Search found 294 matches

by camhead
Thu Apr 03, 2014 5:40 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Draw Taken off Far From God
Replies: 5
Views: 1694

Re: Draw Taken off Far From God

Because I'm weak and was tired I didn't get back up the route later to clean them... In the universal laws of bootying ethics, it is pretty well understood that if you leave gear because of your own ineptitude, it is fair game. They weren't project draws, you didn't leave them because of a traumati...
by camhead
Tue Mar 26, 2013 12:26 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Cops setting up checkpoints
Replies: 56
Views: 7824

Re: Cops setting up checkpoints

We saw a small group of climbers pulled out of their vehicle because they did not have an updated insurance card. They yanked the license plate off the car and sent in a tow truck. What a pain in the ass. Just wanted to let you all know to be prepared with the right documents because you will have ...
by camhead
Thu Mar 21, 2013 12:20 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Nice Outside Online arcticle on Muir Valley
Replies: 144
Views: 11352

Re: Nice Outside Online arcticle on Muir Valley

Not trying to be critical of you (especially since you give back when you climb there), but I've never understood the "How dare they attempt to make climbing convenient or safe" attitude about developing new areas. Damn, double post on here. Jordan, just to clarify, I don't think that there is ANYT...
by camhead
Thu Mar 21, 2013 12:13 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Nice Outside Online arcticle on Muir Valley
Replies: 144
Views: 11352

Re: Nice Outside Online arcticle on Muir Valley

But have you done Dreamthiever, Renegade, Tradisfaction, No Bones about It, and In a Pinch, Paul? And seriously, some of the best 5.12-5.13 sport routes in the Red are found at the Sanctuary, Midnight Surf, Solarium, and (shameless plug) Ivory Tower... Yeah, I agree, Dustin, there are amazing route...
by camhead
Thu Mar 21, 2013 9:59 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Nice Outside Online arcticle on Muir Valley
Replies: 144
Views: 11352

Re: Nice Outside Online arcticle on Muir Valley

If you don't like Miur, don't climb there, keep your mouth shut and if nothing else you can be happy there aren't 30,000 more people every year at the other areas you enjoy climbing at. Yes, this.^^^ I'm not a huge fan of a lot of Muir's (not Miur, unless you are thinking about Miuras? Those shoes ...
by camhead
Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:22 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?
Replies: 16
Views: 2622

Re: When are we going to see trad 5.15c?

graniteclimber wrote: Could there be a 15c crack? It's hard to imagine... maybe a long fingers roof?
Yuji put up a v15 that follows a crack/seam in Japan.

http://vimeo.com/56587222#
by camhead
Mon Feb 11, 2013 10:54 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Johnny & Alex Trail Day - Your Opinion Needed
Replies: 34
Views: 3217

Re: Johnny & Alex Trail Day - Your Opinion Needed

I'd say water bottle, unless you manage to get a deal on those Mountain Hardware synthy shirts.
by camhead
Fri Feb 08, 2013 9:01 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Likely Recall of 4th Edition RRG Guide
Replies: 14
Views: 2147

Re: Likely Recall of 4th Edition RRG Guide

Sounds like a lot of problems with these new editions; there was also an error on my sole glory-photo, which made it look like I have a bald spot on top of my head. A mass recall and some photoshop work would be pretty easy to fix this.
by camhead
Tue Jan 22, 2013 10:39 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Favorite SE bouldering location?
Replies: 20
Views: 3085

Re: Favorite SE bouldering location?

The NRG's bouldering development is exploding right now, too. I may check it out, if I ever get sick of the roped climbing there.
by camhead
Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:25 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: true story
Replies: 94
Views: 10242

Re: true story

It is very common for a leader that's fallen to simply lower to a spot where they can rest without tension from the rope, then try again. If they succeed they feel like they've "freed" the pitch. Very few people ever had a problem with calling a pitch lead in this manner anything but a successful f...
by camhead
Sun Dec 16, 2012 3:48 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: true story
Replies: 94
Views: 10242

Re: true story

great stuff guys! so larry just thinking Aloud here..in theory one could lead to within say 5-10 feet of the top of a pitch and fall. they would then lower and literally top rope all but that final section. this would give them the ffa yet some dude who fully top roped it the day before was not rec...
by camhead
Sun Dec 16, 2012 2:27 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: true story
Replies: 94
Views: 10242

Re: true story

Little known fact: the "FFA" of the Phoenix crack in Yosemite (1976) by Ray Jardine (inventor of friends) is widely hailed as the first 5.13 route, at least in the US. However, Jardine never freed this line by today's standards; he did the whole thing clean on toprope a few times, and did all the mo...
by camhead
Sun Dec 16, 2012 12:34 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: true story
Replies: 94
Views: 10242

Re: true story

SCIN wrote:Climber 1 got the FA but climber 2 gets his name in the guidebook as the FA.

So, you better change this, then, right?

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... te&id=2131
by camhead
Tue Dec 11, 2012 2:28 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Ground fall 11-21-12
Replies: 39
Views: 10673

Re: Ground fall 11-21-12

http://www.rockandice.com/news/2383-john-long-injured-in-groundfall I'm not sure what that has to do with this accident. JL forgot to complete his bowline. Pretty simple. As for the disproportionate amount of accidents that have happened with the Cinch, I think it comes down to people new to that p...
by camhead
Mon Dec 10, 2012 2:21 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Ground fall 11-21-12
Replies: 39
Views: 10673

Re: Ground fall 11-21-12

My belayer was using a cinch, not a gri gri, and I was climbing on a 10.1 mm rope. At this point I can't say whether it was user error or device failure; I haven't seen my equipment since the fall so when I'm all healed up I figure I'll check out the belay device and do some investigating. Whoa, gl...