Search found 795 matches

by Shamis
Wed Oct 17, 2012 4:44 pm
Forum: Trad
Topic: Who's line is it?
Replies: 237
Views: 19508

Re: Who's line is it?

Jeff wrote:Image
love it
by Shamis
Tue Oct 09, 2012 11:21 am
Forum: Trad
Topic: By the numbers.
Replies: 63
Views: 8300

Re: By the numbers.

I climb good routes. If said routes have no bolts, then I bring gear.

Redpoint:
sport 12d
trad 11c

Onsight:
sport 12a
trad 10d
by Shamis
Tue Sep 04, 2012 1:23 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: lateral epicondylitis
Replies: 9
Views: 2849

Re: lateral epicondylitis

Blue Flexbar and bicep stretching worked for me. And of course, long slow warmups on things 2-3 full grades below what you are setting out to do.
by Shamis
Tue Aug 14, 2012 5:44 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Trying to understand the bolter's mind...
Replies: 51
Views: 5079

Re: Trying to understand the bolter's mind...

A nice gradual warmup dramatically increases my success rate on harder routes (and dramatically reduces my injury rate). If I want to do a 12 that day, I typically warm up with 3 routes between 9+ and 11b. A 10a at a crag full of 12's might be worth having even if it is kind of shitty.
by Shamis
Fri Jul 13, 2012 1:58 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Fear of Falling
Replies: 32
Views: 3617

Re: Fear of Falling

wear a helmet. That might help. The only serious danger apart from landing on a ledge or hitting the ground is flipping upside down and hitting your head. Wearing a helmet significantly reduces the risk of anything bad happening during a fall, and it might give you the extra confidence required to t...
by Shamis
Tue May 29, 2012 1:46 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Decking at the Lode...
Replies: 166
Views: 17561

Re: Decking at the Lode...

Pretty sure the video caribe posted is the only known failure case for the SUM. And my guess is that even with the brake hand on you would fail in that mode because there is almost zero friction.
by Shamis
Thu May 24, 2012 12:58 pm
Forum: Training/Nutrition/Injuries
Topic: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13
Replies: 16
Views: 5154

Re: Do you need to boulder to climb 5.13

I would think most 5.13 climbers don't have any trouble with v6.

Training endurance is probably sufficient for the red though.
by Shamis
Tue May 22, 2012 11:16 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Lead Belay
Replies: 26
Views: 4278

Re: Lead Belay

There are many ways to be a bad belayer, periodically looking down to rest your neck really isn't one of them. I suppose if you are deaf, or perhaps at a typical sport crag filled with barking dogs and blaring radios then you might have a case.
by Shamis
Tue May 22, 2012 5:43 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: Lead Belay
Replies: 26
Views: 4278

Re: Lead Belay

Sport climbers are pussies. Go do a long trad route sometime and you will realize that: it's common to not have sight of the climber for long periods of time, and you can't give a 'soft' catch when you're in a hanging belay. Should a belayer watch you when possible? When near the ground, certainly t...
by Shamis
Mon May 21, 2012 11:09 am
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Approach shoes
Replies: 46
Views: 7762

Re: Approach shoes

I haven't been able to find any decent approach shoes with good support (for flat feet). I do find most La Sportiva shoes to be pretty awesome though.

I did once do the descent from the top of Taquitz in flip flops. I wouldn't really recommend it though.
by Shamis
Thu May 17, 2012 2:15 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: R/X sport routes
Replies: 50
Views: 7112

Re: R/X sport routes

Unless of course, a bolt fails.
by Shamis
Thu May 17, 2012 1:37 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: R/X sport routes
Replies: 50
Views: 7112

Re: R/X sport routes

Putting up new routes with no bolts is admirable from a leave no trace perspective. But once you start bolting, deliberately making the route dangerous is a perversion of ethics.
by Shamis
Wed May 09, 2012 5:38 pm
Forum: Sport
Topic: What counts as an attempt?
Replies: 26
Views: 3481

Re: What counts as an attempt?

If you never weight the rope it's legit. Downclimbing and starting over is legit.
by Shamis
Wed May 09, 2012 4:40 pm
Forum: Climbing Community
Topic: Advice to new climbers
Replies: 39
Views: 5695

Re: Advice to new climbers

Seeing as how Rick does lots of search and rescue stuff it seems pretty likely that he actually knows somebody that does the same at the gunks and was on site after the incident which would explain why he seems to know what nobody else on the Internets does.