, though- did you seriously just put yourself in the category of "shorter people"? really?
by clausti
Tue May 05, 2009 9:53 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Unsolicited Advice Part III: How to get Better at Climbing
Replies: 31
Views: 7186

Re: Unsolicited Advice Part III: How to get Better at Climbi

By the time she's done [a ton of 5.11's and a couple .12a's], the 12b will be a piece of cake. so, here's a question for ya.... what would you recommend to someone with a pretty wide pyramid in .11's and a couple .12a's for the season... and the season before that..... and the season before that......
by clausti
Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:28 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Unsolicited Advice Part II: Goals and Weaknesses
Replies: 26
Views: 6013

I just want to know why everytime there is a negative statement it always include the word "women or girls"?? I heard many men also saying I would like to do this climb because the crux is low and my endurance is low right now...but it is OK for a guy to make that comment. How about saying I heard ...